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Thread: Svarog Russian slug molds?

  1. #161
    Boolit Buddy jkcerda's Avatar
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    Had my pot on 8. No problems once things got nice and hot , took about 15-20 fir things to start rolling nice and easy
    Feed back thread

  2. #162
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    No problem with fill out once it gets hot. I have found with the core pins on both my Italian mold and the paradox mold needed a polishing. They both had very small ridges around the pins. I polished with 600 grit, 1000 grit then #0000 steel wool. Inside the cavity of my Italian slug core pin was rough and needed polishing as well. I am now getting good release. Every 20 slugs or so I give the core pin a quick spray with silicone spray

  3. #163
    Boolit Master
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    My first Zveroboys didn't fly straight. Maybe a 3" hull next time... many variables.

    Attachment 235304

    The pin for these segmented ones likes some smoke every now and then.

  4. #164
    Boolit Buddy jkcerda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    My first Zveroboys didn't fly straight. Maybe a 3" hull next time... many variables.

    Attachment 235304

    The pin for these segmented ones likes some smoke every now and then.
    how far did you shoot?
    Feed back thread

  5. #165
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkcerda View Post
    how far did you shoot?
    About 20 yds offhand,this was a pressure test only. But they are keyholing.

  6. #166
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The Paradox slugs that KrackenFan69 sent me to try out flew straight and true making nice round holes at 50 yards but accuracy was not spectacular. They are somewhat undersize in my bore though. I knurled some up then sized back to suit my bore ~ exact fit. Yet to be shot though.

    How well do yours fit your bore?

    I'd have to check for sure but I think the ones I shot were 0.727" so undersize in my 0.733" bore. They were a rattle fit in my bore anyway. They'd be close for my Slugster which slugs at 0.729" but even then a thou or two over would be better than a thou or two under I think.

    I will say that the load was reasonably stout butthose tail wads and gas seals were in very good shape.

    Longbow

  7. #167
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post

    How well do yours fit your bore?
    .

    A little too tight,005-007 oversize for my cyl m3 barrel. But with my "economy load" (re-filled 1oz trap loads) everything seemed and measured ok.

    I wonder if BPI holder clamp is strong enough for this idea? I only cut the rolled edge,need a steady holder that is easy and fast to use. And safe.

    Attachment 235355.

    I even used the trap wads,cut the petals and screwed the slugs on after crimping.

  8. #168
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    OK guys: I tried again last night and after about 30 attempts with the plug in wad mould pin I just gave up. Once again I had several drops that had to be melted off the pin Out of all that I got about 5 "close to good" slugs. not what I'm used to seeing.

    I switched to the simple tapered pin that uses no attached wad.

    That produced good boolits from the get go but only with my pot turned up past 825 F,,, heavily frosted so they will take PC well. NO problems getting that pin out as it is very tapered with no internal detail. Slugs just dropped off when removed from mould. Consistent 626 gr.

    As I started turning the temp down they went to ship! Lead has to be above 800 F or the mould won't fill out.

    The machined finish on the mould and pins is excellent, even by my standards.

    The problem I see with the Plug in Wad pin is the center hole which generates at post in the cavity of the slug. I think that is what is hanging up and not allowing the pin to release. Too much internal detail.

    If you look at the Gualandi Slugs which actually have Gualandi Lettering cast onto them, they have the same internal detail,,, However those slugs are "Pressure Cast" in a different kind of mould similar to die casting.

    The Screw on Wad pin released pretty much all the time and since it doesn't have the interior detail of the other pin. I still have to chuck up these slugs to drill out the hole larger so a #8 screw will go thru, which is an extra step but doing them 100 at a time won't be too bad.

    With wheel weight material this mould is dropping right at .725 consistently. Maybe I should try pure lead.?

    What amazes me is how a $25 Lee Mould which is arguably as complex in the interior detail as any of the other moulds out there, can cast PERFECT SLUGS !!! from about the 3rd pour on, with absolutely no problems whatsoever?

    How can this be? I think it is the 2024 Series Aluminum that is used for the Lee Mould Blocks. 2024 is high silicon content and can't be welded. Thus things don't stick to it very well. Maybe?

    Randy
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	235354  
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  9. #169
    Boolit Master
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    I can give my Paradox report pretty soon I think. The mould is on its way,couldn't help.

    Funny that I didn't know anything about these Svarog molds until I stumbled here,in this shotgun subforum. I was supposed to build some tungsten loads... but I got carried away. I really like loading and casting for shotguns, I don't know what it is because 95% of my hunting is with rifles.

    I even mailed RSI about their Pressure Trace system the other day...

  10. #170
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    Randy you are right about the Lee slug moulds! Both mine cast perfectly and even after altering the core pin to add a post. My complaint with the Lees is that the 7/8 oz. mould has slightly smaller nose than the 1 oz. and both have too much taper... in my opinion anyway.

    They both shoot okay as cast and better with added hot melt glue tail wad. We'll see how they shoot "Brenneke'ized! Once the weather breaks anyway.

    I will be testing some more Paradox slugs too from the lot that KrackenFan69 sent me ~ as cast for the Slugster and knurled then sized to bore for my fat bore single shot.

    I am a bit surprised the Paradox slugs don't cast to nominal 0.729" at least.

    The wads don't fit in real tight but no indications that they come off the slugs in flight. I tried using some silicone adhesive inside the pin hole just to make sure but that didn't make any difference. Stuff doesn't stick well to smooth lead!

    Yes, slug shooting is addictive! Amazingly so!

    Longbow

  11. #171
    Boolit Master swamp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    .

    A little too tight,005-007 oversize for my cyl m3 barrel. But with my "economy load" (re-filled 1oz trap loads) everything seemed and measured ok.

    I wonder if BPI holder clamp is strong enough for this idea? I only cut the rolled edge,need a steady holder that is easy and fast to use. And safe.

    Attachment 235355.

    I even used the trap wads,cut the petals and screwed the slugs on after crimping.

    How about a 3/4 ID piece of PVC pipe cut to length? Use a razor knife to trim.
    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  12. #172
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by swamp View Post
    How about a 3/4 ID piece of PVC pipe cut to length? Use a razor knife to trim.
    swamp
    That's what I have used. It's okay for a box or two. I'm trying to get this consistent and fast now.

  13. #173
    Boolit Buddy jkcerda's Avatar
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    roll crimpers, where did you guys get them? anywhere else besides BPI?
    anyone has this one?
    http://slugsrus.com/product90.html
    Feed back thread

  14. #174
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Possibly a modified prepper crimp cutter would work for you:

    https://www.bnk.wiki/mountain-storm/xsZet0Tyj5E.html

    I think you are looking to cut on the outer diameter just below the existing crimp but moving the blade down and turning it 90 degrees shouldn't be difficult.

    If you scroll through to about 1 min. 30 sec. the guy uses the tool "open" with just thumb pressure to hold the blade and hand twisting.

    I'm thinking a block of wood with a blind hole just larger diameter than the hull and with a band saw blade slot at the blind end... easier to sketch it than talk about it:

    HULL CRIMP REMOVER.pdf

    Turning the hull by hand shouldn't be hard but for doing a bunch it would be better to have a system to push against the hull maybe the conical type for the European roll crimper Ranchdog posted?

    Just a thought anyway.

    Longbow
    Attached Files Attached Files

  15. #175
    Boolit Master swamp's Avatar
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    I got my roll crimper off Amazon. Forrest Camping is the seller. Out of Russia. I like mine. Nothing fancy and works well. I also got the 20 ga. crimper and shell holder.
    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  16. #176
    Boolit Master
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    Sort of success with Zveroboy HP version here.

    I made my usual "economy slugs" by re-filling a factory 1 oz trap round. I cut the petals,crimped the round and then screwed the slug on tight. 30 yards,standing,open sights M3 cyl bore. 1150 fps.

    Attachment 235495

    Attachment 235496.

    Target was leaning back, the oval holes came mostly from that I think.

  17. #177
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    Randy I had the exact same problem as you. My slugs were not releasing from my core pin either.
    You need to polish the cavity in the core pin. Wrap a drill bit or screw driver with 1000 grit sandpaper and get that cavity nice and smooth then use #0000 steel wool. Trust me it worked my slugs drop off with minimal effort now. I explained this in post #162

  18. #178
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    Also I found up to half lead half wheel weights release. Any more wheel weight and it is harder to remove the slug.
    75% lead 25% wheel weight with a bit of tin worked great. I water dropped them and they hardened up a bit.
    Let that core pin cool periodically or that center post of lead will break off in the cavity of the core pin and you have to melt it out.
    I am getting best results by turning the core pin as I'm pulling the slug off.
    These are just my findings with these molds.

  19. #179
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    I will try these suggestions later tonight. Was about to try some Tin in the mix but right now I'm using strait wheel weights.

    I pains me that I have moulds that work perfectly every time, and then ones that are cantankerous and promote frustration.

    Life goes on.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  20. #180
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    Also use spray graphite or silicone spray on the core pin. It is needed to keep your frustration to a minimum haha

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check