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Thread: Svarog Russian slug molds?

  1. #181
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Not a Savarog mould but my Lee 7/8 oz. was a bit sticky when I got it. A little TLC with fine silicone carbide paper to remove little burrs on/in the core pin and now slugs drop out and off no problem and I use straight wheelweights.

    It doesn't take much of a burr to ruin a guy's casting session!

  2. #182
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    I smoked my Svarog frangible core pin every now and then.

    BPI holder is good,now I have a motorized shotshell opener/trimmer:

    Attachment 235523

  3. #183
    Boolit Master


    richhodg66's Avatar
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    They are showing these in 16 gauge on Ebay now, looks just like the Lyman slugs designed to fit in a trap wad. Has anybody tried the 16 gauge ones? I have a 16 gauge Ithaca Deer Slayer I'd like to try these out in.

  4. #184
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    They are showing these in 16 gauge on Ebay now, looks just like the Lyman slugs designed to fit in a trap wad. Has anybody tried the 16 gauge ones? I have a 16 gauge Ithaca Deer Slayer I'd like to try these out in.
    Rich: I don't have a 16ga. yet but have the 12 and 20ga. First mould I'll buy when a 16 comes my way, even if it isn't as nice a shotgun as the one you own. Gp

  5. #185
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    I have the Svarog 20 "Lyman style", it's a very easy casting mould. I'd just like something a little heavier, even heavier than Lyman original 350 grain which I don't have.

  6. #186
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    "Zveroboy" mould likes 850F and a fast pace. Sounds strange but works for me.

    There is no lead smearing around the sprue cutter or mold top, when the weird pin gets hot enough it releases easy. But if I wait ten seconds too long it sticks and needs some force to get out. Mold itself is releasing all the time.

    I lit a candle for smoking but I only smoked the pin twice, in the beginning and around 100 I guess. I made about 200. Hot enough pin, no sticking at all.

    The fast pace means very fragile slugs. They do break if you let the pin stick, now I see the reason for the "second stage" in the mould,for taking the pin out. It's not for force,it's to protect the fragile slug. I took some off the pin by hand,they easily deformed by the squeezing force of my glove.




  7. #187
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I've run three batches from my Zveroboy mould now and I'm happy with the results. While I do need to grasp the slug in the second stage to ease extraction, it's no worse than the other pin that's a standard large hollow point. I don't like to cast hot so as not to make the slugs brittle. I cast mine with my standard PID set temperature of 710 degrees and don't get enough rejects to worry about. I give each slug a quick look as they drop from the pin and if they are not all that I need them to be, they go back in the pot while they are still hot. I have a large back log of tests to run. I'll be glad when the weather eases off enough to make a range trip enjoyable. Gp

  8. #188
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    I'm happy as well.

    This was my second full batch, I tried lower temps but ended way up. I did touch the frangible pin with 1200 paper a bit,maybe it did something? Anyway,a good nice pace.

    Why doesn't it smear the lead? Some serius heat here how I do it.

  9. #189
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Petander: I've had no trouble with smeared lead with mine either. Seems each mould we use has both + and - features. I use Dielectric silicon grease to lube mould tops and the sprue plate and rarely have a problem with smeared lead. Also, it doesn't migrate into the cavities like two cycle oil does. I got this tip from a long ago banned member of this forum. Gp

  10. #190
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    My mould wants to run hot as well. I had some problems deforming slugs on my first run but quickly figured it out. I drop my Slugs directly into an Egg Crate now after they have cooled enough so they don't deform when you look at them. They are heavily Frosted.

    Definitely gonna try the dielectric grease. Sounds like a good idea. I have not had any problems with the sprue plate smearing lead. It will shave some off at the pour hole but that is all above the bottom side of the plate.

    This mould is nicely machined and there is no reason hwy it shouldn't produce perfect boolits, once we get them totally figured out .

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  11. #191
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I own way to many moulds but they are like my guns, once I have them I find them very hard to part with. There will be more of these Russian moulds on my shelf as I can afford them. I would like to have a couple of them for the 410 shotguns but the Lyman style sabot mould I saw listed on Ebay has a full bore diameter and so it seems to me it would have to be seated over card wads. That in it's self isn't a bad thing, just different than the 12 and 20ga. versions that seat inside a plastic wad. Have any of you tried these? Gp

  12. #192
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    No 410 experience here.

    But the Paradox 12 gauge mould came today:

    Attachment 235907.

    Hot works for me again. The sprue cut isn't the prettiest but everything else is good.

    Attachment 235908
    Last edited by Petander; 02-13-2019 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Add pic

  13. #193
    Boolit Master


    tomme boy's Avatar
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    Those wads are not all the way on. They need to be seated farther or they will fall off and give you flyers. There is a video out there somewhere on how to seat them farther on.

  14. #194
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Those are in all the way! They look identical to the wads on the Paradox slugs KrackenFan69 sent me. I thought it looked odd but that was as far as they go in. There is a post in the middle of the slug that goes into the hollow stem of the wad. Not sure if it bottoms out in the stem or the top of the stem bottoms out in the cavity but they bottomed out wherever. They are a fairly tight fit and so far I haven't seen any signs of them falling off.

    They shoot not badly but are a bit undersize in my singleshot. They are about perfect fit for my new to me Mossberg Slugster though so will get another testing in that. And I knurled some up then sized back to suit my fat bored singleshot so those will get tested too.

    It is a nice slug.

    Longbow

  15. #195
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    Take an empty 12 gauge hulls and cut it down slightly shorter than the slug and wad. Seat the wad by hand as far as it will go then put them into the hull nose first. Place the gas seal on a table and push down on the base of the hull. You will feel the wad seat deeper in the slug.
    I'm really bad at explaining things

  16. #196
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    HereClick image for larger version. 

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  17. #197
    Boolit Master Petander's Avatar
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    Yes they go deeper, I tried with my 20 gauge press. Thanks.

    Attachment 235978

    The one to the right is finger pressure only.

  18. #198
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    I used my Little Sinclair Arbor Press to seat mine and the one on your left is how far mine went in.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  19. #199
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
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    I have managed to seat them flush with the bottom of the slug. However the cushion section gets a bit of distortion. Not sure how much difference it will make when fired. I have some loaded up fully seated and will test them head to head with the others when I get a chance to hit the range

  20. #200
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    Those wads are not all the way on. They need to be seated farther or they will fall off and give you flyers. There is a video out there somewhere on how to seat them farther on.
    Man, I was gonna say that but I did t wanna seem like a know-it-all.

    I set mine wads by centering the point of the depriming die in the middle of the slug and slowly apply pressure.

    Works like a charm.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check