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Thread: Little buggers

  1. #1
    Boolit Master




    TexasGrunt's Avatar
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    Little buggers

    I've been casting boolits for about a month. I've been pouring lead for years making fishing tackle.

    My Lee .22 caliber mold is a fickle little beast. On my best session with it I'm getting about 50% usable boolits. On a bad session I don't want to talk about it.

    I inspect every one of those little pills with a 10x magnifying lamp.

    I'm running my pot hotter than normal to keep the mold temp up. Smoking the mold is a must. I'm still getting lots of lines and wrinkles in them little pills.

    Is my experience normal or is there something I'm missing?

    All my other molds are .40 and .45 and I have no problems casting those.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Mold not hot enough.
    Are you preheating it? Is it a 2 or 6 cavity? I cast 3,000 of the lee Bator last week. 95% good. Mold preheated on a walmart hotplate set between med and Hi. Lyman Mag 25 set at 725, first drop fine, cast as fast as I can and mold stays hot. If I have to pause for anything I put the mold back on the hotplate.
    There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism—by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide. Ayn Rand

  3. #3
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    Yes, what Farmerjim said! Start with a hot mold and cast fast to keep it hot. If you stop to inspect the boolits, the mold is cooling while you do that. Cast 100 or so before you stop to inspect. If they're not right, dump them back in the pot and start over, altering your method to cure the problem.

    And...smoking the mold is NOT "a must". Applying a mold release (like smoking) is just covering up a problem. If the boolits don't drop freely from the mold, especially with tiny boolits, your mold is cooling too much while you're trying to get them to drop. "Lee-menting" will probably help, but it can be a real challenge with itty-bitty cavities.

    Sometimes there is a very narrow range of metal temp/mold temp/pouring cadence that works. It may take some experimenting to find the sweet spot.

    Good luck
    Jerry
    Buzzard's luck!! Can't kill nothin', nothin'll die!!

  4. #4
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    the lead you put in the tiny cavity's just don't replace the heat the air takes away.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master




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    Mold is hot. Pot is at 775, verified with thermometer. Not stopping to inspect while casting.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    CastingFool's Avatar
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    Add a little tin, to improve fill out, maybe.

  7. #7
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    "lines and wrinkles" ...the main cause of this is the mold being not hot enough, oil residue can cause it as well.

    have you cleaned (degreased) the mold real well?

    did you put the new sprue plate on? how is that functioning?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    What did you use to smoke the mold with?. If a candle it leave a greasy soot which could be part of the problem. try using the old kitchen matches or butane lighter. Frank

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Doggonekid's Avatar
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    I don't know how many boolits you have cast out of your .22 cal mold. If it is a new mold I have found sometimes it takes a while for my mold to break in. I think that weather or not you smoke your molds wont change the wrinkles. Good luck with that. I have never tried to cast boolits that small. In theory wrinkles are from a mold that is not hot enough.
    "Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid." John Wayne

  10. #10
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    I make my own molds and never needed a break in for any from mine to all factory molds. Dish soap and hot water is enough. I have cast every size boolit and the first is perfect so mold heat is important as is cadence.
    Watch the Walmart or most any hot plate. There is a thermal fuse in the bottom that will blow out. I bypassed mine when it quit. No liquid to draw off heat. I bring my molds to 500° in a little electric box oven with a BBQ thermometer in the top.
    Worst mold was heavy brass that drove me nuts keeping hot. Had to cast like Superman. Darn thing will make wrists slump.
    I hate Lee sprue plates. Molds work fine though.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master




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    I've added tin.

    New sprue plate did the trick!

    I used a butane lighter.

    Mold has been cleaned.

    I've cast over 1000 boolits in the mold.

    I'll try getting it really hot and see if that helps. I did notice that most of the good boolits were a bit frosty.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  12. #12
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    44man's Avatar
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    Frost is OK but boolits can be under size.

  13. #13
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    try filling the mold slower.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I agree the new Lee .22 is a fickle mold especially if it is a 6-cavity. I have an old style Lee Bator .22 in 2 cavity and it puts out great boolits immediately with 90%+ useable but then when I switch to the new model in 6-Cav.using the same batch of lead at the same temp., I will be lucky to get 50% useable unless I just use three of the six cavities which improves the usable to 75%. My 223 bolt gun likes the newer style mold at higher velocities but my Hornet prefers the old style at more leisurely MV's so I do both.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    sounds like you aare hot enough now, at least that my opinion
    An armed man in a citizen.
    An unarmed man is a subject.
    A disarmed man is a slave.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master




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    Well I figured out the problem.

    Sitting the tin close to the pot doesn't work. You actually have to put the tin in the pot.

    I went out today to give it a try and while getting ready I found the tin sitting next to the pot. Since I only have tin out when I refill the pot I realized that I had forgotten to put the tin in.

    So I got the melt going, added the tin. Got the mold hot and started casting.

    I did close to 600 with my two cavity and only had about 20 rejects. Most of those were problems with the base of the boolit.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasGrunt View Post
    Well I figured out the problem.

    Sitting the tin close to the pot doesn't work. You actually have to put the tin in the pot.

    I went out today to give it a try and while getting ready I found the tin sitting next to the pot. Since I only have tin out when I refill the pot I realized that I had forgotten to put the tin in.

    So I got the melt going, added the tin. Got the mold hot and started casting.

    I did close to 600 with my two cavity and only had about 20 rejects. Most of those were problems with the base of the boolit.
    Don't ya just hate that? been there and done stuff like it. you just KNOW you did it right just like a hundred times before and then you find the drain plug on the floor next to a puddle of oil! Oh well at least I didn't start it up!
    It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years (Abe Lincoln)

    "A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” George Washington

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    The aluminum jobs are really hard to regulate with .22s as they dissipate heat so darn fast. I can take a HP Lyman mould and cast as fast as I can and due to the time it takes to release the pin, you can cast all day and never get overheated. Same with the RCBS iron moulds but aluminum, you really have to work at to keep them up to casting temp./beagle
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  19. #19
    Boolit Master




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    I'm figuring that out. It's a constant balancing act with the 2 cavity Lee .22 cal mould. I did a bunch more casting today and just about everything that could go wrong did. Had to smoke the mold twice. Went from wrinkles to no wrinkles after smoking. Didn't even have to reheat the mold. Then I had both cavities having base problems. Keep heating up the sprue plate and that didn't help. Cleaned the entire mold and plate, smoked it again, heated it up and solved that problem.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master



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    To TIN or not to TIN,
    That is the question
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check