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Thread: Svarog Russian slug molds?

  1. #301
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Svarog Russian slug molds?

    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    Nice looking casts. But this is showing the wad seated to what we call "the second click". This is easily done and I have no problem seating my own to this level.

    Look at the slug on the left. See that pocket/ledge in the very bottom? Now look carefully at the wad. It has a corresponding protrusion that should fit into that pocket. But when you seat the slug deep enough for this to mate, the slug cracks.

    Look at the pictures of mine. The wads are fully seated with no gap at the bottom such as yours has.

    Would you do me a favor and seat a couple of yours all the way deep like mine, and tell me if they crack too??

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    My mold is the first generation. You have the second design. I seat my all the wad down. They don’t crack.

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  2. #302
    Boolit Master
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    I bought my mold direct from Russia two years ago.

    I didn't know there had been mold changes/versions. Can you elaborate?

    Thanks!
    Vettepilot
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    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    I bought my mold direct from Russia two years ago.

    I didn't know there had been mold changes/versions. Can you elaborate?

    Thanks!
    Vettepilot
    There’s two major Russian mold companies: Svarog and AS-Bullet Molds.

    I believe Svarog (you’ll have to check on their website), had a couple changes to their molds: the Sverboy and the Italian (fire hydrant) slugs.


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  4. #304
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah. I've been dealing with Svarog only. It's my understanding that the only mold changed had been the Paradox, but who knows.

    I'm getting some new core pins to experment with changing how they cast that step at the bottom of the slug. That step currently casts at over .014" SMALLER DIAMETER than the corresponding step that mates with it on the wad. That's far too much of an interference fit, even for lead and plastic.

    So, I'll go to work with the core pins once they arrive, and let you know how it goes.

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  5. #305
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Today shot some SVAROG 108-grain wasp-waisted slugs sent to me by GPIdaho.

    These were loaded in .38-40 brass with no wads and shot in my H&R cylinder bore .410 Garden Gun at 25 yards. I will try again in .410 brass to see if reducing the "jump" helps, but .425 round balls similarly loaded in .44-40 cases group much better than this.

    Attachment 275356Attachment 275357
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  6. #306
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    I think the only changes was to nose of the hydrant slugs. Everyone at first had to grind off part of the nose to get a good roll crimp

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    I think the only changes was to nose of the hydrant slugs. Everyone at first had to grind off part of the nose to get a good roll crimp
    That and they went to smaller driving bands.


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  8. #308
    Boolit Man
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    How long is it actually taking to get these slug molds from Russia?

  9. #309
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    I think the only changes was to nose of the hydrant slugs. Everyone at first had to grind off part of the nose to get a good roll crimp
    Accurate 42-146H has solid skirt and slightly different shape:

    Attachment 277791

    42-146H loaded in .44-40 brass and shot in cylinder bore .410 garden gun at 25 yards.

    Attachment 277792

    .38-40 and .44-40 cowboy loads fired likewise:

    Attachment 277796Attachment 277793Attachment 277794

    NOW round ball in .44-40 brass!

    Attachment 277795

    Now India .410 Ball Mk1 Attachment 277797

    I'm sticking to a soft lead round ball not to exceed 0.005" larger than choke diameter.
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  10. #310
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    I'm going to get to my 410 one of these days. I got a bunch of 444 brass I have been saving just for this

  11. #311
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by passgas55 View Post
    How long is it actually taking to get these slug molds from Russia?
    The last ones I got from Russia took about six weeks but that was at least a year ago. The last one I purchased was from TheReloadersNetwork.com and it took about ten days to arrive. Gp

  12. #312
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    I enjoyed reading all those comments by you all, still feel we are being ripped off and should be able to choose any two molds for $100 or $120 the most with faster shipping.
    Lee can make Aluminum slug mold in US for $18 plus, should we all not write to Lee Precision, I think so.


    The above two a great candidate for Brenneke style design




    They are not brass molds, only aluminum molds just like Lee Precision.

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    Last edited by SuperBlazingSabots; 03-05-2021 at 08:14 PM.

  13. #313
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Any targets? Are they stable????I'll
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  14. #314
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    When those Russian molds first came here they were like $60 Delivered. You can still get the AS molds cheap from them on Facebook. I think they are about $80 Now.

    Hate to say it but you are way off on us getting ripped off. Try to make it yourself. Then tell us how much it cost. Machinery, knowledge, and time are expensive.

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Collimators View Post
    I think this is really interesting as the original Brenneke slugs had a cork wad attached:



    (Sorry for resurrecting an old thread)

  16. #316
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Those aren't cork wads on the Brenneke, they are some kind of hard card wads top and bottom and a hard felt like material between. Not sure if it is super dense felt or felt impregnated with something but it is felt like.

    Longbow

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    Those aren't cork wads on the Brenneke, they are some kind of hard card wads top and bottom and a hard felt like material between. Not sure if it is super dense felt or felt impregnated with something but it is felt like.

    Longbow

    Ah good point. Be interested to know if the cork would work though…

  18. #318
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    Those cork wads look a little rough to me and not quite precisely aligned in the link pic.

    As long as the wads are consistent in "form" and aligned they should work.

    Might be easier to use a BPI brush wad as several of the Russian slugs show now.

    It is easy enough to try felt, cork, brush wad or whatever though. I've found best results so far using wad slugs with attached tailwads made from hot melt glue poured in over length forms right onto Lee slugs and slugs from homemade moulds then cut the excess off in a jig. The shrinkage and bubbles rise to the bit I cut off.

    Longbow

  19. #319
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    Where can we get the Svarog slug molds now?

    TheReloadersNetwork.com has been out of stock for a while.

    I was able to score a 12ga Botfly mold from the auction site last month, and regretfully passed on a Paradox mold since I have a smooth bore semi.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by More_Slugs View Post
    Where can we get the Svarog slug molds now?

    TheReloadersNetwork.com has been out of stock for a while.

    I was able to score a 12ga Botfly mold from the auction site last month, and regretfully passed on a Paradox mold since I have a smooth bore semi.
    Svarog reached out to me last month and ask what molds I need. I used to be a distributor for them. The only problem is getting it to clear customs with the war.

    My last order came up missing about 50 molds.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check