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Thread: Progressive Press advice

  1. #101
    Boolit Master

    Lefty Red's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Bird View Post
    Got the Lee Classic Turret, safety prime, riser, auto drum measure
    You don't have to use the powder riser insert with the Auto Drum, do you? Just with the Auto Disc, correct? Looking at it doesn't seem like the Drum has all the "width" the Drum does.

    I wasn't that impressed with the Auto Drum at first. But it's grown to be my favorite powder thrower. Easier adjustments and very accurate and less spillage once it's broken in.

    Lefty


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    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  2. #102
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Dragon, I will . And Lefty, according to the Lee website, I need one. Doesn't look wide enough to be a problem to me either.

  3. #103
    Boolit Master

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    Good to know!


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    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  4. #104
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    The riser gets it above all the dies. They're cheap but are easy enough to switch from turret to turret if need be.

  5. #105
    Boolit Buddy jessdigs's Avatar
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    I have a 550b, and it is really nice. You can use your dies that you already have, but you need caliber conversions for each caliber. They are about $45 new, or you can find them used for a great price.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    If you have issues w/ the safety prime shoot me a PM. A lot of people have trouble w/ it. I can walk you through getting it set up properly. I prefer it over loading tubes but that's no an option a a Dillon
    I use the Hornady 1911 primer tube filler. It works pretty darn good. I just use my Hornady tubes to fill the Dillon feed tube. Best $10 I've spent in the Bargain Cave in a few months.
    Semper Fi!


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  7. #107
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waldog View Post

    Consider the Hornady Lock and Load Progressive. It’s cheaper than the Dillon and has several features that, IMHO are better than Dillon.

    When I did find someone that had experience with both presses, most liked the LNL and many had sold their Dillon's and bought the LNL. However, there have been those that sold their red presses and bought blue.

    IMHO the Dillon has one major shortcoming and, most Dillon owners will agree if they are honest. The Dillon powder measure is sorely lacking in ease of use and adjustability. It is sliding bar type measure. It meters ball type powder well but, flake type powder less so. Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. (Note: Powder measure fits into the Powder Die.) Each LNL powder die costs about $24. A Dillon powder measure costs $92.95.

    Also, IMHO, the Dillon de-priming/priming system is less reliable than the LNL. With the Dillon system, spent primers drop through the bottom of the shell plate into a small cup. It is an “open” system and is easy to empty. However, the press gets dirty with carbon. Whenever carbon/dust/dirt or “primer dust” fouls the primer seating station this causes "flipped" or "skipped" primers. The DILLON de-priming system works well provided it is kept CLEAN. With the Hornady LNL, spent primers are dropped completely through the press into a plastic tube and into the trash or bottle or whatever you want to use. It is a “closed” system. You never get carbon in and around the bottom of the shell plate. The point is the dirt off the spent primers does not foul the workings of the press. I have never had a “flipped” primer. Although, I have had “missed” primers that I feel were operator error (ME!) and not the fault of the primer system. (I forgot to seat the primer!) In all fairness, the LNL primer seating station will also not work properly if the primer slide is fouled with dirt or powder. Please note that neither Dillon or LNL primer systems will work flawlessly unless they are adjusted properly. Users of BOTH systems have expressed exasperation with these adjustments.


    How the presses indexes is an issue for some people. In reading the web about "KABOOMS" (Blowing up a gun!!), many of the kabooms I have read about were directly traced back to a manually indexing press. This is not the fault of the press but, operator error. However, with a manually indexing press, If you get distracted while reloading, you can easily double charge a pistol case. (A double charge will depend on the powder you are using and the charge weight.) IMHO, a double charge is less of a problem with auto-indexing presses. The Hornady LNL, Dillon 650 and, Dillon Square Deal auto index. The MOST POPULAR Dillon press, the 550, is a manually indexing press. Some people prefer manual, some people prefer auto.

    In addition, the LNL auto indexing is significantly smoother than the Dillon 650. The LNL indexes 1/2 step while the ram is going up and 1/2 step when the ram goes down. The 650 indexes a full step on the ram down stroke and can cause pistol cases to spill SMALL AMOUNTS or powder with the indexing "bump". IMHO, the LNL is dramatically better. Of course, the amount of powder "bumped" from a case is dependent on the powder charge, operator and, speed of reloading. As I stated above, you get primer problems with a dirty press. "Bumped" powder fouls BOTH Dillon and LNL.

    Next, the LNL uses a really slick bushing system for mounting loading dies and powder measure to the press. It makes changing calibers and SNAP. After a die is adjusted for whatever you are loading you can remove the die from the press with an 1/8 turn and insert a different die. Each die has it's own bushing. The Dillon uses a die plate that has the powder measure and all loading dies installed. The Dillon die plate costs more than LNL bushings. Another neat feature with the Hornady is that you can buy a bushing conversion setup and use the same bushings on your RCBS, Lyman or other single stage press and the LNL!

    There is one piece that can get damaged on the LNL. There is a coil spring that holds the cases in the shell holder that can get crushed if you improperly change shell holders. That's the bad news. The good news is that they are only about $2-3 for three and they won't get crushed if you change shell plates correctly. Also, recently Hornady sends these out as a warranty item free of charge. The other good news is that this spring is the primary reason while loading you can easily remove a case at any station. The spring is durable if it is not abused. I have been using my current retainer spring for about 2 years. I have loaded at least 12,000 rounds in that time. With the Dillon you have to remove small individual brass pins in order to take a shell out of a shell plate. My fingers require needle-nose pliers or forceps to remove the brass pins. It is a PITA.
    With the Dillon, “right-left-right-left” hand operating procedure, clockwise rotation and, the fact that you start your loading process at the front, right side of the press, your bullet seating die is at the rear, left side of the press. Why is this important? The Dillon powder measure drops powder into the case and the case is rotated clockwise to the REAR of the press to the bullet seating die. It is very difficult to see inside of the case to see the gunpowder. Many Dillon owners rig up flashlight, mirror or, believe it or not, a video camera to “look” into the case to see the powder charge.

    With the LNL you start your loading process at the REAR, left side of the press. As your case rotates clockwise, after the powder is dropped, your case is directly in the front of the press and the bullet is seated directly in front of the person operating the press. Is is VERY EASY to look directly into the case to see the powder charge. Even though I use a “Powder Check” die. I look directly into each case as I am loading. I have never had a squib load OR a double charge. This is not to say that it can’t happen. It can. I just haven’t experienced one.
    I agree some of the features of the LNL AP are very nice. I do like the LNL bushings. I run these in my LNL AP as well as a couple of single stage presses. Only problem is when going from one press to another, I either have to shim or readjust the dies. I'm slowly liking the powder measure and have TWO. One with the rifle insert and the other with the pistol. I have four Dillon measures and each have a separate charge bar, extra small, small, large and extra large. I use a JDS Quick Measure for extruded powders. I have no leaks with flake or ball with the Dillons and it has no problem with Trail Boss, Unique or Clays as well as #9. I bought the LNL because of the small footprint compared to my Dillon 550 and 650 for use on the road in the RV. It will not replace any of my blue presses. Moving and adjusting a Dillon powder measure is extremely easy. I have knobs on mine and I can turn the dial to what I want. The LNL measure has inserts that I can setup for a load and mark it. I pull it out and can put it back in to the same charge that I wanted. The nice thing about locator buttons on the Dillon is sometimes all I do is use a different locator button and I can load a different cartridge on the same shellplate. This is something not thought about.

    Depriming and priming. I give the nod to Dillon. Hornady primes on the 1.5 station and you cannot see a primer enter the station with the plate full of cases. I have noticed this setting up the press and thought I tweaked it enough but three cases out of 50 were missing primers and it resulted in a powder spill. The Hornady press of mine needs to be surgically clean to operate. I can see a primer on the 550 go into station 1. That is nice. The 550 can run dirty compared to the LNL. The LNL does not have provisions for primer seating depth. The 550 can. The powder drop on the 550 is left of the frame in front of me. I look in the case and advance it to the seating station. The LNL if I have it in Station three is in front of the frame. This makes me advance it to the bullet seating station to look at the powder charge. Shellplates for the Hornady can be had on sale for cheap. Not so for the Dillon.

    The right pawl controls indexing for brass to enter the die. The left is to control indexing for priming. It is the only progressive press than has this. That being said, I can see where someone can lockup a LNL and to break pawls. One last thing on the LNL AP. I spent half a day, cleaning, degreasing, knocking burrs off. I know when I get home all I need to do on the new 650 is to assemble it and then I can load. It was that way for me on the SD and 550.

    take care,

    r1kk1

  8. #108
    Boolit Bub
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    The priming problems and those dang pawls are the big reasons I said goodbye to my Hornady LNL AP. I bought both my Dillon 650's and 550 used; as a result, I had to dismantle, clean, and reassemble them. However, they have never failed to feed and seat a primer, and they stay adjusted. If I had to start over, I'd be willing to buy one from the factory. On the Dillon 550, if you have shellplates 1-5, that represents 95% of what most guys at the range are shooting anyway.

    I know users like Waldog have fantastic success stories with their Hornady LNL AP, and everyone will admit, they cost less MONEY. However, all the adjusting, cleaning, & tweaking of the Hornady cost me more in TIME: the one thing I don't have enough of.

    It's not that I'm some pathetic "Fanboy" of Dillon, it's just that I've tried both, and the Hornady really left a sour taste in my mouth. If I can help someone avoid the same bitterness with a little bit of typing, I'll do it.

    However, if someone does get a Hornady, my advice is to reload on it immediately! If you have to adjust the pawls more than once in 1,000 rounds, or if it stops picking up primers after you've polished the heck out of the slide mechanism, return your machine and get a new unit! The big fans of the Hornady are the ones that have a press that stays adjusted. I don't know why some do and some don't, but if your heart is set on the Hornady, make sure you got one of the good ones like Waldog; one that maintain its settings.

    Just my $0.02

  9. #109
    Boolit Master



    gray wolf's Avatar
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    A small inexpensive Endoscopic Camera (inspection Camera ) mounted to or near your press makes inspecting for powder drop very easy and comfortable.

    Take picks, make a movie, or look down your drain pipe.

    I was impressed when a friend showed me this.



    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #110
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    You can always go old school and use a mirror.


  11. #111
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    You can always go old school and use a mirror.
    I believe it's Uniquetek that makes a mirror that's held in place under a die lock nut. They aren't cheap but are another option.

  12. #112
    Boolit Buddy
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    I enjoy my 550. Like others have said it's easy, cheap, and reliable. If you want to run a powder check and case feeder the 650 is worth the extra money. I really do prefer the 1050 with the exception of cost, 1 yr warranty and time changing calibers. It basically boils down to your wants, needs, and pocket book.

  13. #113
    Boolit Master

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    I loaded a box of 45 colt, a box of 44 mag, and a box of .357 yesterday. That Lee classic Turret is faster than single stage and I like doing all steps at once. Press is smooth and indexes well, I like the amount of control that I have. There isn't so much going on that I can't monitor everything. My Auto drum leaks a little powder around the drum. Maybe I didn't have the screw tight enough? I still have a little trouble with the primer system either dropping them on the floor, or not releasing. Dragon helped me a little on that issue. The measure is easy enough to change charges on that I don't think I will need extra drums, and once I get my Lee dies all reset to this press, I think I can get by with one turret. Overall, I think I "dun good"!

  14. #114
    May Liberty Increase!
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    Glad you're happy with it, T-Bird. Everyone has to find what works for them.
    WANTED: CH AutoChamp Mark IV, V, or Va - PM me if you've got one you'd like to part with.

  15. #115
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    T-bird, good for you! Hope you have a long pleasant experience with your new equipment.

    I too have a Lee Auto drum and Love it. While loading 9mm with HP-38 powder I've found I can get my set point at 4.15gr and reliably hold within 4.1 and 4.2gr with a very rare drop of 4.0 or 4.3gr.. From what I've seen more are on the lighter side than the heavier side. These are well within the range that I find acceptable for what I'm shooting.

  16. #116
    Boolit Master
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    It was a several months after I bought my LNL before I started reloading on it due to a death in my family and a flooded basement. However in that time I found the highboy videos and set it up according to all of them before I did any reloading. I never had to deburr or polish anything but did spray everything down with Wurth brake cleaner and Hornady one shot gun cleaner.
    I only have somewhere around 5000 rounds through it as of now and have done no pawl adjustments and have had no primer issues other than not having the tube inserted all the way in the housing body awhile ago.
    I'd have been very pissed if I would have had the issues that many seem to have but would have just either taken it back, dealt with it or gotten rid of it and tried a Dillion or something else. Life is just way to short to get upset about something like this.
    I realize I have a very small amount through it and maybe it will end up being a piece of **** but till then I can't say anything bad about it yet.
    I think Hornady could have done a better job on the LNL as far as fit and the primer punch setup as I really don't think it was thought out very well.
    I see videos showing 100,s of rounds done on various presses in a few minutes and that's great though the price is far more than what I paid for the LNL or a great deal of work was done to the cheap ones that can.
    Last edited by Carrier; 02-03-2017 at 06:03 PM.

  17. #117
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    There is another method for setting the auto drum's that works pretty good. Screw the plunger out farther than it needs to be for whatever size charge you want. Then weigh out a charge on your scale, dump it in the drum before putting the drum on the measure. Then just screw the plunger up until the powder charge is even with the face of the drum. Dump out the powder, install the drum and from there it's just a minor adjustment to fine tune it.

  18. #118
    Boolit Bub mummer1973's Avatar
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    I too am a 550B reloader. its what i learned with
    Peter DiMatteo

  19. #119
    Boolit Master

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    great idea jetinteriorguy

  20. #120
    Boolit Bub Cougar Hunter's Avatar
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    I like the mirror idea. I'm going to give that a try.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check