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Thread: Lee 4-20

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    central illinois
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    140

    Lee 4-20

    Probably a stupid question, but I'm setting up a 4-20 to replace the smaller 10 pound version I've been using for years. Itook it out of the box and screwed the metal knob onto the shaft, and tried it to see how it felt. The rod doesn't move. Does anyone know what I need to adjust to get it working? Don't want to turn the wrong thing.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    TXCOONDOG's Avatar
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    Aug 2016
    Location
    Texas
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    Loosen the valve rod as it is tightened to prevent movement and trash from getting under the valve.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Feb 2016
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    central illinois
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    Thanks. Right hand thread?

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    TXCOONDOG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Texas
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    317
    Left increase and right decrease.

    Here is a link to the manual:

    http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/EL3469.pdf

  5. #5
    Boolit Master bbogue1's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
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    Western Texas
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    Has anyone lapped the mating surfaces at the end of the valve rod to prevent dripping?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    way out west, Texas
    Posts
    582
    Lapping does the rod a wonder of good. Highly suggest that you do it. Since I have done mine when it was new, have had little to no rips at all.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check