I bet the 20 you kept were your last 20 when your mold was at the proper temperature.
I bet the 20 you kept were your last 20 when your mold was at the proper temperature.
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what is the technique lyman describes? I hold my molds even and pour right into the holes, well sometimes I let it hit the edge of the sprue hole and then trickle in. but I have never had problems just pouring right into the holes, so I am interested in this lyman technique you speak of.
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I agree, more heat, but the ebay lead may also be the issue. You have no idea what you are getting as to alloy. Turn the heat up, flux it really well, then cast at 750+. You can also try pressure casting, the spout hard against the spru plate, then form your generous spru. Also make sure the mold cas are really clean, toothbrush & degreaser clean.
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the lyman method is also called the twist.
you line the sprue up with the ladle face and make contact then roll them over mold side down and move your hands apart.
I do the roll/twist and count to 5 then roll back and do the next cavity.
then pour some of the remaining lead in the sprue holes and on the plate so I can get the sprues back off the plate.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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