Any recommendations to remove a carbon ring from a 308 rifle? Normal brush and solvent doesn't seem to do much. Thanks
Any recommendations to remove a carbon ring from a 308 rifle? Normal brush and solvent doesn't seem to do much. Thanks
Which solvents have you tried and what kind of action?
I've pulled a lot of crud from "clean" barrels by following up with alcohol, MEK (be careful) or mineral spirits. You may need to plug the bored and let it set over night.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
AR platform. I have used Hoppes #9 and a Smith and Wesson foam.
I know Hoppe's is popular but I gave it up a long time ago because I don't trust it not to leave a sticky residue in a gas-operated action. If commercial gun solvents aren't getting it out, maybe remove or cover any non-metallic parts and try some carburetor cleaner.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Try BoreTech carbon renover, Works for me--even takes residue from PC that NOTHING else touches
gonna need something better than hoppes. kroil and let it soak then brush, and repeat.
don't know if you have a 308 chamber reamer, but that is the fastest way, insert the chamber reamer and turn my hand without forward pressure so it does not cut. Other than that, foaming bore cleaner left overnight or JB paste on a patch wrapped on a bore brush worked in the throat area.
NRA High Master XTC
DR# 2125
We used to use a airesol foam made by mercury for cleaning carbon from outboard motor parts. It did a great job on the gas systems on garands and M1As removing carbon. Becarefull around finished parts as it may also remove bluing or anodizing. On Ars also watch for carbon fouling around the key and gas rings on the bolt.
I have had good luck with Sea Foam, most auto part stores and WallyMart carry it. But if you know anyone at a GM Repair Dealership, GM Top End Cleaner will do the trick.
Robert Abbott
"I don't save money reloading. I just get to shoot more."
The EPA forced the removal of nitro benzene for Hoppe's #9 in 1989. It has not been the same since.
True carbon rings are almost impossible to remove. If it's just starting Boretech carbon remover is one of the best.
JB Bore Paste and lots of scubbing is the only method that has worked for me. There are some new products that I have not tried.
As always, YMMV.
Richard
Thanks, don't think it is just starting. I have kroil, so I will start there.
I mix acetone, methanol and janitor grade ammonia in equal volumes and use that. Cleans very well. MEK is good too, but I am just too lazy to bother looking for it.
My local Lowes carries MEK in the paint supplies section along with other fun stuff like kerosene, lacquer thinner, etc.
To the OP, if you use harsh chemical solvents, make sure you wear the proper protective gear because some of this stuff, like MEK, may not be the best to inhale and/or may absorb through your skin.
We used to use JP8 to clean the carbon out of machine guns "in the field." In retrospect, using chemical gloves would have been smart. I hate to sound like "Johnny Safety" but some solvents can be pretty harsh.
A new, high quality and tight copper bore brush with Butch's Bore shine almost always worked for me in my M14 days. Failing that, tight patches and JB. Plan on spending some time if you have to go to JB.
automotive polishing compound takes care of it quick. if its really bad try rubbing compound followed by polishing compound.
The GM top engine cleaner of today is not the same as older stock. I am down to my last bottle of the older part # good stuff. The newer stuff works but no where near the same as the older one
Pure Gum turpentine, works great for removing lead also.
A well used bronze brush wrapped with a patch then coated with JB's bore paste will do it, give it a good scrubbing.
Charter Member #148
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