Swiss 1929 Revolver in 7.5 Swiss

[84mmcarl-gustav]

Hi,i justed got my hand on one,so will need cast boolit for it,any reference will help,since i gather all info i could get,thank you

[Tatume]

Reloading dies:
http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=157629

Some information:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/firearm...hread-1-a.html

Ammo is expensive:
http://www.ammo-one.com/75MMSWIS.html

Nice photo and description:
http://www.adamsguns.com/2630.htm

[reed1911]

Ammo and bullets both are rather inexpensive actually:
http://shop.reedsammo.com/75-Swedish-Nagant_c324.htm
53.00 per box of 50 on ammo and 15.00 per 50 on the bullets

[Tatume]

I guess expensive is a relative term.

[reed1911]

Well, true, but better than 2.00-3.00 a piece buying them from collector sites.

[Thumbcocker]

I think brass can be made from .32 mag. or .32 long.

[reed1911]

.32-20 cut off and sized in the FL die and trimmed to 0.890"

[swisscast]

For me reloading with cast for the Swiss 7.5mm revolver model 1929 was quite an interesting and satisfying project. Although these old service revolvers are abundant in Switzerland and quite inexpensive (200-300$), they are seldom seen at the gun range due to the high cost of the ammo - both the original black powder service round and the Fiocchi smokeless are either collectibles, unobtainable or way too costly.

I didn't want to use black powder. Smokescreens are not popular at the indoor range and I don't fancy the soapy water cleaning afterwards. Searching the internet in addition to the already cited sites I've found smokeless load data here:

http://www.vsms.org/Forum/Seite_23/f....5mmCH_Ord.htm

• .314/100gr H&N LRN copper plated , 3.4gr Bullseye, OAL 1.31" (described as "stout load"!)
• .314/100gr H&N WC HB teflon coated, 2.4gr Hodgdon HP38
• .314/85gr Norma LRN , 2.4gr Bullseye, OAL 1.20"
• .313/89gr Lyman 313249, 2.5gr Bullseye, OAL 1.18"
• .313/97gr Lyman 313445, 2.3gr Bullseye, OAL 1.16"

These smokeless loads are described as safe for type 1929 revolvers, not for the older 1882 revolvers which should be fired with black powder only - especially the first ones with the thinner top strap in the number range up to 17'000.

Lacking any suitable components at that time I've begun with obtaining .32 S&W Magtech cases by shooting 98grs WC factory ammo. Recoil and muzzle blast were nonexistent, accuracy marginal and one out of fifty cases split. As expected using factory .32 S&W WC mouse fart loads in a 1929 is possible, but not really satisfying. Next these cases were loaded with the three then to me available "boolits":

• Mihec 312 69 HP
• Lee C309-120-R (w/o check)
• Lee 311-100-2R

Bullets were cast using different alloys, resulting in a hardness range form 8 to 16HB, sized to .313 in a Lee push through and LLA coated. Resizing the cases was done with a .30 Carbine die and a .223 shell holder. Starting loads ranging from 2.3 to 2.6gr Unique, N320 and N340 were tested. The worst - almost catastrophic- result was obtained with the 69gr HP / 2.3gr Unique combination: this load was so weak, that one of the bullets didn't manage to exit the muzzle. It got stuck in the barrel about one inch below the crown. I was very fortunate to realise this mishap prior to sending the next bullet on it's (short) way. Best accuracy with the .32 S&W cases was achieved with the soft (8HB) Lee 100gr RN above 2.6gr N320 at an OAL of 1.23". However case life was limited due to frequent splits.

At that time .32-20 Win Starline cases and a .32-20 Lee die set arrived so I switched my load development towards the new brass. Another possibly suitable mould, a Lee TL314-90-SWC, had also miraculously found it's way into my rapidly expanding collection. At the end of this development cycle the following two loads have emerged as my standard for the 1929:

• Lee 311-100-2R, 3.1gr N320, OAL 1.47"
• Lee TL314-90-SWC, 3.1gr N320, OAL 1.47"

I use the .32-20 Win cases untrimmed, calibrate with a .30 Carbine die, flare with a Lee universal expander die, seat the (unsized, LLA'd) bullets with the seating die from the same Lee set and use the Lee FCD to apply a distinct crimp. With the OAL of the cartridge close to the cylinder length you do not want any bullet pull during the - albeit very weak - recoil. With both loads I manage to keep all shots at point of aim within a 3" circle at 10 yards unsupported, which is good enough for me.



By the way - while I'm reloading since the 80's, I've begun casting only 6 years ago. The idea was being able to shoot more while saving money. The latter part of the plan didn't materialise. I'm now proud operator of more than 60 different moulds and the priorities of the hobby have completely changed. Guns have become mere tools for testing out new "boolit" / load combinations, turning this formerly innocent pastime into a serious - and highly addictive - succession of development loops. I'd like to thank all of the forum members for the wealth of input gathered here!

[reed1911]

With the proper heel based bullets you can hold that same accuracy at 20-25yds. The mold I had made I had Accurate molds draw up and it is in the catalog as 32-115H. Works just wonderfully.

For anyone not familiar with the revolvers, if you have ever held a Russian Nagant, the build is similar but like a custom shop made it. They are very smooth very well built guns and a wonderful addition to any collection.

[columrick]

I slugged a 1929 Swiss revolver, and it's .308. Narrowest portion of slug measured apr .297. I was fortunate to find some old Norma Swedish Nagant ammo, and the bullet diameter measures .325 without scraping off the wax lube, so I'll assume in reality somewhere around .323 or .324. I've read the Swiss and Swede revolver ammo is interchangeable, but that is a substantial difference in bullet diameter.