This was a reshaping session where I was changing the shape of a cast and lubed .358 bullet. I should have realized I was going to have a problem at the hard cam over point. Lesson learned at the cost of about $120.00 with shipping both ways. I also do this with a .429 converting a round nose to a wadcutter. I have become much more careful now.
Originally Posted by DukeInFlorida
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
I did something very similar with my core die.
I pressed over cam, turned to do something and "CRAAACK!"
Spent about five minutes of looking around to see what fell (that's what it sounded like) and then went back to the press and Son of a %#¥*€%^!!!
luckily just one crack vertically in line with the bleed hole so I'm going to try to clamp and weld it and then it is just pure clean lead from then on!
I really think any core die would benefit from more than one bleed hole - am I wrong on that?
Wow that's a lot of pressure. I put three 1/16 bleed holes in my core swage dies. It doesn't seem to take that much pressure to extrude lead and they make a consistent core. I'm making cores for 223 and 308 bullets. The bigger stuff as far as making cores I haven't played with yet.
Dont pee down my back and tell me its raining.
Exactly what happened, except I knew it was the die immediately.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
GONRA (today) stuck a 9mm jacket on a (lubricated) Swaging Punch.
Need you Swaging Pros suggestions how to get it off.
(Can slooowly machine or chemically dissolve it off
but bet you guys have better suggestions!)
THANX!
If you can get the punch out of the press.
Take the punch to an anvil and Lightly tap the brass until it stretches enough to come off.
Mine took a lot of tapping.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
Others have used a torch.
GONRA thanks you fellas for the free advice.
Wrapped couple layers of masking tape around bare punch shank for errant hammer taps.
Tapped away on the jacket for a few seconds and it flew off the punch! A Happy Day!
Before continuing further on this swaging project,
might setup with a closely machined “slip fit” washer on the punch for future “stripper assistance”….
“Double wedge” method (like Jarno Taper mounted Jacobs Chucks) might available in the future.
THANX AGAIN FELLAS!
Maybe some JB weld,maybe not!super glue
Flex seal
I received the new die a while back. It was ONLY a $120.00 mistake.
Where as my Father In Law had all the faith in the world in JB Weld, I don't think it would hold up to the outward pressure created.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
So, I've been getting away with reforming cast bullets (fairly hard but not super hard) in a point former. Am I just lucky or is it because there are no bleed holes to compromise the strength of the dies (Corbin dies)? Anyone busted a point former this way?
I have been swaging a LOT of 458 lately. I size down 45acp brass. I had made up a bunch of 9mm Makarov because it makes a 0.364" diameter 205-210 grain finished product. I don't even own a Makarov but it is convenient for swaging cores for 45cal. The mystery metal I was using is too hard for core swaging. So I place a cast bullet on the digital scale (205-210). A 45acp brass (85-90) grains and then as much lead "turds" as it takes to come up to 405 grains. In all the 224 I have made I have a plastic bin of 0.08" diameter lead turds of various lengths. The turds go in first, then I cap it off with a Makarov bullet. I seat the "core" and the end result is lead about 1 millimeter above the case mouth. It point-forms fine, even though the mystery metal is harder than pure lead. So to make a long story short, mystery metal can be deformed by a swage die but trying to swage the core is another matter. The cores I did swage for 45cal I ended up doing in two stages. 211 grains to 208, then 208 to 206. The 45acp jackets from RCECO (0.58" long) are 24 grains to make a 230gr finished product.
As stated earlier in the thread, Do this slowly and with short strokes on the handle or you will end up with a broken die like I did. I also try to reform with in a day or two of casting.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
just a thought. pressing a thicker sleeve over the die should reinforce it a bit.. turn the inside diameter of the sleeve to a 0.001in interference fit and put the die in the freezer and slightly heat the sleeve b4 pressing it over it and when the sleeve cools it will shrink and have the die in compression.. this would work if there is room and if the die was not knurled.. that is the problem with knurling, while it helps to get a better grip on things it also creates stress risers or points of heightened stress in the bottom of each sharp cornered grove and this increases the possibility of breaking. that is why my dies have flats on them and as few sharp corners as i can get away with. people do not realize it when swaging that the die actually flexes with the pressure put inside of them and anything that has a sharp corner or section can crack at that point.. it is the same as grooving a piece of metal with a file so you can snap it off at that spot..
Exactly my thought.
I had a couple go-kart axle rings that actually fit around the die!
Just need to keep the bleed hole clear and I used two so I can tighten the set screws 180deg from each other to hopefully aid in keeping the crack from expanding.
One could certainly do this as an added strengthening on a new die I suppose.
Working out so far.
if it works it works.. reason ya do the interference fit and cool the die and heat the ring is that when the ring shrinks and the die expands it will hold the die in compression and it acts like a solid piece... that is what i would do to a new die to prevent it from going pop the first time...
Get the welder Vern.
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