Svarog Russian slug molds?

[Wiley D]

You should try a nitro card wad under the slug to stop wads from pushing into the cavity. I like 16 ga. in my Winchester shotcups.
I see you are a new member here! Welcome aboard!

Thanks for the welcome. I've been lurking for quite a while. You and a few other guys here have given me lots of info, for which I'm grateful. I'm using 16 gauge 1/8" nitro cards under the slugs. They fit the 12S4 wads nicely. I got to playing around on Strelok (phone app ballistic calculator, accurate for my rifles, and I recommend it highly) and noticed that with a ballistic coefficient guesstimate of 1.2 and an 1100 fps muzzle velocity a 488 grain slug will still have enough oomph (953 lbf) to take a deer easily at 100 yards, which is what I'm after. They should also be pretty easy on the shoulder. And it starts subsonic, so it won't have that tendency to tumble when it slows past the sound barrier. All this means Kiddo can shoot them, too. I'd like for both of us to be able to use the same slugs. I'll be giving up some performance, but I'm willing to make that tradeoff.

I wish I could find a load for that Accurate #5 for a slug that's over 1 ounce. It ought to be great for an ounce and an eighth slug.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Wiley: I was going to recommend about 20 gr Green Dot +/- for a lighter load but you figured it out on your own.

I started with Pumpkin Balls .662 in my regular trap loads for a solution to getting the snot knocked out of me by High Base Slug loads (1610fps) I bought on sale at Walmart years ago. Only fired 2 of those..

My regular trap loads are AA hulls with 20.5 gr of Greendot, WAA12 clone wad, with a 1/4" felt wad under the ball and then fold crimp closed.

I use the same load with the Lyman Slug and a Blue Claybuster Wad.

Also with the Lee 1 oz. slug which turns out nice from their inexpensive moulds.

Welcome to the game!

Randy

[jkcerda]

got it today

[Wiley D]

got it today

You got the spiffy retro green box I wanted. Let us know how it casts.

[longbow]

That looks pretty nice!

[jkcerda]

You got the spiffy retro green box I wanted. Let us know how it casts.

sadly it's going to be a few weeks, I am off to Chicago tomorrow for class and back again on Feb 10.
I don't see myself trying it for a month or 2

[Petander]

Got the "Sveroboy" today with two plugs.

Attachment 234882

[gpidaho]

Got the "Sveroboy" today with two plugs.

Attachment 234882

Me too. Picked it up at the Post Office this afternoon. Nice looking mould. Gp

[Petander]

Me too. Picked it up at the Post Office this afternoon. Nice looking mould. Gp

It took me a moment to figure out how to get the sticking (still cold) plug out of the slug. You move the hardened slug in the mould down to the "next slot" and close the mold again to pull the plug out. The fragmented one sticks pretty good at first. Some smoke and proper temp made it release fine.

I like the idea, this is not fast but works. The round HP plug is easy.

I asked the seller about these wads but no reply yet:

Attachment 234918

[W.R.Buchanan]

Yeah; I figured it out after I made 100 slugs,,, And then read the instructions.

Those wads on that slug are the exact same as the Gualandi BRP18 (white)or BRP20 (green) wads.

http://www.gualandi.it/en/products_p...allettoni.html

Also available in White as BW 12 from BPI. https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Or...tinfo/072BW12/

I am still waiting for my "plug in wads" from Russia so I can load some of those slugs. Gualandi makes those as well, but won't sell them separately from their slugs. They say there is some Patent issue that prevents separating the slug from the wad for independent sale. BPI told me the same thing as they have tried to buy them separately as well.

Apparently the Russians are knocking those off.

The Paradox slug mould I have has one Mould pin that generates a hole in the center of the slug and then the slug is attached to that wad with a wood screw. Yours works the same way I'm sure.

That segmented slug is going to make a mess out of whatever it hits. !!!

The third pic below was a Thunderbolt Slug Made by Gualandi 1 3/8 oz. I was given 5 of them at SHOT a few years ago by the Rep for Gualandi. It uses the same wad as BPI DGS slug which is also made by Gualandi, or the "Special" Russian Slug shown in the first pic.

The Russians cleverly made their slug moulds so several different moulds use the same mould pins and wads, and their method of extracting the stuck mould pin actually works really well.

Randy

[Petander]

Yeah; I figured it out after I made 100 slugs,,, And then read the instructions.

.

What instructions... Oh there it is! Haha! I thought it was all safety something,lead warnings... so of course I didn't read it either until now.

Real men don't read instructions!

Good wad info,thank you.

[longbow]

Randy:

I got to say I like that screw through the nose into the wad below! Very clever! And using a readily available wad too! I am liking that. I do still have concerns about those cushion legs being fairly long and flexible though as any significant distortion will lead to inaccuracy by steering the slug.

All in all though a good idea to tuck away and try. It has benefits over screwing in from the base in that with my felt and plastic washer attached wads on my Brenneke'ized Lee slugs if the felt compresses much at firing then the screw head could jam into the bottom of the shotcup and hang up. Alternately with a full bore slug then that hole is a point for gas leakage and from having tried screwing wads on from underneath I can say for sure that happens!

I like the nose entry idea.

Yeah... instructions... Pffffff... who needs them until its either broken or beyond frustration? "I got this!" "Here hold my beer and watch this!"

Longbow

[Wiley D]

Got the "Sveroboy" today with two plugs.

What diameter are those dropping? I'm not greatly into the idea of the segmenting slug for hunting, as I think it would ruin lots of meat, but the hollow point might be interesting.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I drilled 100 of these tonight with a 1/16" drill right thru the center on my lathe. This a pilot hole for the #6 or #8 screw I'm going to find tomorrow 7/8" long. I want as much screw thread as possible in the plastic so making the hole small is the way to get that. The screw will push the plastic out of the way. All these wads appear to be made out of Polyethylene.

For information these wads are nearly symmetrical IE: both ends are the same except one end was where the injection occurred. There is a tit right in the center of that end and below that under the top layer the is a little gob of plastic that will enhance the grip on the screw threads. I drilled right thru that tit and gob.

I held the wad in a 3/4" collet that I squeezed down to grab the ring right below the gas seal. I tried a 23/32 collet but the gas seal wouldn't go thru it so I had to improvise by squishing the 3/4"collet down farther. The drill had no problem centering and went right thru.

I may have to trim the gas seal lip off the end that the slug sits on as it appears that it will be hard for the screw to stay centered thru the base of the slug which is open.

We'll see how they assemble.

Randy

[Blood Trail]

I got a couple thousand of those green wads from a guy in German. Loaded up a bunch and the all keyholed except for the ones I loaded with Longshot.

At 50 yards, they were still accurate even with the keyholing. I suspect the wad is too long causing unstable flight. I have some BP18’s I’ll try next.












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[Petander]

BT, thanks for the report.

I have BP18's right here. They have higher cup walls than the green ones in the pic, I'd prefer lower walls for proper,solid seating of the screwed-in slug. With BP18 I find it easy to seat slugs crooked because there will be some empty space under the slug.

Attachment 234977

Attachment 234978

[W.R.Buchanan]

Yes I saw that too with mine, and will probably have to trim the seal lip on the slug end down with an Exacto Knife.

It is raining like hell here today, so I get some time to play.

Randy

[Petander]

Two 20 gauge overshot cards under the right side slug.

Attachment 234984

The left side slug with no cards shows how the wad is coming on top of the last driving band.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I ended up putting some back in the lathe and trimming the seal lip back by scraping it with a razor blade. I thought about using a card under the slug but the 16 ga ones I have are two big to fit inside the seal lips so trimming the seal lips down seemed like a better solution.

This first batch of slugs I did look like poo, and I may end up melting them down. I ran the mould way too hot and the slugs are heavily frosted and are not perfectly formed. The rear ends of lots of them are deformed and will not fly strait no matter what. Lots of them were deformed when they were dropped as they weren't fully hardened.

I also had to drill the screw holes out in the slugs so that a #8 screw would fit. As far as alignment of the Slugs to the Wads, it is as close to perfect as we will see.

After I make some more and get good ones I will powder coat them and then assemble them. That should take them up to right at .730 which will be plenty big for the rifled barrel to get a grip on. I will also try them in my Cylinder Bore M500 House Gun at 50 yards but am not expecting too much. Even if they tumble end over end, whatever they hit will be devastated.

For this style slug I've got the wad prep beat, Just a matter of getting some decent slugs to attach to them.

I'll do better next time.

Still waiting for my plug in wads to arrive from Russia. I guess the 7 day shipping I got on the moulds is not applicable to the wads.

Randy

[Petander]

Mine drop around .728-730, the front band is largest. My alloy is 16 BHN, I'm lazy to change it. Maybe should get another pot...

Smooth cylinder barrel here, on the tight side... the slug can be pushed in backwards (by hand) with the rear .721 band first,going snug, but the front band will not go. Sounds like a good fit,no? I like the narrow front band idea.

Attachment 234999