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Thread: Master Caster Questions

  1. #21
    Banned

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    look at the top of his mold Nick.
    even with the master caster you have to operate it similar to hand casting.
    the mold has to be up to temp.
    you have to let the sprue suck into the cavity.
    and you have to cut it on time.
    keeping a consistent time is easy with the machine it just needs to be set properly.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    jmorris,
    Now that looks cool as grits! Nice set up.
    I don't have an acetylene torch. Would propane torch work? If not, how about the Hi-Tek mold release I've heard some folks use?

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Nick Quick's Avatar
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    R5R, the mold sucking from the sprue is visible and telling but not enough to cut the sprue yet. After the sucking, the sprue appearance is not changed yet. As soon I move the handle down a bit (with the fan ON) the appearance change and tells it right away it is ready for the sprue to be cut.
    When I was not waiting for the sprue to change I've got lead smears, even tho the sucking was obvious.

    The best results I have when using the automation. The bad part is that I really like to work on manual mode and being a human I make mistakes sometimes.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    A propane torch won't work, you need the soot to put on the mould. Candles work well, as do matches, but with that sort of flame, you really need to remove the mould to get the smoke in the cavities. I have never tried the release lube.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Any recommendations concerning getting one in 110v over 220 volt? I have 110V in the garage area I plan to use this in and 220V in the shop. I feel more comfortable casting in the garage in case of a problem plus it is well ventilated. I could run 220V to the garage but it will not be easy. The other option is to cast in the shop and install a fume hood.

    Don Verna

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    If you have the wattage available, there is no reason to go 220v. The pot has two elements, it will draw the same wattage no matter if it's wired for 110 or 220v. For 110v you wire them in parallel, 220v you wire in series.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy Nick Quick's Avatar
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    At 50F in the shop I had no problem at all with the pot(110V) heating up and perform as expected. I cut it quite short that day as I was not really comfy working at that room temperature. (The shop heater was defective that day)

    I always thought the 220V version is for countries where 220V is the standard.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    The one i have is quite old, it has two cartridge heaters, both 110/120v. The newer ones that i have seen have a thin heating band have two sets of leads, both 110/120v elements.

    They must do it so one pot works in all countries, smart way of doing it, but may cost them a little more.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mine runs off 120v plugged into my pid.

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    Well I pulled the trigger and ordered the Master Caster and a couple of molds. I ordered it with the digital temp controller.
    I hope I enjoy using it as much as others here do.
    Thanks for taking the time to answer questions. I'll probably have more when I start using the machine.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Good choice, i'm sure you'll love it too. I found them to be great to deal with too. Ordered some moulds, they left the same day i ordered/paid for them, no messing about, packed as small as possible to save me freight.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy Nick Quick's Avatar
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    If you enjoyed casting before with using other casting devices then you will be elated once you start using the machine. There is no other manual casting machine out there like this one. And with that Magma PID installed....wow....you kinda make me jealous.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Woodchuck View Post
    How many molds do you own and use for the M.C.?
    A dozen or so.

    Do you still use hand molds that you might already have owned?
    Yes.

    Do you ever use your Master Caster pot for hand casting molds?
    No but a friend does.

    If you needed to cast 1000 to 1500 bullets today and you had identical molds for your Master Caster and a 5 or 6 cavity hand casting mold , which method would you chose to do the casting?
    Hand mould.

    I have 2 Master Casters & 1 Master Pot. If you want & are able to use hand moulds they are by far the quickest. If you want to cast for you bulk shooter, sixgun or auto, simply purchase at least 2 if not 3 each 4 cavity moulds, I have run 4 of them on occasion. I did this for a living & if you're serious you can pretty much maintain 1000 bullets per hour which includes adding alloy, drinking water & expelling water.

    On the other hand my quickest 2 cavity mould for the Master Caster can be dumped every 10 seconds. That works out to 720 bullets per hour if you don't need to do anything but cast.

  14. #34
    Boolit Mold
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    LAH,
    Good info. I've never understood how running 2 or 3 molds at once works out. Do you fill each mold, set them aside, then go back after the last one is full and cut the sprue and empty bullets from the first mold then the second etc.?
    I've read where some people keep the second mold on a hot plate and cast with the first one till it gets too hot then switch to the second.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    The way i did it was to keep one mould on the melting pot to keep it hot, i then cast madly with one, and when it gets too hot, i swap over to the pre-heated one and put the hot one on the pot to cool slightly. It seems odd to put something that is too hot on a heat source, but it did tend to cool down enough while sitting on there.

    With that said, a buddy of mine has 3 moulds, he uses all three at once. Pour all three, cut the sprues and drop projectiles, then re-fill.

    I guess you need to work out what works for you and your pace.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Woodchuck View Post
    LAH,
    Good info. I've never understood how running 2 or 3 molds at once works out. Do you fill each mold, set them aside, then go back after the last one is full and cut the sprue and empty bullets from the first mold then the second etc.?
    I've read where some people keep the second mold on a hot plate and cast with the first one till it gets too hot then switch to the second.
    I opened a new thread to show you how I do this.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...00#post3917600

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check