Thanks for the info. I believe I am on track now. I may make a wood shim for under the tang flat. Next I'll just bring the tang flats down to meet barrel flats.
Thanks for the info. I believe I am on track now. I may make a wood shim for under the tang flat. Next I'll just bring the tang flats down to meet barrel flats.
if yer talkin' about a small space under the tang when lookin' at it from the front it's nothin' to even concern yerself with. if you want some extra ork you could fix the one big flaw in the Great Plains Rifle design, that awful fish belly on the bottom of the buttstock 'tween the triggerguard & the buttplate.
Or put a nice lace up pad on it! I actually took my dremel tool and rounded the sharp edge on top of the Crescent butt plate, when i say it was sharp, that is an understatement!! Mine was dangerously knife edge sharp, even though i put this pad on, i was afraid the sharp *** would cut through the new Pad.
Attachment 191547
I am not really concerned about the small gap under the tang flat just seeing what is standard practice with fitting tang and barrel. I did find a small gap (after installing barrel and tang into stock) on the mating surfaces of the tang and breech plug. I ended up taking a little bit of wood off of the tang mortise (using inletting black) and the tang and barrel fit right in and the gap was closed. Now I have some more proud wood to remove around the tang....then i just need to fit butt plate to stock as there is a noticeable gap where the top of the but plate meets the comb...then hopefully move onto finish sanding, staining and sealing. I have just about got all the hardware Plum Browned, except the trigger guard. Not sure if I'll rust brown or Plumb Brown the barrel. I like the Plum brown color, not sure if the cold rust brown will look the same or similar....never used these products before. I did get Track's Tried and True cold rust brown...undecided. It's coming along quite nicley.
This is an old picture from forum member obssd1958, I totally understand the 'above the bicep hold' with the Crescent butt plate, but in my opinion they are TOTAL GARBAGE for my use! I can just picture a 'heat of the moment' Elk situation that i had to pull up REAL QUICK at some odd angle, 'BANG' and end up like this guy!
Attachment 191548
Last edited by 54bore; 03-24-2017 at 09:08 AM.
Yep, I let the shoulder pad slip a little one time and cut a nice line in my shoulder. Didn't help that it was 450gn PP with 80gn powder
Next step for mine is a grinding wheel and leather butt pad.
Rates right up at the top of dumbest designs i have ever seen, the top of the Lyman Great Plains butt plate is like a sharp knife. Mine is NOT anymore, plus a lace up pad.
Attachment 191695
Finally got the tang fitted today and brought the proud wood down. Reassembled the gun and pencil marked areas of proud wood to bring down a dite more. Tested triggers, and they are just fine. I stripped the rear trigger guard screw out. Seems the screw is just long enough to bite the wood and strip, so just need a longer screw. The ram rod is a tad tight going in and out so I'll sand er down. I'll also chamfer down the ram rod entry hole in the stock as it is catching as it enters.
shove a toothpick into the stock wood hole for that stripped trigger guard screw, break off the toothpick, screw in the trigger guard. the ramrod ferrule ends should get pinned with cut off brass nails. to make ramming easier by not having to flip the rod around during the load, i grind off the rammer's belled mouth parallel to the rod, put the cleaning jag on the ferruled end, and send the ramming end into the stock. then it's just up and down during the load process, and no rod flipping.
I'll give the toothpick ago. Got the barrel Plum Browned with three coats the last couple nights. Came out decent. Will now finish up sanding and prepping the stock. I have LMF American Walnut stain, should I use it straight any go with one coat or dilute and go with one and see how it turns out. Not looking for an overly dark dark finish but want wood character to stand out a bit.
FrontierMuzzleloading, YEP I very much agree! BUT, had this been ANYTHING besides a sharp Crescent butt plate I can't see something like this happening? The Crescent butt plate reminds me of a Bisley or Plow Revolver grip frame, some can shoot them and some can't, i for one can NOT shoot a Bisley grip frame well, they just don't fit me right, but i can shoot a Plow Grip REALLY well UNLESS it is a Square back trigger guard (Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 Magnum with Square back trigger guard bites my middle knuckle everytime) Point being, not all of us are the same. My dad liked the feel of the Crescent butt plate on my New Lyman Great Plains Hunter Rifle and said if it were his rifle he would not change anything about it, I on the other hand DESPISED it, it was the first thing i changed.
I know how to hold and shoot a Crescent butt plate, if i were a target shooter only, period correct character, etc. i would be perfectly fine with one, but my passion is hunting Big Game, My fear of the Crescent butt plate is 'what if' i jumped a bull elk and i was in a 'bad spot' contorted, twisted whatever it be? And in the heat of the moment I didn't mount the gun idealy and pulled the trigger, I definitely don't wanna end up like the guy in the picture above, i would rather go get on my elk and not have to 'pick the stock out of my shoulder'
Last edited by 54bore; 03-30-2017 at 12:09 AM.
that little boo-boo in the picture don't look life-threatenin' to me. I believe I'd risk it for a shot on a big bull elk.
LOL! I would to bubba IN A HEARTBEAT!! But i figure i can prevent it from even being a thought by doing this
Attachment 192160
Fit the butt plate a little better today and brought the wood down flush. Finished sanding stock and am on my 4th wiskering which should be it. Hope to stain it later tonight. I pinned the ferrules on the ram rod. Sander down the rod a bit until it slid in and out smoother, then wrapped some 1/4" wet cotton rope around the rod and took a torch to it and got a nice spiral look to it. Hit it with some 0000 steel wool and stained and sealed it up....looks real nice! Working on polishing trigger guard which is my least favorite part of this kit, I'm not gonna bring it to a 600 grit finish as I like the look of the plum brown on a rougher finish. I drifted in the front sight and rear sight. Put two coats of Plum brown on the rear as it was to bright, wanted it to match barrel color. Installed ramrod pipes and vent liner. She's a coming along quite nice!
man, yer puttin' in a whole heapin' buncha work on the GPR, and it sounds like it's coming out well for ya ... Great! but we need pics!!
in the meanwhile i got me yet another GPR .54 kit gun. does the fun ever end? h3ll no!
Well I figur if I wanna put the $ into a totw bucks county kit I should take my time with this one. Only working on it a little at a time due to life getting in the way. I'll post a pic of the finished gun. Put one coat of lmf aw on it this afternoon. I may try one more coat to darken it up a bit. rfd sounds like you gotta lot of kits to build. Lol...I'm already thinking of a pistol or another rifle kit.
any stain is gonna change hue and contrast when hit with most any kinda clear - before using more stain, clear up part of the barrel channel to see what it'll look like and see if more stain is needed.
yeah, i sure have fun with these cheap but darned good guns. plus the wife appreciates i ain't spending time in bars with loose women.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |