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Thread: Bevel base Hensley & Gibbs

  1. #1
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    Bevel base Hensley & Gibbs

    A few years ago I bought a very nice 10 cavity H&G #51 BB mold from someone here. I've been using it in my K38 just for plinking and target shooting. It's the only BB mold I own. Are there disadvantages to the BB? I get a slight amount of flashing on the base once in a while and I ant help but think that it wouldn't help with accuracy any, though I have no trouble ringing steel with the gun and boolit. Is there any advantage to having someone modify this mold to a PB version? Or should I not mess with an H&G mold which cast beautifully and perfectly as is? Other than the slight flashing, which could be from things being too hot.


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  2. #2
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    I'm certainly no expert but have always heard "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
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  3. #3
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    I'd leave it too.
    my 358091 is probably a close to exact copy of the #51 but the bevel isn't a big deal, even when I wind it up to over 1-K fps.

    if your getting a little flashing you need to check the sprue plate is laying level.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I'd leave it too.
    my 358091 is probably a close to exact copy of the #51 but the bevel isn't a big deal, even when I wind it up to over 1-K fps.

    if your getting a little flashing you need to check the sprue plate is laying level.
    It's having a tendency to get lead "freckles" on the top of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate. I'm not sure why. When it cools down I carefully remove them. And then no more flashing. Until they appear again. I'm not entirely sure what's going on. The flashing easily peels off with a fingernail, but it's a pain when sizing.
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  5. #5
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    The bevel would put any deformities on the base away from the trailing edge and toward the center. Makes the boolet easier to start in the case too. If you size pushing on the base, it reinforces the base against damage by the sizer stem.

    Most with the older RCBS or Lyman sizers didn't like bevel bases as it left a ring of grease to be wiped off. Using a Star doesn't have this problem.

    Some just don't like bevel bases....say they are inaccurate. I have some that shoot ok... YMMV

  6. #6
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    I shoot a lot of 68 H&G when I picked up a BB mold the std base mold hasn't been taken out of the box it is so much easier to load on my Dillon. I think you my be worrying about something that really isn't a big problem.

  7. #7
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    the freckling could be controlled with something on top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate.
    I use a lot of nickel anti-sieze, AC-100 Ester oil, or just plain old 2-stroke oil.
    a swipe with a Q-tip across the mold top and plate bottom with boolits in the mold will provide enough of a barrier to keep the lead from sticking.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  8. #8
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    I have a 4 cavity H&G #51 that Erik removed the BB from. It casts beautifully.
    The only thing is that most people don't like BB cast bullets. The reality is that you don't have to bell out the brass as much to start a BB bullet into the case. That should make the brass last longer....or so the theory goes.
    If you want to cast and shoot all the bullets yourself, keep it BB. If you ever want to sell or trade the bullets, remove the BB. Nobody wants BB bullets.....but they are every bit as good as PB bullets.
    Quote Originally Posted by selmerfan View Post
    A few years ago I bought a very nice 10 cavity H&G #51 BB mold from someone here. I've been using it in my K38 just for plinking and target shooting. It's the only BB mold I own. Are there disadvantages to the BB? I get a slight amount of flashing on the base once in a while and I ant help but think that it wouldn't help with accuracy any, though I have no trouble ringing steel with the gun and boolit. Is there any advantage to having someone modify this mold to a PB version? Or should I not mess with an H&G mold which cast beautifully and perfectly as is? Other than the slight flashing, which could be from things being too hot.
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    Last edited by FISH4BUGS; 02-07-2017 at 04:21 PM.
    Collector and shooter of guns with selector switches and threaded barrels. Collector of suppressors, SBR's, AOW's and SBS's. Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    the freckling could be controlled with something on top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate.
    I use a lot of nickel anti-sieze, AC-100 Ester oil, or just plain old 2-stroke oil.
    a swipe with a Q-tip across the mold top and plate bottom with boolits in the mold will provide enough of a barrier to keep the lead from sticking.
    I've been using Bullplate lube in an attempt to prevent this. It works for a few hundred bullets, then needs it again.
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  10. #10
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    I had the BB trimmed off of my LEE 200 gr SWC H&G 68 clone.

    Shiloh
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  11. #11
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    If I recall correctly COL Harrison spoke pretty highly of that BB wad cutter. When I get to the shop I will look it up and post exactly his comment on it.

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  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Here's what I was referencing...

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    Smith Wesson 629 PP and 686 PP, 617

  13. #13
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    Not a true bevel base.. l shoot quite a few H&G boolits from a 44 GC mold WITHOUT the gas check.. They are quite accurate below 1000 fps

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check