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Thank you.
Beagle, I tried to search on there, but I'm coming up empty handed. Can you post a direct link? Very much appreciated.Originally Posted by beagle
If you are smart with the carbine and cast bullets you will set up the seater and crimp dies as two different stages. Crimping and seating as one function can build up shaved lead and lube on the case mouth, then build up lead and lube on the chamber end at the barrel mouth where it headspaces and eventually result in an out of battery discharge on an older worn carbine. The result is a sheered locking lug if you are real lucky. Saw that happen to my "Jukes Box", was not a happy camper.
I too use that 130 Lyman and it shoots real well at about 50 yards, after I replaced the bolt.
"Let us speak courteously, fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready."
Teddy Roosevelt, May 13, 1903
Thank you!If you are smart with the carbine and cast bullets you will set up the seater and crimp dies as two different stages. Crimping and seating as one function can build up shaved lead and lube on the case mouth, then build up lead and lube on the chamber end at the barrel mouth where it headspaces and eventually result in an out of battery discharge on an older worn carbine. The result is a sheered locking lug if you are real lucky. Saw that happen to my "Jukes Box", was not a happy camper.
I too use that 130 Lyman and it shoots real well at about 50 yards, after I replaced the bolt.
I have the NOE 311115 PB mold for the Carbine. I use Hi-Tek coating. I strongly suggest getting this mold. Feeds great and extremely accurate. Send me a PM for more specifics.
PM sent. Thank you!
Thanks for the head up, I just finished reading it and learned a lot! I just picked up 2 M1 Carbines and am about to start loading some NOE cast bullets (Gas Checked) They are listed as 115 grain but powder coated and gas checked they are 119 grains. I will be using data I have found for 115 grain so I will have to reduce it just a little. I keep reading about people using H-110 but its not listed in my Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. I do see loads for it on their site for a 110 gr FMJ bullet.
Just starting out with the 30 carbine, thanks again for the info.
"Cast Bullets in the .30 M1 Carbine" on castpics./beagle
Can't find it.
Please post link.
I have been using cast PB bullets in my M1 Carbine for many years. It's all I use. The mold was a Group Buy on this site manufactured by Lee. The key is to use an alloy consisting of mostly linotype or monotype with some pure lead mixed in. My bullets come out at 105 grains, and my normal load is 12.5 grains of 2400.
Don
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
NRA Life Member
Unknown why Lyman doesn't list H110 for use with the 30 Carbine. H110 was developed for use in the 30 Carbine. My guess is because it is a powder not recommended for "reduced loads". However, I use it for top end, service level loads with jacketed and GC'd cast bullets where it performs normally w/o problems. H110 is my preferred powder in the 30 Carbine for jacketed and cast after 49 years of trying most everything else.
The OP wants to use a PB cast bullet. It is the only instance where I found a different powder to work better. With PB'd cast of 118 - 125 gr I found 4227 to be the better powder as for best accuracy the velocity was kept at 1550 - 1600 fps. Functioning was 100% with 4227 also with the low end loads.
Larry Gibson
It has been quite a while since I loaded any 30 carbine, but 12.8 grains of H110 did yeoman's work with a 311-316 gas checked. I tried some 311-410s but accuracy was mediocre. I have to admit that 25 years ago, I was much less knowledgeable than I am now, so It may have been operator error on my part, but the Gas Checked boolits were much more accurate.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
I only started shooting a .30Carbine about 2 years ago. It's been an interesting endeavor.
I started with a Plainfield that shot pretty good, but discovered they aren't allowed in CMP Carbine matches, so I traded it for a '44 Saginaw rebuild with a like new Inland barrel.
I was quickly disappointed in that it throws "fliers". Nothing has shown any promise at helping. I've tried everything in the "accuracy" article to include a new stock and recoil plate. It already had a type III barrel band/bayonet lug.
Enter cast bullets!
On a lark, I loaded some 90gr Lee .311" powder-coated (HF "shake 'n bake") over 11gr of #2400. Idea was to see if they would cycle the action and feed.
Did They!!! I was amazed.
They shoot as good as the 110gr FMJ. No better, but for practically free bullets, they were amazing. And NO GAS CHECKS...
So, I've bought me a Lee 100gr 2R .311". Cast, coated, and sized they're 104gr and over 11.7gr of #2400, they come as close to duplicating factory ammo as you could ask for. I prefer #2400 as the cases are thrown over my right shoulder in a neat pile (I shoot long-guns left handed).
Still shooting 10" groups at 100yds, 1-2 will "fly" out of central core of 3-4". Just like 110gr Sierra's at close to $0.20 each.
I've also tried other powders (H4227, H110, Acc#9), along with assorted jacketed bullets. Also Lee 120gr RNGC, and 113gr Lee .311FNGC (my favorite).
I suppose a Criterion barrel is in my future...
But I really do enjoy shooting my Carbine for a nickel a shot!
Last edited by GooseGestapo; 06-18-2017 at 05:27 PM.
I'm fixing to start reloading .30 carbine for my wife's Howa Sporter. I have some 110 sp PPUs to use up,and then get a mould. Is there a truncated flat point style available as far as anyone knows? I want a gas check design.
Best, Thomas.
Not sure whether a truncated flat-nose will feed. I had Accurate cut 31-120TG for my Inland carbine and Ruger Blackhawk revolver and it works for me.
Attachment 197917
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I like to run the Accurate Mold 4-cavity, 115 gr (throws about 120 gr with WW) RN with GC and 14-15 gr of H110/CCI 400's. They are water dropped to increase BHN. Run's very smooth with zero malfs.
Alan
Accurate 31-114D sized .311" with 14 grs. of IMR4198 cycles my carbine fine and is accurate, if not full power.
Attachment 198150
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Runfiverun, I really like that reply. Great advice!
Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting
Update to post #32.
I decided to try lapping the crown on the muzzle.
Voila! I made a Lapp from a large headed screw. I coated it first with a piece of 320grit wet/dry sand paper. Polished the juncture of the bore and crown. Rifling is very prominent. I then followed up with valve lapping compound on the screw head, turned with a cordless drill.
Shot it this afternoon. Using some 100gr Hornady half-jacket I found in some gifted odd lots of components, over 11.7gr of #2400, I got a neat cluster of shots in 1.5" at 50yds with one flyer opening group to 2.5". A 50% improvement in accuracy!
Several other loads were tried including 110gr Armscor jacketed over 14.7gr of H110. Groups were nice and round, without the customary flyers. Heavy rains intervened with a tornado warning, so 100yd groups will have to wait. Perhaps 6" now at 100yds instead of 12-13"...
Such a fun rifle to shoot!!!
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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