Need lathe advise.

[GONRA]

GONRA realizes that tiny nr. drills are best purchased in packets of 10 and "used up".

BUT - years ago, for yet another "pointless retired man project" made an "eccentric spindle indexer"
for my SB 10K lathe. Just screws on the spindle.
Two 1 inch - 40 thread screws "clamp" sliding cross key with 5/8 hole
to get desired eccentricity needed for grinding radial clearances.

5/8 shank ER-16 and ER-20 chuck holders hold the small drill, end mill, tap, etc. too be ground.
Sounds like a crappy design, BUT has no practical drill shank length restriction and can handle 1, 2, 3, 4 flute cutters.

45 X Skoda centering scope in tailstock is used for initial flute/lip angular line up.
Use a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder with quick change on lathe compound to get point geometry/angle.

Have sharpened 25 mil drills in this setup, made "drill mills" out of 3 lip end mills, etc.

Really can't burn the part since there is great heat transfer cooling the rotating part.

Yeah, its Pretty Pointless. But will come in handy if the firing pin in my Bernadelli .22 RF Long vest pocket pistol ever breaks!

[Traffer]

How about we do a Vulcan Mind Meld and I absorb all of your knowledge.
Alas my head would explode.

GONRA realizes that tiny nr. drills are best purchased in packets of 10 and "used up".

BUT - years ago, for yet another "pointless retired man project" made a "eccentric spindle indexer"
for my SB 10K lathe. Just screws on the spindle.
Two 1 inch - 40 thread screws "clamp" sliding cross key with 5/8 hole
to get desired eccentricity needed for grinding radial clearances.

5/8 shank ER-16 and ER-20 chuck holders hold the small drill, end mill, tap, etc. too be ground.
Sounds like a crappy design, BUT has no practical drill shank length restriction and can handle 1, 2, 3, 4 flute cutters.

45 X Skoda centering scope in tailstock is used for initial flute/lip angular line up.
Use a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder with quick change on lathe compound to get point geometry/angle.

Have sharpened 25 mil drills in this setup, made "drill mills" out of 3 lip end mills, etc.

Really can't burn the part since there is great heat transfer cooling the rotating part.

Yeah, its Pretty Pointless. But will come in handy if the firing pin in my Bernadelli .22 RF Long vest pocket pistol ever breaks!

[alfloyd]

GONRA:

How about a print, photo or something to make my little mind absorb the info about the sharpener.

Lafaun

[country gent]

Another little trick is if the tail stock is adjustable. Put the drill chuck in with a 4-6" rod and indicate it in straight to travel with the compound also you might want to check tailstocks height to head stock. Getting the tail stock straight saves trying to bend the drill as its fed into the work.

[GONRA]

GONRA appreciates Traffer & alfloyh's kind comments.
Will strive to post fotos after cleaning up some sudden 2016 Income Tax "corrected 1099 form" Zingers.
(Have to do it all over again..... !@#$%^)

In the mean tyme, "didit the easy way"
Purchased a 1 inch -40 TPI tap and die. (Not sure where to get this cheaply anymore.)
Tapped 1-40 thru (aluminum bar stock) Eccentric Spindle Indexer Body - whole diameter in multiple passes.
Be careful to NOT "blast away - such an EZ tapping job" but do a little and
CLEAN OUT THE !@#$% CHIPS FREQUENTLY or you WILL TEAR OUT THE TINY MICROMETER PITCH THREADS.

Similar for the 1-40 (steel drill rod) screws.
Best to Single Point Thread on yer Trusty Lathe and finishup with the 1-40 die.
CLEAN OFF THE !@#$% CHIPS FREQUENTLY or you WILL TEAR OUT THE TINY MICROMETER PITCH THREADS.
Adjust everything for a selective fit on the 1-40 tapped hole in the body.

[farmbif]

I have had good luck buying cobalt bits in large lots on ebay. I got 2 gray dispenser boxes filled with USA made bits for not too much money I think it was about $150 for both of them and now have a lifetime supply of super high quality M42 fractional bits. also got a big box of stepped cobalt bits surplus from boeing that are truely awesome will never go back to the HF or cheapo chinese stuff, for just a little more $ you can get high quality Cleveland, CTD, KEO , Dormer and the like. Also got bulk lots of quality spotting and center drills, reamers and other goodies

[GONRA]

05/(pre)16/2017 - Art’s “Posting Photos From Your Hard Drive” instructions, minor editing,
with GONRA’s problems. Need you experts to edit in the CURRENT stuff. THANX!

This is the easy way to post photos from your Hard Drive.
You are in Cast Boolits; you want to post a photo.

Start a new topic if you like or simply click on 'Reply' to whatever topic you are discussing.

Type in explanation or discussion you want to post in the usual dialog box.

Then scroll down lower on page to "Manage Attachments", Click on it
(05/17/2017 At this point, GONRA had to click on “GO ADVANCED” to see
“Manage Attachments”, then clicked on that.)

A box will drop down.

In the box click "Browse"; that will open up your photos from YOUR hard drive.
(05/17/2017 GONRA didn’t see any “Browse” in the box or anywhere else. Hmmmm.
So am STUCK here – need advice from ya’ll. Thanx!)

Select the one you want and left click on it.

Your photos will go away and the previous screen will reappear,
the one with 'Browse' on it.

It also has 'Upload' on it which you will now left click.
Watch filler bar at the bottom of that screen until your photo is finished uploading.
It is automatically coded into the post you are preparing to make.
You are now back to the page where you typed your message.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click 'Submit' as you usually do.
It is done.

[Little Oak]

Probably a bit late with this reply but just joined today.
Grade 5 bolt hits me hard - bolts are generally forged and I have found tend to have hard bits (break drills?). If I need a 'bolt' that needs a hole I tend to machine one up from hex from stuff I know is consistent.
Speed at 600 RPM should be OK with a bit of gentleness.
You should really know pretty soon into it if your drill is sharp, should get good lengths of swarf, not little bits, in most machinable steels.
I don't bother with any kind of coolant til I get up to about 3/4" as it can cause problems, using reasonable care it's not necessary with manual machines and doesn't really extend the drill life significantly.
Once past 3x drill diameters deep you MUST woodpecker the drill bit every 1/16" or so to remove swarf as it can't clear it otherwise and will jam (break!).
Parabolics are for easy flowing swarf materials like brass, cast iron and tend to 'run out' on steel. Stick to standard jobbers and if they melt get different workpiece material.
Good luck and happy turning.

[ProfGAB101]

I have bought alot from Harbor Freight - but any of the drill bits I won't trust to work in anything harder than drywall.

[Mauser 98K]

yea, for deep holes you will need a lube or it will get very hot and ruin the bit and try to seize in the hole.. also turning too fast will burn the tip of the bit no matter how much oil or lube you use, for high speed you'll need a steady supply of coolant to keep the bit cool.. also, even though the bit is designed and it is meant to clear the hole of shavings itself it is sometimes a good idea with deep holes to back the bit out from time to time.. i have seen the shavings pack up around the bit and bind it in the hole and that will cause it to snap.. id back the RPMs off to around 350rpm or so and back the bit out from time to time to clear the hole... the way i do it is if the sound changes (squeaking or chirping) or i see the bit flex a little ill just loosen the tails stock and pull the drill out to clear the hole, squirt a little oil on the bit and shove it back in the hole..

but as for the grade 5 bolt being forged.. no.. the threads are usually rolled and the head might be swaged but the rest of the bolt is usually fine.. i have cut grade 8 bolts with no problem, that is what i make my swage dies out of.. if you find the bolt or material too hard you can anneal it and that will normalize the thing all the way through and make it machinable. just take it up to a good red in a dark room and cool it slowly.. to be sure you could bury it in dry sand and let it cool slowly that way. the sand holds the heat in and it cools slower.. you want it a good dark room so you can see if all the shadows are out of it and to make sure you do not get it too hot. this is what nobody really knows anymore about the "color is subjective" nonsense.. color is subjective with varying ambient light. the brighter the light the hotter the metal must be to look red, the darker the light the cooler it is when it is red.. this is why when heat treating or annealing you want to do it in a dark room so when it is red it is usually correct..if your seeing sparks coming off it that is too hot and your burning the metal. if there is flakes coming off it that is oxide/slag and that is burning the metal.. but you can also use a magnet to determine Curie point. just heat it up in the dark room till it looks red and if a small magnet will not stick then that is a good heat, if it will stick then it needs more heat. the Curie point is the point at which the metal becomes nonmagnetic. this is why most induction heaters will not heat steel past a certain point, as the magnetic properties of the steel diminish.. but this should make it soft as butter and easy to machine..

[smokeywolf]

Mouser 98K said,

you want it a good dark room so you can see if all the shadows are out of it and to make sure you do not get it too hot. this is what nobody really knows anymore about the "color is subjective" nonsense.. color is subjective with varying ambient light. the brighter the light the hotter the metal must be to look red, the darker the light the cooler it is when it is red.. this is why when heat treating or annealing you want to do it in a dark room so when it is red it is usually correct.

If you're heat treating by color, I too follow this method.

Not sure if it's true or not but, I read that this is what happened to the '03 Springfield receivers. Heat treating by color in a building that had unmasked windows.

[Traffer]

You gotta make sure it's sharp to begin with. Then, feeding by hand, watch your pressure and the chips coming out. These two things will indicate to you if you are starting to have problems before you "pulverize" your drill bit. I am curious as to what you mean by pulverize. That usually means to make something into dust. I can't imaging that happening. Since we cannot see what you are talking about you have to describe it very accurately.

[just bill]

Anyone with a Logan 200 lathe have any idea what the compound Gibb screw size is? No description in the manual. Tore up a tool holder and carbide end mill trying to make a case trimming jig. The Gibb screws were not installed which helped in the destruction of an end mill.
Thanks,
Bill

[just bill]

Anyone with a Logan 200 lathe have any idea what the compound Gibb screw size is? No description in the manual. Tore up a tool holder and carbide end mill trying to make a case trimming jig. The Gibb screws were not installed which helped in the destruction of an end mill.
Thanks,
Bill

Thanks, I got the answer I asked for.
Bill