Resize 35 Rem?

[Duckiller]

Recently I bought several boxes of factory 35 Rem. Sale also included a box of reloads marked "No Good". I believed who ever marked them and tore them down. Managed to destroy two cases before I went to a kenitic puller. I now have 18 primed cases to reload, probably with cast. Question is what do I do to the cases? Neck size or full length size. These will be shot in a Remington Model 8. I have not tried to run the cases through my gun. which I probably should do and not ask silly questions. Any thoughts?

[merlin101]

I'd full size considering you know nothing about em, just remember to remover your primer punch pin first.

[Gewehr-Guy]

If you try cast in your .35, give us an update on the results. I've been working with a .30 Rem Mod 8 , it shoots very well. Need to try my .35 next.

[357Mag]

Duckkiller -

Howdy !

I've loaded for and currently load .35 Rem. I've made every mistake possible to be made, when working w/ .35 Rem brass.

IMHO -
Yeh.... fit check the brass in the rifle. Do not FL size the brass... .if it does not require it.

Headspace on the rifle the brass was previously fired in + FL sizing could lead to case head separation; when brass is fired in your gun.



With regards,
357Mag

[georgerkahn]

I have a Model 181 (1947 vintage) in .35 Rem -- the later rendition of your Model 8. (Folks tell me it's a version which was less expensive for Remington produce, albeit very similar firearm.)

Two things I note: My brass has to be trimmed all to pretty close tolerance (1.910"), and my cartridge overall length needs be 2.580"; Secondly, ALL my brass used for this rifle are marked, and used exclusively in it. I make a wee file mark on rim to avoid mis-sups with other .35 Rem brass -- notably that for my 336 Marlin in this caliber. I use Ideal Imperial Sizing Wax (now made by Redding) on all cases, and do full length resize each case. MY thinking -- which might not be smart? -- but works, is that in a lever or bolt rifle one has a lot more control/power than a pump. 'Specially vis the way cartridges are in fact fed in this model -- I want problem-free functioning. I had a stuck case years back in a Model 8 (.30 Rem) I had, and the 80+ year old 'smith I took it to gave me that (full-length size) advice, and I heeded it -- problem free -- til I swapped said firearm for something which seemed more appealing (stupid move on my part!) at the time.
Whatever works for you -- go for it! But, again, I use my Wilson case trimmer on each and every case, and... full length size them.
BEST!
geo

[racepres]

Lots of good stuff for Cast Boolits in the 35 right here .. Like this one
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...e-35-Remington

BTW I use the same brass [and cast Loads] in the Mauser in 35R and a 141 Remington!!
Resize necks only with a 38/357 pistol die!!!
I have gotten some brass fired in "other guns" that I had to FL Size...but, I don't like to.

[KCSO]

For my model 8 full length resize only.

[rr2241tx]

To the best of my ability to determine 35 Rem is no more difficult to reload than any other straight walled case. If you're concerned that your chamber is so large that it will work your brass excessively then chamber cast it. I full length size each time and have no problems with brass life. Not full length sizing cases to be used in an autoloader is just asking for problems, IMHO. Annealing your cases will make it easier to get a good gas seal and head off neck splitting if the chamber neck is a bit generous.

[Mk42gunner]

I'd full length size and check for incipient case head separation with a bent wire. Maybe even discard the primer, you have no idea why the previous owner marked them no good.

Robert

[EDG]

I would find few cruddy cases to uses as sacrificial animals. Set your FL die to size to the exact chamber dimension to the shoulder. Then push the shoulder back about .002 more thousandths with the FL die. That is about the minimum you can size them. Then try each and every case in your chamber before you load it.

Once you have established that each case will chamber load them up and shoot them.
I like my dies set up like this because I have 3 rifles, 2 pumps and a lever gun plus a Super 14" Contender barrel and I would prefer not having to monkey with the dies every time.

Then check the head to shoulder length after they are fired and see if it matches your die setting. You eventually should be able to set the FL die so it does not work the brass much but the brass including once fired brass from any other gun should fit your chamber and feed ok and last for a long time.

[eck0313]

There is a lot of good info from previous posts. Loading for the .35 can be a little more problematic WRT setting up your sizing die. Size too much, and you get excess headspace, and dud rounds. You can “reclaim” those duds by using your inertia bullet puller to pull the bullets out so that the bullet is engaged with the chamber throat when firing - you use the bullet to support the case during firing.

I took a .40 S&W case that I picked up at the range to use as a “head spacing gauge” for my sizing die. Place the mouth of the .40 case over the mouth of the .35 case that has been fired in your rifle, and measure. Set your resize die up in your press to bump the shoulder back no more than .003 from this measurement , and you won’t have a problem with duds.

If you are loading for more than one .35 rifle, you might need to keep some notes!