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Thread: Table Top Kilns

  1. #1
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    Table Top Kilns

    I have been researching small table top kilns for small annealing and heat treat jobs, I'm curious to hear of anyone's first hand experience with these type of Kilns. I bought a large top load ceramic Kiln but find it a bit big for most jobs and takes too much power and time to get to temp, also doesn't have a PID to control temp, also being top loading makes it ...... well less then ideal to open up at temp as well as loosing a lot of heat in the process so.....

    I see Orville and Pee Wee have just purchase a Paragon and someone else mentioned using a Paragon kiln, I'll be looking forward to hearing about their results, also interested in the EvenHeat Kingpin models or any other similar models one might or should consider.

    I would be looking to use a kiln of this type for annealing brass and heat treating simple O1 or W1 tool steels.

    Thanks

    Brian
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  2. #2
    Boolit Man
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    I just bought a small table top oven for making enamel in , an EFCO 135

  3. #3
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    Mine is a paragon sc3 with a window in the door. Trouble free for about 7 yrs.

    http://www.paragonweb.com/Glass_Kilns.cfm
    " CANCER SUCKS" I swage .224, 6mm, 7mm, .308, 9mm, .40, .429. Also 9 to 30 jackets, and 9 to 9 jackets.

  4. #4
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    I have one of the Table Top Furnaces < https://tabletopfurnace.com/ > and it works very well for me.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    I bought a table top furnace after reading about kc3ak's furnace.
    Have not fired it up yet, still struggling with programming the PID controller, and working out oxygen elimination.

    Was thinking a pipe nipple with two caps, putting the O-1 steel in the nipple with some saw dust.
    The sawdust charring should convert the oxygen in the nipple to C-02 or even C-0. Either way it will not be available for causing scale.
    Maybe screw one end on tight with the other about 1/2 a revolution so I could get it open quickly to quench the steel.
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  6. #6
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    s strip of paper in the pipe is all you need.
    I anneal gas checks in a 'pipe bomb' in the wood stove, the paper eats up the oxygen when it hits about 650-700F and chars off.

    I have looked at a lot of these kilns too, the paragon is a pretty good one.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master lead chucker's Avatar
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    A friend lent me his table top kiln, it works good it has a needle temp indicator on it. It takes about 30 minutes to heat up to 800F I have a small metal coffee can I cut in half to put the cases in. Now I have to get all my cases ready to anneal before he wants it back.
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  8. #8
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    We got this one the SC2. Brian We will let you know how it works when we get it set up and running, Duke is on a road trip for about a week and then we have to run down to Miami and pick it up. I am looking forward to getting it into our production line.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    You may want to look at stain glass suppliers. Kilns made for stained glass have a higher temp range and more control then ceramic.
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  10. #10
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    Kind of on the subject of table top kilns... What about a DIY kiln? The thought in my head was some fire bricks, kaowool/ sheet metal for the door, and then use one or two lee lead pot elements ($11 each on Midway). If you already have a plug and play PID just get some high temp probes and you could probably get pretty hot. Just adding a fire brick to the top of my regular pot anneals brass pretty quick. Sorry if this is off topic.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just use the stainless steel wrap, in 321 for all of my tool steel, mostly O-1

    Sprinkintime

  12. #12
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    We gave our Paragon a test run, and it quickly heated up to 1800 degrees. It's fully CNC controllable. Heat steps up, and down, and hold times. It will work perfectly for our annealing needs. Have to fabricate a stainless steel mesh basket to facilitate getting annealing batches in and out.

    Wear gloves and sunglasses when opening the door. The infrared is immense.

    We we may even do some brass melting and casting. Capable of doing investment castings, also known as lost wax castings.


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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have one of the Paragon furnaces, model HT41D, purchased new, that has been in use since Jan of 1998.

    Have had to replace the heating coils once in this time. As I do a lot of case hardening with steel containers I have to watch and clean the furnace on a regular basis so no carbon chunks will drop off the sides of the containers and touch and burn out the heating coils.

    It has the older DTC 800 controls, the only thing I wish it also did would be to beep when the soak time is done, other wise I simply have to make a mental note and watch the clock.

    Currently have 5 preset programs in it I run.

    It has served me very well for the overall heat treating I do in our shop.

    J Wisner

  14. #14
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    I am researching ceramic or graphite crucibles for the purpose of doing some brass castings. The Paragon will certainly get up into that range. I understand that we also need to use something like Borax (20 Mule team Borax) to use as a flux when doing the casting, to keep the oxidizing to a minimum.

    Our original melting test was done using a cast iron lead (plumbers) melting pot. We spent so much time waiting for the cast iron to come up to temp, that we gave up, with only a partial brass melt occuring in the bottom of the pot.

    The crucibles should be more perfectly suited for the task. If anyone has any suggestions for size and composition I am all ears. We're hoping that in addition to our annealing needs, we should also be able to cast brass paperweights, etc. Researching all of that stuff, including plaster molds.


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  15. #15
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Have you tried steel? Maybe the bottom of a camp stove propane tank? I have seen videos were this type of crucible has been used in a propane & forced air furnace.
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  16. #16
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    Yes, I have. And, I have also watched the FOLLOW UP video by the same guy, and he advises that the steel fire extinguisher bottom (That's what was featured in the original YouTube video) is NOT the best choice. He suggests that a graphite/clay crucible is the best choice.


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  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Dragging this thread back from the dead.

    I finally got smart enough to program my table top furnace PID controller.

    I have a die body cut, and ready to harden, a pipe nipple and two caps to heat the die in an oxygen free container. This pipe nipple is small enough to not short out the exposed heating coils of the furnace.

    Looking for suggestions on quenching oil, the quantity to fully cool a 7/8 x4" piece of O-1 steel.
    The type of oil best for quenching.
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    Clodhopper

  18. #18
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    I just put them in a lee lead pot, cover with tin foil and about 5 minutes later, they are done.

  19. #19
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    BT I will send you the derimming die and punch as soon as I can. It pops through so many jackets, I've given up.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackoutBuilder View Post
    BT I will send you the derimming die and punch as soon as I can. It pops through so many jackets, I've given up.
    Probably a brass build up or something on the bare steel die. The nitride finished dies experience much fewer, if any problems with the deriming.

    Send it my way and I'll polish it again.

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