What if I added copper powder to my powder coat?
What if I added copper powder to my powder coat?
Ya I was thinking the same thing later in the day after I posted this I guess I’m going to try to dick around with plating
Last edited by maliveline; 05-08-2018 at 07:05 PM.
I had the same problem 'way back when the USAF issued me a High Standard 22 w/muzzle brake. What happens is that the rifling smears itty bitty tails on the bullets, and the tails get blown off as the bullet exits the bbl, to be deposited in the brake. Same situation in your case, I bet...
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first thing to do is to shoot some of your bullets into water and see if the coating is holding up. I recovered a bunch of pc bullets out of the snow bank this spring. Some done with smokes black and some with his brown. Some bullet designs looked like they were gas cut with bare lead showing. Much more prevalent with the brown then the black. None leaded the barrel but id about bet theyd lead up a can eventually. He has a new brown pc color that is suppose to be the toughest color he has. I bought some and will try it but it will be a while (thank God) before theres snow to shoot into again. Your problem might be cured with just a switch to a different powder.
So best to use JB or plated with a can? Inquiring minds need to know.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
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Interesting thread as I'm waiting on a couple form 4's...
I've put a lot of lead through cans. I switched to PC because it's so much cleaner than running lubed lead. Since switching my cleaning interval went from every 200-300 rounds to every few thousand. That's mostly pistol calibers through sub-guns, but includes a fair bit of subsonic and supersonic rifle as well.
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Apparently I’m not the only one with this question. I’m planning on just use it lubed boolits, it’s just too easy to live them with a star, I figure with a dab of super glue the gas checks aren’t going anywhere. Subscribed to this thread and when I get my can in a few months hopefully I can add more to the convo.
The can on my 300 blackout has seen at least 5K rounds, all of them cast and lubed. I specifically bought a serviceable can for this very reason, and I have cleaned a good bit of lead out of it. I just recently started using the Hi-Tek coating and am looking forward to seeing if it makes a difference in keeping my can clean.
FWIW most of my bullets have been checked and I’ve never found one inside the can.
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I’ve done some reading over at silencertalk. It seems that guys over there are having the same issues with hi-tek coating in a can as with powdercoating. Plated bullets work but plating your own bullets sucks in my opinion. I’m tossing around the idea adding copper powder to my powder coating or possibly even HBN. If I ever get around to it I will post the results here. If anyone else has solved this problem I would like to know about it. Also I heard someone talking about JB kind of curious bout what this is.
I'm over there and not having any issues with powder coated and my can. Few over there cast their own, they are usually buying them. Maybe Dellet and Rebel are casting and a handful of others. I'm about to try some hytek in my can when I can get a chance to get my sizer opened up some.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
Oh I had powder coated bullets going through my can no problem but once I cleaned it a little and started inspecting the blast baffle I could see a decent amount of lead build up after less than 150 rounds. You know it’s just a little lead and it probably doesn’t matter but I’m real up tight and I don’t want that **** in my can. Not too mention if you let it build up in there long enough it could start to effect performance.
I'm not quite sure what you're hoping to accomplish by adding copper to the PC.
I've put a lot of PC'd bullets through cans, and while there is still some residue, I've never had an issue with heavy buildup.
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I don’t know man I was getting quite a bit of leading with plain powder coat in my suppressor. Most people I have read about trying this were having the same issues and most people are running plated bullets through their suppressors to keep things working correctly.
Last edited by maliveline; 06-01-2018 at 12:20 AM.
I have an AR-9 with two uppers- one 16" and one 8.5". Both have the Yankee Hill flash hider for my Wraith can.
Even shooting without the suppressor, using Hi-tek coated bullets, the flash hider would get reside but the barrel was clean. I attributed this to the rifling cutting through the coating, then the gasses "blasting the particulates" onto the hider.
I switched to Smoke's PC and it went away. I've shot probably 500-1,000 rounds through it and it doesn't look excessively dirty.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |