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Thread: Midway sale on the Lyman GP's ...

  1. #121
    Boolit Master



    rfd's Avatar
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    Here's a link to an excellent article in Muzzle Blasts that you might find of interest with regards to yer ignition issues ...

    http://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives.../mbo44-3.shtml

    Also, I'll add - yer rifle has an ante-chamber and if it starts to build up with crud it will kill ignition pronto because it obfuscates the touch hole or mitigates the powder charge. It must get cleaned out and be left dry. I use a .32 bronze brush with a patch wrapped around it, work it in good with a moist (not wet) solution of whatever (including just plain water) and follow up with a dry patch or two.

  2. #122
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    rfd that's a good read! I believe I have identified that I have a soft frizzen as I have orange sparks, need to clean better both the bore and then pan, as I did notice wet black goo in it. I did notice my flint was getting gooy/black and had to be wiped off. There are a few more things I have to check on the lock to see what else might be going on.

  3. #123
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    So I am pondering the idea of removing the frizzen, sanding down the face and then heat the and quench in oil.....Plan B.....spend the $175 for the replacement L&R lock from TOTW. RFD....the article you mentioned said that a belt sander could be used for the frizzen face, I have an 80 grit belt, I am wondering if this is too aggressive. It's not a lot of surface area to sand I might just do it by hand with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Any thoughts?

  4. #124
    Boolit Master



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    Jim Kibler (gunmaker extraordinare):
    I just polish them as hardened. Sometimes I just use stones, but other times especially for a rough casting I have used a sanding disc for an air grinder to get the two big angled flats roughed out. Depending on who made it you may be able to file the pan cover. Typically with a Chambers lock only part of the pan cover is hardened to the point where it can't be filed. I believe he has mentioned before that he heats the frizzen face with a torch and doesn't attempt to heat the pan cover to a point where it will harden when quenched. Naturally some of it does get hardened, but not the whole thing.

  5. #125
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    Thanks, will give it a try

  6. #126
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    So yesterday I took the frizzen off, sanded down the face to remove the gouges, then heated the frizzen to a cherry red and oil quenched it. Cleaned face off and reassembled. I cocked her back and pulled the trigger. I got ok orange sparks and a gouge on the frizzen where the flint truck. Rather annoyed at this point but I guess I like problem solving. I tried flipping the flint over, tried a new flint etc and still getting ok orange sparks. I put some 2f in the pan and got a flash. I am new to this game...I read rfd's article for troubleshooting flintlock problems. Should I be getting white hot sparks? Should my frizzen be getting all gouged up? I am leaning twords an L&R lock. I know these are kit guns so maybe not the best quality materials or parts. I feel like the frizzen is just not hard enough, most likely accast part.

  7. #127
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    Anyone headed to the Dixon Gun Works fare the weeken of the 28th, Kenton PA. I'm going

  8. #128
    Boolit Master



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    while white hot is perhaps better than orange hot, all that matters is that the pan powder will touch off and send heat down the touch hole to set off the main charge. i have no issues with orange hot sparks of hammer steel metal. i find it best to use 'fine' english flints - thin ones with razor sharp cutting edges - that will strike the hammer steel (aka 'frizzen') at least 2/3rds up top. in the best of all worlds, when the flint is at half cock it should be near touching the frizzen or about 1/8" away. the flint should end up beak down and near the pan but away from the touch hole volcano gases that will want to erode that fine edge. keep it all clean of bp residue - frizzen, frizzen pan cover, pan, flint edge, touch hole picked.

    as to that hammer steel hardness, maybe it does need rehardening or resurfacing ... however, if yer getting consistent pan ignition (and you can test this as many times as ya like without a load in the chamber, without going afield or to the range), then there really is no problem.

  9. #129
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    Well its sounds as though I am doing everything right that you have mentioned. Next range session I will do a better job cleaning before each shot to include the anti chamber. I do need to buy a .32 cal bronze brush to get that area of the barrel cleaner. I am using TOTW English flints of the proper size, and placing them in the jaws with leather, flint bevel down. I may try setting it a tad farther back in the jaws to allow more space from frizzen at half cock. If the range wasn't an hour away i'd be there more often. Should I be getting gouges on the frizzen where the flint strikes?

  10. #130
    Boolit Master



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    the GPR ante-chamber is .336" in diameter and 1.058" in length. i use a .32 bronze brush with a 2" arsenal cotton patch over its nose. in a pinch a .22 patched brush will do as well.

    there shouldn't be gouges on the hammer steel face, and that'd be an indication it's too soft and needs surface hardening. i did that decades ago with 'kasenite', which is no longer available. i bought some 'cherry red' (kasenite substitute) but haven't used it yet. check out youtube for both.

  11. #131
    Boolit Master duckey's Avatar
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    Ive seen a video on the tube that used cherry red, rather simple. Well thanks for the help.

  12. #132
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  13. #133
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    there is more to understand about a flinter than a percussion gun, but the learning curve is not steep and the deep satisfaction of such a reliable gun makes smacking critters or paper or steel so much more Fun.
    So True!
    The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not
    "Thomas Jefferson"

  14. #134
    Boolit Master



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    ignition shakedown range visit #2 for the latest GPR .50 "screwdriver kit" gun. i cast up a buncha .490 balls, lubed up some .010" cotton patch strips with gato feo, and used swiss 3f down the tube (52 grains) and in the pan. the touch hole liner needs future fiddling (no surprise) and required getting fed a bit from the pan for consistency. every other shot or so was a dry no-ball shot, just checking ignition. no fouling control, super easy loading, not bad accuracy off the bench at 25 yards with some sight adjustments. ignition with a fuller english flint was good.





    dull flints suk big time! An old "common" (double edged) gun flint with many dozens of good firings finally lost its edge, After 3 failures I flipped it over to its second edge, which was also a tad worn. After 2 failures I had enuf and swapped it out for a new flint that wouldn't spark on its first flight and required a bit of knapping. Note that when I brushed the ultra tiny knapped flint shards off the bench I got a nice 1/4" cut on the pinky. Flint can be surgically sharp, beware! After that, she fired every time. Life is still good.

    Last edited by rfd; 08-03-2017 at 07:22 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check