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Thread: Quigley style shooting

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I shoot all summer without cleaning
    WW in my ruger does not lead
    I seize my bullet .458 and it give excellent accuracy
    this with smokeless powder
    I shot from 900 fps and 1400 fps no gas check and barrel stays clean

    is there a diference with black powder….

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Canuck, there is a big difference. Black powder will give you fouling like you ain't never seen. Fouling control is a big part of BPCR shooting. You will need to use a lube designed for black powder, and even then, you will probably have to use a blow tube or wipe between shots.

    Black powder fouling is hard, and will build up layer on top of layer, eventually the rifling will not be able to do what it is supposed to do. That eventually could be two or three rounds. If you can get a good black powder lube, it will help keep the fouling soft and stop it from sticking to the barrel so that hopefully the next round will push the fouling out, rather than let it build up.

    The only problem with BPCR is that it has so many variables, lube, lead alloy, powder (both the amount and the compression), the primer, wads (how many, and what they are made of), the list goes on.
    WHEN IN DOUBT, USE MORE CLOUT!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I have been watching many video and reading on black powder shooting
    its a lot of experiencing to find a load that your rifle likes powder, lube, etc….. even read that you put a paper wad over the primer so the powder is kept from getting in the primer flash hole…..
    but I did not find nothing on using WW
    can I assume that my WW bullet seize at .460 does not lead the barrel of my ruger
    this of course if I follow what you wrote above…..blow tube, wiping with patch between shots

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

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    With the right compression on a bullet case powder combination fouling goes down and becomes more controllable. The correct lubes for the conditions help keep it soft and workable. (Hot dry conditions may require different things than cool damp conditions) A good lube in enough quanity goes a long way with the fouling. SPG, Blac Tac, Emmerts improved ( home made) will normally go along way to softening fouling. You will feel it cleaning when the jag and tight fitting patch slide thru feeling snug but greased like its what you want. When its grabbing and feels like its on sandpaper (Dry gritty) you need more fouling control or lube. Experiment with your rifles and see what they want here.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Go with the pistol grip every time!

    You live in a fortunate spot as you are not so far from Ottawa where you can shoot in the long range competitions.

    At many of the local matches you'll find they will let you shoot even if your rifle is a tiny bit over weight.

    Chris.

  6. #26
    Moderator Emeritus

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    As to alloy, I was told that some get good results casting those big, long, heavy bullets with WW's, and many had problems with it. I had problems using WW's with my mold, a Saeco #745, and every one I cast with any WW's in it had a void near the base. Those bullets wouldn't shoot for spit. I was very disappointed, but found some lead sheeting, which is very soft, and added in @ 3% tin for an approximately 30:1 mix, and was instantly rewarded with very good accuracy. But you never know until you try with your mold and lead. It may pay to try both, and let the target tell you which your gun and mold want to shoot its best. My WW bullets were horrible at just 100 yds. Voids in bases throw the bullet out of balance, and there's no telling where they'll hit, and no way to predict which direction they'll yaw off into. Plain binary lead-tin mixes proved in MY gun to be the recipe, but I've heard of too many others getting satisfactory results to insist that my way is the only way. Give 'em both a try and see for yourself. That's always the final arbiter anyway. And if you recover your WW bullets, you can always melt them down again and give them a 2nd chance - a neat factor with lead. FWIW?

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunlaker View Post
    Go with the pistol grip every time!

    You live in a fortunate spot as you are not so far from Ottawa where you can shoot in the long range competitions.

    At many of the local matches you'll find they will let you shoot even if your rifle is a tiny bit over weight.

    Chris.
    yes I already spoken to 2 shooters of sharp type rifle that go each year for the National in Connaught

    I went there once and what a beautiful range

    I have the saeco mold 745… and it make very good bullet …… will try this one firs….

    thanks

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    That mold should be a good start. I've used it in my Shiloh and in a Browning BPCR with good results.

    I've heard that the Pedersoli rifles like a .460" bullet.

    Chris.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I have heard good comments on this mold
    Mine cast a shadow over .460
    hope for a early spring to try it with black powder in my ruger NO 1

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Nampa , Idaho
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    Get the shorter one I had a 34 in barrel on a c.sharps last 3 in would foul much worse cut of 4 in now it shoots even better.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/scheda-prodotto.asp/l_en/idpr_204/rifles-1874-sharps-rifle-1874-sharps-buffalo.html

    after many suggestions and reading…. I have chosen the Perdesoli 1874 sharp buffalo rifle………. pistol grip 30 inch heavy barrel


    will change the sights for MVA

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check