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Thread: Barrel shroud

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Smile Barrel shroud

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    I cant say I'm terribly offended by the steps in a military barrel. However I was looking for a lathe project and decided to try this.

    My plan was to bore each end about .002 small. Put the barrel in the freezer and the sleeve on the wood stove. But I got carried away and was able to push/twist it on. Smeared a little epoxy on it just for good measure.

    Once the epoxy sets up I may file/sand a slight roll right where the shroud meets the barrel. I also may not.
    The picture says I need to blue the whole thing
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I did something similar when I re-barreled my Lee Enfield and my K31. I used the Savage-Barrel-Nut method when I re-barreled both riles so the difference between mine and your projects was that my "Barrel-Shrouds" were actually Barrel-Nuts (threaded on the inside) turned on the lathe to the contour I needed. Your's are a slip fit and mine screw on. Both appear to serve similar aesthetic functions.

    What was the purpose of adding your "Barrel-Shroud?" Were you just wanting a different look? On my project guns, I was just hoping to add a little more mass to the chamber end of my barrels. This was mostly due to me wanting to err on the side of caution with my milsurp receivers. I wasn't sure how they would handle the pressures of the cartridges I re-chambered to. By adding a little more mass to the walls of the chamber end of my barrels, I was thinking it would be like a precautionary thing. I know now that the added mass most likely wasn't needed but the actual Barrel-Nuts were needed in order to secure my barrels.

    HollowPoint

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I think the main purpose behind this is that I have an old lathe that I've been trying to learn to use. I had bought a small boring bar but had never done any boring. I was looking for a boring project.
    As a side note I'm hoping this may alleviate the need for a pressure point at the end of the forearm that many military barrels require to shoot their best.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfer View Post
    I think the main purpose behind this is that I have an old lathe that I've been trying to learn to use. I had bought a small boring bar but had never done any boring. I was looking for a boring project.
    As a side note I'm hoping this may alleviate the need for a pressure point at the end of the forearm that many military barrels require to shoot their best.

    Ah! that's a good idea. I never thought of that. Now that you mention it, it does seem like alot of the old milsurps do have a short pencil thin span of barrel directly in front of the face of the receiver; at least mine did. I can see how this might be conducive to flexing. Learn something new every day.

    For a boring bar to work on such a small diameter hole as that in your shroud, it would have to be of a not-to-large diameter configuration. Did you find that you had to bore from one end then the other in order to avoid having the boring bar flex when it got to the deepest part of the cut? I've had that problem with my boring bars; but of course, mine were the cheapest ones I could find. I'm sure the quality boring bars don't have nearly the flex that my cheapies do.

    HollowPoint

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Theres several little tricks to boring. the correct relief angles and tool geometry is important as is the correct boring bar. We had 3/8" X 1/2" X6" HSS cobalt blanks to grind bars out of for smaller ones. Also a hardened bar is stiffer. We also had some solid carbide bars for the jig bore and small lathes. They weren't cheap but were very rigid and solid.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I got a 3/8" by about 6" bar at Grizzly. It takes small carbide inserts.

    Yes I had to bore at both ends. At the breech I could do the first two steps. On the other end I had to extend it out as far as I could just to clear. The flex wasn't as bad as I expected but was definitely there.
    Once I got close I didn't bore from the outside. I went in about 3/4" and started cutting from there. Once I felt I was a few thousands oversized I shortened the bar and bored the end.

    I have a bigger bar that would have worked on the last few passes but the little one worked well enough for what it was.

    My original plan was to ream the hole with a correct sized chucking reamer and just bore the steps but I didn't want to drive into town to get one.

    Im learning but I have a long ways to go!
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check