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Thread: Iron/Steel Mold Care

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I'm an oil advocate for ALL moulds since even brass and aluminum moulds have steel sprue plates and alignment pins.

    I generally use a mix of WD40 as a thinner and a light lubricating oil. After making sure the whole mould is well covered I put boolits back in the cavities so capillary action hold the the oil between boolit and cavity.

    I've never had a mould rust doing this and generally for clean up before casting the mould is simply wiped down with a rag or paper towel, sprue plate lube wiped on under sprue plate and on alignment pins then pre-heat until the sprue plate lube just starts to smoke.

    It works for me and no rust.

    Longbow

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub R. Dupraz's Avatar
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    exact same as "lightman"

    Only I spray with WD-40 first. Never had a problem with it when molds at stored in good air tight 50 cal ammo cans with good seals. Molds are ready to go after a good tooth brush scrub with brake cleaner

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    SE Ohio
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    I started casting 50 years ago. When I bought a new mould it came well wrapped in rust inhibiting paper in a cardboard box. When I finished using it I rewrapped it and put it back in the box. I've never found it necessary to spray or coat the mould for storage. When I started to accumulate used moulds I began purchasing the vapor paper from Brownell's and plastic boxes to put the moulds in. Many years ago I started putting the boxed moulds in large GI ammo or storage containers with an airtight rubber seal. I have yet to find rust on any of my iron moulds. The only time I have replaced the vapor paper is when it gets ripped for use.

    I wrap my aluminum moulds in vapor paper too since the have steel sprue plates, screw etc. I store them in an ammo can also.

    I cringe when I read about spraying moulds with preservatives or coating them with whatever. I remember reading on Castboolits years ago about one fellow who stored his moulds in jars of oil. All that stuff has to be cleaned off before you can cast a boolit. Ohio has never been know for a dry climate and my system has served me well for 50 years. My moulds are ready to go when I take them out of their box. No cleaning or scubbing. Just heat them up and cast boolits.
    Chuck

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    May 2010
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    central texas
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    I use VCI paper to wrap moulds and store in a sealed ammo storage. Careful with the paper as I have read of its emissions attacking scope lenses.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    I give mine a coat of Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. The stuff does not contaminate , does not need to be removed and acts as a mould release . Boolits cast in cavities treated with it want to jump out of the mould. The stuff prevents rust, my moulds stay in an old wood framed , uninsulated , non heated or cooled outbuilding in the Louisiana heat , humidity and drenching rains we have ( got 30 inches in 24 hours one day last August)...not one mould treated with it has rusted.
    I give the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube a five star rating.
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub
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    Dec 2008
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    Western KY
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    Hi George,
    Are your boxes large enough to store the molds with the handles attached?

  7. #27
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    For short term storage I apply a little Kroil.
    For long term storage I use RIG.

    Both of those require degreasing before the mold is used but it's worth the extra work to me.

    Here in the mid-Atlantic states you can watch ferrous metal rust. RIG has never let me down. It may be a bit old school but I've had some bad experiences with rust and don't wish to risk it.

    By the way, I apply the oil or grease while the molds are still warm so there's no possibility of trapping water under the grease.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master




    TexasGrunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    For short term storage I apply a little Kroil.
    For long term storage I use RIG.

    Both of those require degreasing before the mold is used but it's worth the extra work to me.

    Here in the mid-Atlantic states you can watch ferrous metal rust. RIG has never let me down. It may be a bit old school but I've had some bad experiences with rust and don't wish to risk it.

    By the way, I apply the oil or grease while the molds are still warm so there's no possibility of trapping water under the grease.
    I've found you don't have to remove the Kroil. I wipe off the excess and start casting. The first few casts will have wrinkles then you're good to go.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Mar 2011
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    i spay mine with kroil while still warm and then place in a zip sandwich baggie and put back in the RCBS box.never rust

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy

    Ron in PA's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170305_131819.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	105.3 KB 
ID:	189722 I spray ' em with Clenzoil or Ballistol and store in ammo cans.
    A man who is good enough to shed his blood for his country is good enough to be given a square deal afterwards.
    -Theodore Roosevelt

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...2441-Ron-in-PA

  11. #31
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    When did Clenzoil start coming in a white bottle ?

    I need to get out more !

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy

    Ron in PA's Avatar
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    I got the oil years ago from a good friend. The old price on the oil is $ 2.35 ??
    A man who is good enough to shed his blood for his country is good enough to be given a square deal afterwards.
    -Theodore Roosevelt

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...2441-Ron-in-PA

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron in PA View Post
    I got the oil years ago from a good friend. The old price on the oil is $ 2.35 ??
    All of my Clenzoil bottles are black and have higher prices on them .
    Clenzoil is good stuff and replaced "Breakfree CLP" on my shelf years ago.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy
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    Vci bags work for me here in the tropics, Where I live near the volcano, we have 100 % humidity with corrosive volcanic air, and this is about the only way to stop corrosion.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrob692326 View Post
    Vci bags work for me here in the tropics, Where I live near the volcano, we have 100 % humidity with corrosive volcanic air, and this is about the only way to stop corrosion.
    Never heard of Vci bags? I will have to look them up

  16. #36
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    I don't put anything, at all, on my two steel molds in storage or casting. Never had a problem, only a big Lee that wanted some lube on moving parts. This is new to me thou, compared to others

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
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    http://www.polygunbag.com/Images/pol...ndsupplies.gif hers is a link that makes them A smart way to use them is buy the big 50 bmg size and cut off strips of the impregnated plastic and toss them in heavy mylar zip bags used for long term food storage. These bags are non permable and will keep anything in them rust free and ready to use for 5 years. you should be able to get enough strips of vci plastic to preserve well over 100 items with the 50 bmg bags Of course they have regular gun bags too The mylar bags can be found on e bay I like to cut strips of vci plastic and put them in my reloading die boxes and things I know are prone to corrosion. Best of luck.
    Last edited by rrob692326; 04-05-2017 at 10:40 PM.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master




    TexasGrunt's Avatar
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    https://smile.amazon.com/Daubert-Cro...ords=vci+paper

    I bought this roll of VCI paper. For seldom used firearms I wrap them in it. Strips of it also are working quite well in keeping my stuff from rusting here in Texas.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check