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Thread: Need advice loading .45-70

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    I have fired around 56,000 rounds of 45/70 loaded with 10 grains of Unique under a 385 grain cast in various TD's. Both original, H&R reproduction and rebarreled original actions. On the rebarreled action I have over 20,000 through it. Zero hint of a chamber ringing. A small percentage of those had heavier bullets and more Unique.

    I do not use a wad. Wad related chamber ringing was an issue in the late 60's when I started and I have limited experience with fillers.

    If Unique and chamber ringing is a problem I would think that I have seen some evidence of it in the 80 pounds or so I have put through TD's

    Cleaning black powder is very easy and not as time sensitive as most would believe.

    Pyrodex left or not cleaned properly has destroyed a very large number of firearms.

    I got a deal on 5 pound of Blackhorn 209. Only used it in inlines.

    http://www.blackhorn209.com/wp-conte...tridgedata.pdf

    http://www.blackhorn209.com/faqs/
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-02-2017 at 10:57 PM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Big Mak's Avatar
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    Agree with you Lead Pot, on "caution, proceed at own risk", but I have yet to find a case or a judicial precedent in regards to a successful lawsuit involving two paries, one giving advice to the other....on the internets... to the extent of Party A sueing Party B for an injury regarding a suggested load. If you have a successful case lawsuit that is public you can share, please do.

    It goes without saying, "proceed at your own risk" when it comes to internet reloaders. The more books for cross reference, the better!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Winning a case is just as expensive maybe more so then loosing it.
    It's not worth it. To many when they load they push the envelope.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by iplaywithnoshoes View Post
    ... but I fear ruining my new barrel with just the slightest bit of residue left over from Black Powder or Pyrodex. I'm open to using them but I need a fail safe cleaning method since I'm in a fairly humid environment in storage. ...
    honestly, fear not for using REAL black powder.

    and NOT that fake sub powder, either.

    most of us believe REAL black powder to be "better" than smokeless ... no, i'll claim it *IS* better than smokeless, particularly better in yer .45-70 rifle. bp clean up is easier than one thinks for both the gun and brass, because thinking and doing are two entirely diff'rent things. i shot smokeless (unique, trail boss, 4759, 5744) in my .45-70's for more than a year, always concerned about the "nastiness" of REAL black powder and thus avoiding it like the plague. all totally and completely unfounded. ask me why.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    A black powder rifle cleans up faster then one shot with smokeless and jacketed bullets by a long way.
    All of my powder rifles get shot a lot some more then others and they sit for a long time between uses. In the past my average powder consumption was between 4 and 5 cases a year except for the last 2 1/2 years I developed some medical problems and last 2 years I just shot a little over two cases and I have yet to see any of my rifles with rust from using black powder. When I clean them I use just wet patches maybe a little dish soap in a bottle of water and 3-4 wet patches and a few dry patches the last patch cones out just as white as it went in. Oil it and wipe it down with a oily rag and your good to go the next time you use it. Just run a drp patch down the barrel to dry out the oil and shoot.
    Now Pyrodex is a little different story. When you get done shooting clean it good. You can use the same stuff I use but make sure the bore is dry and use a good oil. I will suggest you clean it again the next day even if it was not used. I have a friend that used that sub powder and he cleaned his rifle when I was cleaning mine and he did a good job from what the patches looked like. We shot again the next weekend and when he pushed a dry patch through the bore to clean out the oil that patch was brown. I asked him did you clean that rifle since you shot it? and he said you saw me clean it last weekend..........he never shot that powder again.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Like LeadPot says, cleaning a black powder firearm is very easy. The easiest is my rifles that I shoot paper patched bullets in. It just takes 2 or 3 patches with Butches Black Powder Bore Shine, and a couple of dry ones. Then a little bit of Eezox to protect the bore and it goes into the safe.

    For rifles that shoot unpatched bullets, the only difference is that I run some very tight dry patches through the bore to remove any flecks of lead that may hide BP fouling. As long as you get the fouling out you will be fine.

    Many of us shoot very expensive match rifles with black powder all the time without ruining barrels. I live in a place where humidity is reasonably high. I do have a dehumidifier in my gun room to keep it at or under 50%.

    If you are worried about it, take the rifle back out of the safe the next day and run a few patches through it again to see if you missed anything.

    My BP rifles are a lot easier to deal with than my .308.

    Chris.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
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    Going back to the first paragraph of this thread I read that using pistol powders in straight walled large caliber ammo was bad mojo. So.... correct me if I am wrong but isn't a 45-70 a tapered wall. As such I was lead to believe that is the reason there are no carbide dies and thus we lube the case during the reloading process.
    I know I'll regret posting this
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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy iplaywithnoshoes's Avatar
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    Hey guys and gals,

    Thank you again for your advice and experience in this. I will continue to use Unique in economic loading for .45-70, perhaps testing it extensively against my current convenient load of Trail Boss. I get a better feeling on cleaning with real BP as well. The consensus seems to suggest more fouling but soft enough to be wiped with fewer patches than with smokeless powder, albeit with wiping in between shots. I have another issue I need resolved as well:


    All of the bullets I have available are of rather hard alloys (BHN 15-18). Their sizes are between .458 and .459. My bore at around .458. Does this mean that I have no bullets suitable for black powder/Blackhorn 209? I know that you want a softer alloy and slightly undersized by a few thousandths to allow for some obturation into the grooves. Will bullets of greater hardness and oversized work or should I expect increased leading?

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
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    My favorite load is 13 grs of Trailboss under a 405 RNFP. Mv 1050
    Some cause happiness wherever they go, others whenever they go.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy iplaywithnoshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnhenry57 View Post
    My favorite load is 13 grs of Trailboss under a 405 RNFP. Mv 1050
    Yes, my load is quite close to that as well. It fire forms the case nicely and bumps the harder bullets a bit. 12.5 probably puts me at about 980.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Toymaker's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMR SR 4759 27 Lyman 457193.jpg 
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ID:	190133 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMR SR 4759 27 Hoch 459500.jpg 
Views:	23 
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ID:	190134 If these loads seem too stiff for you then reduce the charge to around 23 grains. Since 4759 has been discontinued I've found that Accurate 5744, same weight, gives identical performance.

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub
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    I load Blackhorn 209 with a .030 wad per load data under a lee 405 ( both flat base and hollow base ). It'll have some compression. Works great for me in several 45-70's.
    It ain't bent, Ned

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Grapeshot's Avatar
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    "I fear ruining my new barrel with just the slightest bit of residue left over from Black Powder or Pyrodex. "

    If you are using a single shot rifle like the sharps or a Rolling Block just use HOT soapy water to clean the barrel with. Spray WD40 after you dry the barrel with clean patches and run several more clean dry patches through the bore and lube with Ballistol or a good Gun Lube or CLP. I've done that for years and haven't had a problem with rust or corrosion.

    In a repeater like the M1876 or M1887, I put a fired case back in the chamber and close the lever and pour a water/Ballistol mix down the tube and wait ten minutes, drain and run dry patches down the bore a few times, remove the cartridge case and spray the WD40 in the chamber end down the barrel and let it sit on a folded towel, muzzle down until it drains out, then hit the bore with a few more dry patches and the CLP or Ballistol. Works like a charm.
    Listen! Do you hear it. The roar of cannons, the screams of the dying! Ahh! Music to my ears!

  14. #34
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    to each their own - i have found within 58 years of trad side-lock muzzleloader loading/shooting/cleaning that ol' plain tepid tap water is all that's needed if the barrel and lock have been well cared for from the get-go. no heat and no soap. bp residue is readily dissolved with only plain water. always has, always will, since its invention a half millennium ago. for both barrel and removed lock, patch dry after water cleaning, then patch with a bit of oil. done ... and well cared for. all my guns have bright, clean barrels. always have. always will. ymmv.

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    I shot smokeless (unique, trail boss, 4759, 5744) in my .45-70's for more than a year, always concerned about the "nastiness" of REAL black powder and thus avoiding it like the plague. all totally and completely unfounded. ask me why.
    Okay, I'll bite...why?

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    I shoot black powder on and off in all of my hand guns and rifles, including the .45 1911 and never have I seen rust or corrosion.

    Quite frankly I'm surprised that the MOD has not moved this to a smokeless forum where he might get better help on this subject.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    Quite frankly I'm surprised that the MOD has not moved this to a smokeless forum where he might get better help on this subject.
    Yup - I thought that too - not that I am a stickler, this thread has good info but it is about white powder loading and subs. Hey! Charlie is not here to be the Eeyore (RIP Charlie) someone has to
    Chill Wills

  18. #38
    Boolit Master


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    Trail boss, a fast powder, can be used to safely load even trap door level guns. Its bulky.

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy iplaywithnoshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toymaker View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMR SR 4759 27 Lyman 457193.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	61.6 KB 
ID:	190133 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMR SR 4759 27 Hoch 459500.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	69.8 KB 
ID:	190134 If these loads seem too stiff for you then reduce the charge to around 23 grains. Since 4759 has been discontinued I've found that Accurate 5744, same weight, gives identical performance.
    Wow, those are great groups. I'll be sure to try these out then. I will likely never find any 4759 so my little pile of 5744 should do fine. I hope the unburnt powder left over isn't a sign of some loading error of mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sigmanz View Post
    I load Blackhorn 209 with a .030 wad per load data under a lee 405 ( both flat base and hollow base ). It'll have some compression. Works great for me in several 45-70's.
    Good to know, I'll try this out. What kind of bullet hardness/alloy are we talking about and how are you sizing them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Grapeshot View Post
    "I fear ruining my new barrel with just the slightest bit of residue left over from Black Powder or Pyrodex. "

    If you are using a single shot rifle like the sharps or a Rolling Block just use HOT soapy water to clean the barrel with. Spray WD40 after you dry the barrel with clean patches and run several more clean dry patches through the bore and lube with Ballistol or a good Gun Lube or CLP. I've done that for years and haven't had a problem with rust or corrosion.

    In a repeater like the M1876 or M1887, I put a fired case back in the chamber and close the lever and pour a water/Ballistol mix down the tube and wait ten minutes, drain and run dry patches down the bore a few times, remove the cartridge case and spray the WD40 in the chamber end down the barrel and let it sit on a folded towel, muzzle down until it drains out, then hit the bore with a few more dry patches and the CLP or Ballistol. Works like a charm.
    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    to each their own - i have found within 58 years of trad side-lock muzzleloader loading/shooting/cleaning that ol' plain tepid tap water is all that's needed if the barrel and lock have been well cared for from the get-go. no heat and no soap. bp residue is readily dissolved with only plain water. always has, always will, since its invention a half millennium ago. for both barrel and removed lock, patch dry after water cleaning, then patch with a bit of oil. done ... and well cared for. all my guns have bright, clean barrels. always have. always will. ymmv.
    This is good to know as well, thank you again for the advice. It makes sense that black powder is highly water soluble, i was afraid of it staying in the nooks and crannies of the rifling, that's all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    I shoot black powder on and off in all of my hand guns and rifles, including the .45 1911 and never have I seen rust or corrosion.

    Quite frankly I'm surprised that the MOD has not moved this to a smokeless forum where he might get better help on this subject.
    I did ask for some BP advice as well so I guess this can apply to both. I figured that maybe a lot of people on here were fairly interdisciplinary with both smokeless and BP.

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    Trail boss, a fast powder, can be used to safely load even trap door level guns. Its bulky.
    I'm a big fan of it so far. A lot of people complain about it in .45-70 but some of my best groups at 100yds (very similar to the pictures quoted above) were done with 12.5grs. I have yet to push it to the 13.0gr that Hodgdon lists as a max.

    shoe

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by therealhitman View Post
    Okay, I'll bite...why?
    bp residue cleaning is easy with plain tepid water, a patch and a jagged rod. a few drying patches, then a lightly oiled patch. done. too easy.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check