Finally made some passable boolits

[jamesp81]

My first casting session was a disaster. Not a single boolit worth keeping. I was using a Lee 6 cavity .452 200gr SWC mold.

This is time I used the 2 cavity version of the same mold. I ended up with 95 boolits worth keeping. Dented a few of them dropping them into my bucket though.

The 2 cavity mold was easier to use ladle casting from a 10 lb pot.

I have a couple of questions.

1. Initially I put too much sprue plate lube on. I'm using 2 cycle engine oil. It migrated and got into the cavities. The cavities took on a brownish gold burnish. I stopped casting and cleaned the mold with that I had...dawn dish detergent followed up by rubbing alcohol. The burnish remained. I went ahead and relubed and went back to casting. No issues once the mold was hot enough and the boolits dropped at .452 just like they should. Should I worry about further cleaning?

2. Many of my boolits won't stand until straight sitting on their bases. Many of them have a small bump of lead left where the opening in the sprue plate is. Is this anything to worry about?

3. Should the sprue plate have any play? I'm noticing my sprue plate has a small bit of play...not much. Is this normal, or should think about tightening my plate down a bit?

4. Here's the big one...my lead dipper (Lyman). Molten lead dribbles down the dipper instead of pouring cleanly from the spout. I had lead running in a river off my mold and splashing back into the pot. I don't care for splashing when it's 700 degree lead. What can I do to mitigate this? I didn't start out on a bottom pour pot because I didn't want to deal with the mess of dripping, but this is way worse.

[maxreloader]

This is a captain obvious answer but is there anything blocking the flow of your alloy in the dipper spout? buildup, crud, anything? use the appropriate sized drill and hand-turn to get your spout back to "factory" spec. careful because most are cast and will fracture if you are forceful.

[pergoman]

I have only ever worked from a bottom pour pot so I know no different. The dripping has never been a problem for me. Sure, there are a few drips every casting session with my #20 Lee pot but it has never made a mess. I place one of my ingot molds on the base for the pot and a piece of wood with a slot cut in it directly under the pour spout. Any drips end up in the ingot mold.
I would say the sprue plate shouldn't have play in it. It should move freely and with a slight resistance. It should stay in the closed position when the mold is rotated and not flop open. The boolit bases should be as flat and smooth as possible for best accuracy.

[jamesp81]

I have only ever worked from a bottom pour pot so I know no different. The dripping has never been a problem for me. Sure, there are a few drips every casting session with my #20 Lee pot but it has never made a mess. I place one of my ingot molds on the base for the pot and a piece of wood with a slot cut in it directly under the pour spout. Any drips end up in the ingot mold.
I would say the sprue plate shouldn't have play in it. It should move freely and with a slight resistance. It should stay in the closed position when the mold is rotated and not flop open. The boolit bases should be as flat and smooth as possible for best accuracy.

besides the obvious minimal play in the sprue plate, what else could cause these little bumps on the boolit base?

[jamesp81]

This is a captain obvious answer but is there anything blocking the flow of your alloy in the dipper spout? buildup, crud, anything? use the appropriate sized drill and hand-turn to get your spout back to "factory" spec. careful because most are cast and will fracture if you are forceful.

lead frequently solidifies in it and crusts around it. No matter how long I leave the dipper in the melt it never melts off. Some always sticks.

The lead dribbles down the side of the dipper just like a 1 year old with a jar of baby food.

[OS OK]

Without pictures to help...I can only guess the sprue plate is cutting the sprue at the height it passes over the mold...indicating some space there.
If not that? waiting too long to cut and the plate flexes up as it cuts? Hey I'm spitwadding here...get that iPhone and shoot some pics.
If it was pronounced I wonder why you don't have flashing or skirts on the bases?

[jamesp81]

FYI...just checked my sprue plate. The screw had definitely worked loose. I tightened it lightly. Found out real quick...the threads are left handed. Makes sense now that I think about it, but wasn't expecting it.

Question on sprue plate lube. I apply a bit of 2 cycle engine oil at the beginning of every casting session. The stuff always ends up smoking and leaving residue. Am I still getting lubrication after this stuff more or less burns / scorches? If so...how does it work for anyone?

[jamesp81]

Without pictures to help...I can only guess the sprue plate is cutting the sprue at the height it passes over the mold...indicating some space there.
If not that? waiting too long to cut and the plate flexes up as it cuts? Hey I'm spitwadding here...get that iPhone and shoot some pics.
If it was pronounced I wonder why you don't have flashing or skirts on the bases?

Here are three pretty good ones. Most of them are actually pretty good:



Here are some rough ones:

[Cowboy_Dan]

As to your sprue lube, I use that smoking to indicate that my mould is up to temp. You should be able to feel when a new application is needed. It only takes a little.

[jamesp81]

As to your sprue lube, I use that smoking to indicate that my mould is up to temp. You should be able to feel when a new application is needed. It only takes a little.

I admit to being a bit paranoid about this. I've galled my first mold just a little from not doing it right...nothing too serious, it still works fine. But I get incensed when new equipment ends up with damage (even if it's inconsequential) right out of the gate. Call it a pet peeve.

[OS OK]

I come from a machine/factory background where we used steam...bolt threads would rust and become unserviceable so they used 'anti-seize'. A little goes a long way and lasts forever...A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY...heat doesn't affect it and it will not migrate everywhere...I've had it forever around the shop so I use it...I don't even know of a brand name sprue plate lube.

[high standard 40]

About the raised sprue cut on the base of the bullet. Are you cutting your sprues with a mallet or are you using a gloved hand?
I once had this issue and cured it by adjusting the length of time I waited between filling the mold and cutting the sprue. And also by using a gloved hand and applying a small amount of downward pressure on the sprue plate as I open it to cut the sprue. If you open the sprue plate too soon, you risk smearing lead. Wait too long and the sprue is hard to cut and more likely to leave the raised bump. Experiment with the wait time and pay attention to the results. You will find what your mold likes. As far as sprue plate lube. I use synthetic two stroke oil. I don't apply it until the mold is at operating temperature. I place a drop or two on a cotton swab. Fill the mold and cut the sprue but don't empty the mold. Leave the bullets in place. Apply the oil on the swab to the underside of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks. Don't put any too close to the edges of the mold cavities. Then use the dry end of the swab to wipe the surfaces to remove excess lube. A thin film is all you need. Then empty the mold and continue casting. Let us know if this helps.

[OS OK]

The cast on the bottom pic on the right looks like the sprue plate wasn't completely closed...it looks off center. They are all fine to shoot like that, no problem. The top pic looks fine.

[Hounddog]

I just had the same thing happen to me with a new 6 cav Lee 452-230-tc/tl mould that I was using. The screw that holds the sprue plate when the mould is closed had worked itself loose. Tightened it down with an appropriately sized combination wrench and the nubs went away. Those 6 cav 45 moulds drain the pot quick!! Be very miserly with the lube application. You will develop a feel for when the mould needs it!! Keep at it

hounddog

[stubert]

Put the sprue plate lube on with a q-tip. just a teeny drop and spread it out as thin as possible. I use 2 cycle synthetic.

[Yodogsandman]

A little piece of steel wool in the sprue plate screw hole will help to prevent it from working it's way out.

[Boolseye]

I heat my molds up 'til the sprue plate starts to smoke, too. In my view there us nothing more important than a hot mold. I always lube my molds at the end of the casting session (you know to lube the mold block top with lead in the mold, then wipe it dry with the clean end of the Q-tip?).

[Shiloh]

besides the obvious minimal play in the sprue plate, what else could cause these little bumps on the boolit base?

Wait a second or two longer before you cut the sprues.

Shiloh

[StratsMan]

JamesP.... By your own admission, you're just starting to cast... Casting is as much 'art' as it is science... You're still developing the 'feel' for casting, so cut yourself plenty of slack for your learning curve... It will take some time to find your technique.... Your second effort looks way better than my second effort...

Others have given key info... Make sure the sprue plate is tight, but moves freely.. And closed all the way, too... Experiment with temperature and pace to find the rhythm that gives you the best results... And don't be afraid to remelt the ones that don't look so good...

[TexasGrunt]

When ladle casting make sure you hold the mold at a 90 degree angle and put the spout of the ladle into the sprue hole. Then tilt both the ladle and mold upright. Then twist the ladle away from the mold.

Ladle casting a six cavity means three trips to the pot.

I started with the same six cavity mold, but with a bottom pour pot. I was getting 99% casts within minutes.

I can ladle pour my two cavity molds with no problems.