Gas check making

[tankgunner59]

What is the minimum equipment and cost to start making gas checks?

[Soundguy]

One of the many types of whackamole style punch and mandrel tools, plus the material.

Look at freechecks, etc.

[kmrra]

http://www.freechex.net/

[dragon813gt]

Charlie just made some tools but he's effectively not making them anymore. I was surprised to hear he made some.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

one of patmarlins' dies ($84) and your reloading press.

http://www.patmarlins.com/product-category/checkmaker/

[smoked turkey]

I have found Patmarlins CheckMaker to be a superb tool. His checks stay on my boolits and they are nice. I am still trying to find the soft aluminum needed for the CheckMaker to really do its job. It is a little slower way to make checks, but I enjoy the process and I am not trying to make a years worth in 30 minutes so it is right down my alley.

[iMigraine]

In the same boat, trying to decide between CheckMaker & FreeChex III. FCIII looks fast but then you do have to buy an arbor press. CM looks slower but works in your reloading press. Kinda leaning towards CM since I'm not a high volume shooter. Just wondering if the CM is harder to center the punch out discs in the die when you cup them?

[dragon813gt]

Do you want to handle small flat discs of metal? This should be your deciding factor. W/ a Freechex it's a one step process. Insert metal in tool and out comes a finished check. W/ the checkmaker you punch out a disc. And then cup it in a separate step. Handling small finished 22 cal checks is enough aggravation. I can't imagine handling the discs. W/ larger calibers this isn't as big of a deal. They both produce checks that work which is what matters.

[smoked turkey]

I have the CM. The aluminum I currently have is too hard for my .50 cal CM die in my Rock Chucker press. I am using it but it is hard to cut the disc. Even with the hard aluminum, the check forming operation is a piece of cake with the CM tool. the check fits my Accurate 51-520GG cast perfectly. The check is secure on the shank and is flat on the bottom. Reason is Pat worked with me to make a good fitting check on my boolits. He did a nice job on it. I am not a high volume shooter either. I don't have room on my bench for an arbor press. I wanted to use my RC press, and I don't mind the extra time to do the second step in the process. I will say that handling a small disc for a 22 caliber would be very tedious as compared to my bigger .50 caliber. If you have rifle like my .505 Gibbs which takes a non standard check size, then I highly recommend both Tom at Accurate for the mold and Pat at Patmarlins for the check maker. You just need to use "soft" aluminum for the process.

[2ndAmendmentNut]

Another recommendation for Pat Marlin's check making dies. I have one of his 35cal plain base gas check makers. Beautifully made and ingenious little tool. The ability to add a check to a plain base style boolit really opens up your options and mold versatility.

Currently I am making checks from soda cans, but am learning that not all aluminum cans are equal. Some brands like Red Bull seem thick and malleable while others like generic sodas seem brittle and tear easily.


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[iMigraine]

Well I don't have any intentions on making gas checks for .22 caliber. Decided last night to order Pat's CM for 7.62x39 for my Russian SKS. Looking to reload for Marlin 336 30-30 as well. My hope is that the 7.62x39 CM might work for both calibers; if not, I'll be ordering another CM for .30 cal once I figure it all out.

[2ndAmendmentNut]

A 30cal CM should work for both calibers. After all a 7.62 is a 30cal. I might just let Mr. Marlin know you intend to use it in both 30-30 and 7.62x39.


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[JonB_in_Glencoe]

In the same boat, trying to decide between CheckMaker & FreeChex III. FCIII looks fast but then you do have to buy an arbor press. CM looks slower but works in your reloading press. Kinda leaning towards CM since I'm not a high volume shooter. Just wondering if the CM is harder to center the punch out discs in the die when you cup them?

I've owned 4 of the patmarlins CheckMakers, I think they are an excellent design and they are beautifully machined. The way the tool is designed, The disc fits tightly into the cup forming die, and once "seated", it can't move. But with that said, when you drop/place the disc, if it goes sideways/diagonal and you form it, the GC will be very offset/lop-sided and is junk. If you watch the GC as it's placed, and when it goes sideways/diagonal, just "tap" the cup forming die with your finger, and the vibrations will usually move the disc, so it is "seated". Btw the way, the cup forming die is mounted in the ram (like a shell holder). This becomes second nature, and only needs to be mentioned to someone who have never used or seen the die...Much like FL sizing brass cases, it you don't fully insert a brass case into the shell holder, it'll likely get crushed..It's that obvious.

[Loudy13]

I bought the FCIII mostly due to not wanting to tie up a press when I wanted to make gaschecks, so with 113.00 for the FCIII and an arbor press that was given to me for Christmas it was relatively cheap to get started making checks. Made 2000 .30 cal checks so far and it works great.

[Dan Cash]

You fellows having problems with hard aluminum need to anneal the stuff. Heat it a little with a torc, gas burner or even an electric plate. Tain't rocket science.

[2ndAmendmentNut]

You fellows having problems with hard aluminum need to anneal the stuff. Heat it a little with a torc, gas burner or even an electric plate. Tain't rocket science.

Is there a color you go for? Is the temperature the same as brass? I'll have to try this.


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[Dragonheart]

Is there a color you go for? Is the temperature the same as brass? I'll have to try this.


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I wipe a thin coat of liquid hand soap on the metal and heat the aluminum with a propane torch until the soap turns a uniform black.

As far as making Gas Checks I don't think you can beat the Freechex tools, especially when you consider it's a one punch operation. The minimum investment is a tool and and arbor press. If you want to see the Freechex IV in operation check out this video: https://youtu.be/R5sIuzphTEk

[Retumbo]

I sold my pat marlin's and made myself a copy of the free chex. As for annealing, I throw a handful at a time in my lead pot. Couple minutes later I scoop them out. Get the odd one with some lead on it but most are lead free. My .30 gas checks work on all my Lee 30 caliber cast bullets

[smoked turkey]

I need a little more information than I have regarding how to successfully anneal the aluminum strips I have. A few days ago I used the search function here that took me to a thread that said to make a line down the center of an aluminum strip using a permanent black "sharpie" marker. Then use a propane torch on the strip until the black line disappears. It didn't work for me as the aluminum was still hard after the heat. Dan, I would appreciate it if you could let me know your method of annealing as I have a fair amount of .014 aluminum that needs softened a bit before I can use it. I did see the tip in post # 17 using liquid soap. I will give that a try also. Thanks for any help.

[GrayTech]

Have you tried rolling up a strip and putting it in the molten lead for a while?