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Thread: Progressive Press advice

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Another 550B user here (over 20 years).The cost of 550B cal conversion kits does add up. I find changing primer types a bit of a hassle. Don't know what I'd do without it though.

    That having been said if you've been able to stick with a single stage as long as you have and are on a budget then maybe a Lee turret would work for you. I don't have one (just a Lee classic cast) but this forum sure likes them. I picked up a nice solid older Lyman turret that is great so there are options.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy


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    My wife was kind enough to purchase a Lee Loadmaster for me as a Christmas present.
    Though I've been reloading for 38 years, I've never owned a progressive press, mostly because of all the scary stories.
    Well, I set it up tonight and got comfortable with how it worked, then began loading some target loads for my 45 ACP.
    I made 500 rounds, and the only problem I ran into was not paying attention to how many cases I had left and I had to pause to refill.
    The primer setup on mine makes it so that primers flipping are not a problem at all.
    Don't let a fear of LEE products keep you from trying them. I'm glad my wife took the plunge for me !
    P.S. She also got me a sweet 454 Casull Super Redhawk Toklat with a 5" barrel. I love this woman !!!!

    CPL Lou
    CPL Lou

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy cold1's Avatar
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    I have less than $250 tied up in 2 used lee presses. One is a Pro1000 (first progressive) and a Loadmaster (second progressive). They both turn out good pistol ammo. Caliber changes are less than 5 minutes (after figuring it out the first time) on both. Just like anything mechanical, they have good days and some bad moments. The biggest complaint I read about with any progressive is priming. Nobody has perfected that, every color has people complaining about it.

    The pro1000 is a very basic progressive. It works. Caliber change over is not too difficult. You have the option of just changing over the shell plate (as long as you stay with the same primer) or the entire carrier assembly. The shell plate is about $10 while the carrier is about $30-$40. The carrier does come with a primer setup. Both will do various calibers per plate ie 9mm,380, 223 are all the same plate/carrier.

    I do not like that the Pro1000 is only 3 holes, I like to use the Lee FCD but that isnt an option on the pro1000. The primer and powder station are the same on the press. You prime on the down stroke and and powder at the top of the stroke. If you miss the primer, for what ever reason, powder will spill out of the case and you will get powder in the priming system. This has to be cleaned out or priming will become unreliable. No big deal, I keep a can of air duster next to the bench, I remove the case from the station and blow out the spilled powder. I do like that priming takes place on the down stroke, its the only thing done at that time and you can feel the primer seating.

    The loadmaster is a much more of a press. Its massive. Dialing the timing in can be finicky. Caliber change is quick. Its just the shell plate ($20-$25) and the priming system ($40ea you only need 2 Large primer/small primer). It has 5 stations and is able to handle most any caliber, pistol and rifle. The shell plate is just like the Pro100 in that each plate can be used for multiple calibers. The loadmaster primes at the top of the stroke, you cannot feel the primer seat. Should you miss a primer, and you have your powder through die set at the next station, the powder spills into the carrier and not into the priming system. My biggest complaint with the loadmaster is the finiky timing, it was difficult to get it set up the first couple of times. Once I understood how it all worked together, it became much easier to setup. Luckily you only have to do this once or twice. Mine was a used machine and the previous owner had it all screwed up.

    I like both the Lee presses. They have there faults just like any other press. They are good quality and fit within my meager budget.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Is changing calibers simply a matter of changing dies, or do I have to buy new shellplates etc for each cal?
    Depends, progressives are not magical, if you have to change the shell holder on your single stage, you are going to have to change the shell plate on a progressive.

    If you plan to load .380 and 223 or 45 ACP and 308, then yes it's just a matter of changing dies. If you were going to go from .380 to 308 then you not only have to change dies but shell plate and priming system too.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy rototerrier's Avatar
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    I went LNL. Works great for me. I crank out a **** ton of ammo with it.

    I notice there's not as many RCBS fans. Seems most folks are red or blue on progressives.

    At the time, there were some good deals on the LNL and they had the 500 free bullets promo. It was more of an economics choice for me.

    I pull the handle and a finished load ejects. Whether it's blue or red didn't much matter to me. They both appeared to fit the bill in that regard.

    I only use my progressive for handgun ammo though. For rifle, I use a RCBS Chargemaster, weighing each load, and seat on a Lee Classic Turret and I hand prime for everything.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I have been using a loadmaster for around a year or so as my first progressive loader , and I am very pleased with it . I have used progressive shot shell loaders for years but have batch loaded handgun ammo as I do my rifle ammo , but eventually I couldn't keep up even with the little dandy throwing the powder charge . I studied all the options and came to the conclusion that the loadmaster ( if I could get it to work properly ) would fit my needs , and I could use the dies that I already have to load multiple cartridges with different die holder , and shellplate . While watching a thread here on cast bullets and finding so much information online ( not from lee ) on the set-up and operating , plus trouble shooting I decided to give it a try , and have been very pleased . It is a lot to keep a eye on with so much going on at the same time but if you just pull the handle once and look at each station before pulling it again you will be surprised how smooth loading can be with it . I have also recently started using a 550 that a member here offered at a very good price and have fell in love with it's simplicity it is a joy to use . I can set up the dies and change out the shellplate to swap cartridges the same as the loadmaster . I would have been just as satisfied with ether loader , but the 550 with primer system is a much simpler loader to operate . If you are familiar with your shot shell loader you know that they came with auto or manual index that is the difference . Don't get in a hurry take your time and look around and think about your needs in a loader .

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    I have used the the 550 for around 31 years and all brands of dies,I have never seen the need to try anything else.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Tbird,
    I have owned all the Dillon presses. The two SDB's are gone as is the 650.....needed to downsize...but they worked well. I kept the 1050 because it is fast and reliable for the bulk of my pistol loads. I still have my first Dillon as well....a 550B

    The 550B will serve you well. You can use your current dies with it. Caliber conversions are reasonably priced, and you need them in addition to the dies.

    Don Verna

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

    Plate plinker's Avatar
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    I don't know about other brands and what they can do, but the 550 can load almost every caliber I ever heard of. That is worth something to me.

  10. #30
    May Liberty Increase!
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    I can't tell you what you should do, so I'll give you how I got to where I am and what I wished I'd done different. I'll also pose some questions for you to consider.

    Do you enjoy reloading or is it a means to an end? I enjoy the process of reloading. A progressive essentially removes me from the process. I've become a crank puller and quality control inspector. That may be a bit of exaggeration, but I found reloading on the progressive to be more like work and less like play. Focus shifted from perfection to production. I'm not suggesting either is bad, but they certainly change the dynamic.

    How much money do you have to throw at components? I had no idea when I bought my progressive how much my components bill was going to increase! jmorris tried to point this out, but I was adamant I needed more ammo in less time. As mentioned above, I enjoy reloading and suddenly I was always done and looking for the next reloading project. Sometimes that meant I couldn't reload for a while, waiting to come up with the money for the next batch of components.

    How mechanically inclined are you? I'm not trying to insult you, but any progressive is going to require trouble shooting of the process and machine at some point and likely from the very beginning. The problems range from mundane (e.g., inconsistent seating depth) to major (e.g., parts failure). Single stage and turret press problems are usually limited to a single issue, in my experience. Progressives can have multiple problems concurrently. Five mundane issues at the same time can be as frustrating to some as one major problem. Again, not trying to insult anyone's ability, just pointing out it is something you need to consider about yourself.

    How much more ammo do you need? I love my Redding T7 turret press. If I had to narrow down to one press (which isn't likely to happen), this would be it. To me, it maintains the involvement in the process that the progressive removes, yet speeds up the process over a single stage. It also allows me to do semi-progressive reloading, moving the preset dies to progress one piece of brass from empty to reloaded before beginning the next one. I like this approach because it allows me to stop and start at will, yet I don't have to remember where I was in the process. It's either done or it isn't started.

    Are you a "find something that works and stick with it" person or "constantly tinkering with the load" person? The former is progressive friendly, the latter single or turret. I do a bit of both, which is why I have all three types of presses.

    I'll stay out of the color discussion, but I will suggest 5 stations comes in handy from time to time.

    Good luck with your decision!
    WANTED: CH AutoChamp Mark IV, V, or Va - PM me if you've got one you'd like to part with.

  11. #31
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    I have a Dillon 650 and I'm very, very satisfied with it, very good machine! The plus for me over the 550B is shell plate is manually advanced on the 550 and it is a 4 station. I wanted the progressive shell advanced and the ability to run a powder check system which requires another station. I do have Dillon's case feeder, doesn't make sense without it, but I don't have a bullet feeder. It might be nice in the future but i don't mind hand seating bullets and i have seen my rounds per hour rate over 1200 as is. You Dont need a bullet feeder! Either way, you can't go wrong with a Dillon machine and the best warranty and service in the business!
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

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  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    There are some fine reviews on the You-Tube of every press on the market.
    Yes, you must sort through all the BS videos to find knowledgeable handloaders with years of experience but they are there and it does make a difference when you can see a press in action.
    Videos show us all many things that was not being presented if you can pay close attention.

    Whatever you decide...go slow at first and learn everything about your particular press you can...it will become an extension of your arm and your will and if you know it well enough, every time it coughs you will immediately know why and be able to address the problem b e f o r e . . . . .

    . . . . . you have to post a thread entitled . . . "What's the best and quickest bullet puller?" . . .
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

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  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    One You add up all The costs Of a dillon or other progressives, In all the caliber you shoot. Then subtract your cost of your components, you will Realize that The total cost is not worth the investment... Not say one machine is better than another.
    If you really want one , Then buy It. . The total Investment is a Complete Looser.
    I have found going back to single stage Loading was. Better in the long Run .
    NRA Endowment Member
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  14. #34
    Boolit Master




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    I have both a Hornady LnL AP and a Dillon 650 mounted on my bench and I am using both.

    The Dillon 650 pretty much demands a case feeder. The Hornady doesn't.

    For quick changes on the Dillon you pretty much have to have a powder measure for each tool head. With the Hornady you can just change the metering insert and/or drum and metering insert.

    The Dillon feeds a primer whether you need it or not. Unused primers get launched into the next county unless you purchase a modification for the ski jump. The Hornady only feeds a primer when needed.

    Dillon conversion kits run $78, that includes the shell plate and locater buttons. Hornady just needs a shell plate. A full Dillon quick change set up is going to run $192, not including dies. Hornady quick change setup requires die bushings, $4.49 each, shell plate, $34, metering insert, $11-$12. For rifle it would run $55, pistol $58.50, not including dies.

    You can pick up Hornady stuff in lots of places. Many retail outlets carry shell plates and such. Dillon, unless you're extremely lucky, you're limited to mail order to get parts.

    The Dillon powder measure is a PITA if you ask me. Much touchier to adjust than the Hornady.

    When I take dies off the Hornady they don't take a lot of storage space. Removing a tool head from the Dillon requires a lot of storage space, remember that powder measure!

    IMHO the Dillon shines if you're doing large runs of one cartridge. The Hornady shines if you're loading smaller runs of lots of cartridges.

    Both presses make good ammo. Both have their quirks.

    Setting up both presses out of the box the Hornady took me a lot less time.

    My 650 is pretty much dedicated to .45 ACP right now. I have a conversion kit for .44 Mag that came with it. I'd gladly trade that conversion for a 10mm conversion.

    I'm thinking of adding an additional progressive press to my bench. If I do it will be a Hornady. That way I can have one set for large primers and the other set for small primers.

    I've had my Hornady for years. I've reloaded many different cartridges on it. I haven't had to adjust the pawls at all.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

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  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    This IMO is the correct advice. Just so happens it's the exact setup I use. I went from a Lee 1000 to the Dillon 650 and never looked back. Now that I don't shoot as much as I once did, she sets idle most of the time and I use a pair of RCBS II's.


    Quote Originally Posted by Meatpuppet View Post
    Dillon 650 with a casefeeder/Mr Bulletfeeder if you are loading a lot of the 9mm. It offers 10 minute caliber changes for your other loadings.

    If you ever decide it is too much machine, they hold thier value really well.

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by salpal48 View Post
    One You add up all The costs Of a dillon or other progressives, In all the caliber you shoot. Then subtract your cost of your components, you will Realize that The total cost is not worth the investment... Not say one machine is better than another.
    If you really want one , Then buy It. . The total Investment is a Complete Looser.
    I have found going back to single stage Loading was. Better in the long Run .
    I'm not following this. W/ a 550B the buttons, shell plate and funnels are used for multiple cartridges. So you may not need to buy all of them for every cartridge you reload. This helps keep costs down. Then figure in that your going to maintain 80% of your investment, can be higher, if you sell.

    The total cost of investment is going to vary w/ each person. So while it may not work for you it may for someone else. To say it's a complete loser is a false statement as it's to broad.

    Now to the LCT. Don't get me wrong, I really like mine. But it's four pulls of the handle for one completed cartridge. Even a relaxed pace on a 550 will yield more rounds per hour w/ 75% less pulls of the handle. If you have elbow issues this is a very big deal. It's not just about output so don't overlook wear and tear on your body.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    This is purely Economics to me. If you take The Full value Of your New machine will all the extra's. Figure your weekly consumption Of components. . less the Brass, less your time ,You can see How long it will take to get your Investment Back. If you Like it, You Like It. If you Don't, you Don't
    The 80 % has no bearing On the Investment. . Investment Return is Only Good if You find some one who will pay what your asking. where I live In NE. Used Dillon's are @ every Gun show Real Cheap.
    NRA Endowment Member
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  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by salpal48 View Post
    One You add up all The costs Of a dillon or other progressives, In all the caliber you shoot. Then subtract your cost of your components, you will Realize that The total cost is not worth the investment... Not say one machine is better than another.
    If you really want one , Then buy It. . The total Investment is a Complete Looser.
    I have found going back to single stage Loading was. Better in the long Run .
    Your math and thinking are flawed.

    First, a progressive saves time and effort. If someone shoots a lot, it is not only a good investment but a necessary one.

    Second, why do you subtract the cost of components? That I do not follow.

    Lastly, the majority of progressive press owners do not load all their ammunition on one. They have conversions for the calibers they shoot in larger amounts, and load the other calibers on single stage and turret presses.

    Don Verna

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    I'm no Jerry Miculek but last year, my first shooting USPSA, i burned through 15,000rds of 9mm just shooting club level matches. This year I plan on hitting some of the bigger regional and national matches plus add 3-Gun into the mix. I think my 650 has earned its keep quiet handily and worth every red cent! My ammo usage will only increase and im probably going to be adding a 1050 at a minimum here soon, maybe another 650.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
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  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by salpal48 View Post
    One You add up all The costs Of a dillon or other progressives, In all the caliber you shoot. Then subtract your cost of your components, you will Realize that The total cost is not worth the investment... Not say one machine is better than another.
    If you really want one , Then buy It. . The total Investment is a Complete Looser.
    I have found going back to single stage Loading was. Better in the long Run .
    I'd respectfully disagree.

    Buying a Dillon press (other than a 1050) is much like buying an investment that pays dividends.

    Now before you laugh *too* hard (it's too late, isn't it), hear me out. Since Dillon's lifetime warranty is transferrable, used Dillon presses sell for around 90% of their new counterparts.

    I'll use my Dad as an example. He bought a 550B in 1986 new for ~$200 (I'll have to give him a call and find out exactly what he paid). Fast forward to today, and his press is worth around $380 or so. Now of course inflation means he lost some of his principal, but the dividends paid (cost of reloads vs new ammo) over the years puts him ahead of the game. If he were to cash out now (sell his press) he'd come out quite well. Try doing this with the other progressive press makers.

    OP, I have an RCBS Rock Chucker, a Lee Classic Turret, a Dillon 1050 and a Dillon 550C (no, not my Dad's... I bought it for my son for Christmas. He's 15, so I'll have use of it for a few more years, til he moves out). I really like all of my presses, but the overall winner is most definitely the Dillon 550C. It's speedy, reliable, will hold it's value well, and has a rock solid lifetime warranty. IMO, the majority of the anti-Dillon guys vastly underestimate the value of that Lifetime Warranty; if something breaks, they replace it. Free. Forever. Throw in the fact that Dillon presses have historically held 90% of their value over time, and the initial outlay of cash doesn't seem so hard to swallow.

    Caliber conversions on the 550 are easy, quick, and reasonably priced. Changing primer sizes takes 3 minutes. It's just a great all around press.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check