I decided to start a new thread, because 1)We have several threads on this subject going now, 2)I didn't want to hijack another thread, and 3) Some of you have generously donated to the site here as "payment" for dies I have made that fit your machine, and I didn't want there to be any doubt about what you got or will get should you decide to get more of these from me.
First of all, I use O-1 tool steel for these dies exclusively. I won't use 1018, 1040, cold-rolled, hot-rolled, or any other "junk" or mild steel that I could probably come up with for free. When you order a die from me, you know exactly what you're getting: O-1 tool steel. Why? Because this is the time-tested medium. My goal is to provide you with a factory or near-factory quality die, and I can't do this unless I use the right stuff. Also, a die made from O-1 is easily hardened. The advantage of hardening is that the die is more wear- and ding-resistant. The disadvantage is that it is not as easily modifiable. So, you have your choice; you can harden if you like, or leave annealed. More on this later.
Next, thanks to those of you who have ordered these dies from me, together we have been able to raise a nice chunk of money for the site here. It's great when we can work together and help each other in this way, and I thank you for your support! Also, together we have gotten to use and verify a "new" design, the C-clip or "Buckshot" design. I have now made these dies both with the shoulder and the clip, and the clip design is faster and easier to make. It also works just as well in these hand-operated machines. So you now have a less expensive alternative. That was one of the goals of this entire project, to establish the viability of this design on a larger scale, and I believe we have accomplished this.
Now, about that shoulder. There are obviously many guys who absolutely must have this shoulder, no matter what. Okay, I'm not going to argue the point. Not wanting to shirk a challenge, I decided to make a run of these dies out of 7/8 stock with the shoulder. Yes, it does take longer to make, so yes, they do cost more--$30 vs $22 for the Buckshot design. This is due to having to fit and polish two precision surfaces instead of one--inside AND outside. Yes, that outside dimension AND finish IS critical. That high polish on the factory die isn't just eyewash--it keeps wear in the bore of your alloy sizer press to an absolute minimum. That is why the outside dimension is also critical--you want a slight press fit into the bore, to minimize movement. More than .0005 undersize, and you could have "slop" that will accelerate wear in the bore; add in a less-than-smooth surface to this, and wear will accelerate rapidly.
In sum, my goal is to make a die that is as near-factory quality as I can make it. I can only do this with the right material, and finish work IS required. Unfortunately, this is also what takes the most time. And, I haven't even talked about the time it takes to duplicate factory quality of the bore! Any old rube with a lathe can hack out a useable die in 15 or 20 minutes for these machines, and I include myself in this category. It's the finish work that will set a factory-quality die apart from a rough blank, and this is also why the factory dies may not be as over-priced as you think.
I don't want this post to stretch out too long, so I'll stop here for now. I am always happy to detail how I make these dies, and I can do so here if there is enough interest. Most of my methods can be found right here on the sight, they are a combination of several guys' hints and techniques. I couldn't do it without you! Thanks again for your support!
lathesmith
|
   
   
|
|
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by R.M.
