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Thread: Gas check making

  1. #41
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    Springfield0612's Avatar
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    Got my Freechex 3 .30 cal on saturday opened it on Sunday. Ran out and bought a guillotine paper cutter for $5(used) and a roll of .010 aluminum flashing. I cranked out 300ish in no time. Had to make a wood "adapter" for my drill press but she's smooth now!

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  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy bpatterson84's Avatar
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    I have a concern about these aluminum checks. Aluminum oxidizes and forms aluminum oxide, which is extremely hard and abrasive. It's actually used in higher grades of fine sandpapers. Is there a source of copper sheeting or flashing that can be used successfully?

  3. #43
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    How long would it take for the checks to oxidize? And wouldn't there be a film of lube on the check after it has been sized? Sometimes I think people overthink these things. I have a FC II and found that folded over Pepsi cans make great checks. I bought the .45 cal check maker and forgot to tell Charlie that it was for a revolver. He sent me a smaller mandrel, no charge. As I like to experiment, I tried the checks on my .44 boolits. They worked just fine.
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpatterson84 View Post
    I have a concern about these aluminum checks. Aluminum oxidizes and forms aluminum oxide, which is extremely hard and abrasive. It's actually used in higher grades of fine sandpapers. Is there a source of copper sheeting or flashing that can be used successfully?
    Yes there are many sources for copper, in fact I just gave some away in a PIF.
    But Aluminum isn't a concern, There have been many discussions here about this, a "advanced" search will turn them up, and will have detailed explanations why oxides are not a concern.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  5. #45
    In Remembrance
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    I would get some .014 to make 30 caliber gas checks.



    Quote Originally Posted by Springfield0612 View Post
    Got my Freechex 3 .30 cal on saturday opened it on Sunday. Ran out and bought a guillotine paper cutter for $5(used) and a roll of .010 aluminum flashing. I cranked out 300ish in no time. Had to make a wood "adapter" for my drill press but she's smooth now!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Yes there are many sources for copper, in fact I just gave some away in a PIF.
    But Aluminum isn't a concern, There have been many discussions here about this, a "advanced" search will turn them up, and will have detailed explanations why oxides are not a concern.
    Agreed. And if it's powder coated or even lubed it wouldn't be an issue anyway.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sagebrush7 View Post
    I would get some .014 to make 30 caliber gas checks.
    I got the sample pack from vulcan checks and anytjing over .0135 smears aluminum inside my sizing die. Once payday comes Im gonna order some .013 flasing.

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  8. #48
    Boolit Master

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    I use a paper cutter to make my copper, aluminum or brass strips. I set up my burnsomatic torch to anneal them. I hold one end with pliers and pass them through the flame slowly til it changes color. as I get near the end, I grab the front end with another set of pliers and drag the other end through the flame. It doesn't take long at all. You can anneal a lot of strips in a very short time.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    I just wipe down a large cut piece of flashing with soap and put a torch to the whole thing. When the soap turns black it's done. Since the metal is now softer cutting the strips is easier.

  10. #50
    Boolit Mold
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    Good afternoon New member here. We used to anneal T6 aluminum be using an Oxy/Acetylene torch. First thing we would do is ignite the torch without the Oxy, deposit the soot onto the aluminum, add the Oxy to the torch then heat the aluminum up until the soot was burned off. That would return the aluminum to "O" condition. Aluminum is tough, there is no indication of it getting to hot, it just melts. As for the information here, Good Lord I am glad to finally find a place like this. I was bequeathed my Grandfathers Winchester in .32WS. As finding box ammo nowadays is near impossible, the only solution is to make your own. Now, if I can find some primers......

  11. #51
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    Primers? I remember those. You used to be able to walk in gun shops and get those, or order in bulk online.
    Man.. Those were the days.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    Primers? I remember those. You used to be able to walk in gun shops and get those, or order in bulk online.
    Man.. Those were the days.
    If you wanted to take ammunition out of the hands of the "People" wouldn't this one component pretty well do it?

  13. #53
    Boolit Master


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    Yup... Powder can be made..albiet harder.. Primers... Much much harder.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoked turkey View Post
    I have found Patmarlins CheckMaker to be a superb tool. His checks stay on my boolits and they are nice. I am still trying to find the soft aluminum needed for the CheckMaker to really do its job. It is a little slower way to make checks, but I enjoy the process and I am not trying to make a years worth in 30 minutes so it is right down my alley.

    Pat makes a good tool(I have some), but it is a hassle being a 2-step process, those little discs are a PITA to handle. Check out Matteson's little machine shop, he has a FB page. Make a nice one step tool, and Price isn't bad. I think ~$80 including shipping. I much prefer Dave's version personally

    https://www.facebook.com/Daves-Mini-...5005990253152/

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    If you properly Powder Coat you don't need gas checks any more than you need to gas check a copper jacketed bullet. However, if you have gas check molds accuracy should improve with a properly installed gas check since it would create a flat & perpendicular base covering the bullet's base imperfections. if the the gas check is not properly installed the whole point is moot.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check