Which is most durable for a gun finish? There is something that I want to try myself and dont want to powdercoat. If you read their websites, of course theirs is best - not surprising. Googling this subject is just as undecided. But has anyone tried both and can say for sure which one is more durable??
I have not tried both...only because the Ceracoat requires baking (to my knowledge). When researching for finished that was a major deciding factor for me. Having an oven large enough to hang a rifle is more than this hobbyist could handle.
I started using Duracoat 4 years ago, I have no issues letting it cure for a few weeks. The only times I have had the Duracoat fail, is on pistol holsters that have metal clasps that hold them in. My rifles have done great. Hope this helps.
I have done some carbon knives as well.
A friend of mine dura coated a mossberg 500 for me that I keep in the truck, and I have intentionally tried to scratch it up, and it has, but man that stuff is very durable. And the good thing is you touch it up if need be!
I have used both and I personally find the Cerakote is tougher. I have fire arms with Cerakoted metalwork and scopes and Duracoted stocks. Some things do not take well to being baked. You can do a low temperature bake for a longer period of time, but why risk it. I have been impressed with the durability of both finishes. If you are doing it yourself and do not have the facility to bake, there is nothing at all wrong with Duracote.
'The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.
Daniel J. Boorstin
The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.
Albert Einstein
Somewhere in my foggy memory, I think I remember seeing a test of metals covered with various finishes, and IIRC, Ceracoat came out the best as to toughness, wear resistance, and protection from rusting. I've never applied it myself, but have at least one rifle with it, and I don't get out to test how tough and rustproof it is any more, but I have total faith in it. It won't protect a bore, or any place where it's not covering the metal, so that always has to be protected with oil or grease, so keep that in mind whatever you use.
I've also used Gun Kote, and it did well, but if you heat it too hot or too long, it'll flake off. I think all these finishes, except the spray on paints, which is what I believe Duracoat is, depend very highly on how it's baked on. Temp and time can be critical. If you don't want to bake, your decision has to be with the Duracoat, I think .... if my memory of it serves me right, at least. Good luck, whatever you choose. It's good to see folks doing their own work. Tends to make us all appreciate what real gunsmiths do. They generally have to be good with both wood AND metal, and its fit and finish and it's always a matter of subtleties. Hope it comes out great for you.
I have limited experience with both. Both are good but Cerakote seems to be the current king of the hill.
At school we've used KG Gunkote, sold by Brownells, for many years and have had very good results. I've had a Gunkote paint job on my carry pistol since 2012, and other than wearing off on the high spots, it's been fine. No rust, no flaking, or any other issues.
A co-worker has had numerous finishes on his 1911, including Cerakote, and he's worn or rusted them all. Steve is hard on finishes. He has "the touch" and can probably rust plastic.
We have a representative from Brownells come down to teach what we call an "Alternative Finishes" class and he does a great job. One of the things Dean is huge on is keeping everything spotlessly clean and free of contamination. We change out our blast media for new stuff and all parts are completely and thoroughly degreased using Brownells TCE. Once "clean," everything to be painted is handled using gloved hands. This may seem a little extreme but we don't have problems with chipping or flaking.
Gunkote is easy to apply, but needs to be baked. This can be problematic for barreled rifle actions if you don't have a paint oven. The temps we bake at can also warp plastic parts. If we have something that can't go into an oven, we use Brownells Aluma-Hyde II in the spray can. You can bake Aluma-Hyde, but it isn't required. This is what we use on plastic parts or parts you can't or don't want to bake. Aluma-Hyde seems to be fairly durable.
I've used the spray can versions on Durakote and it went on smooth and looked good when done. Usually Durakote requires mixing and the use of a sprayer, but they've had a spray can version out for a few years now.
A lot of our customers ask for Cerakote, because that seems to be the most popular finish right now. A while back everyone asked for Durakote. When we explain that we use Gunkote, they usually don't have a problem with that. I don't recall anyone coming back to complain about flaking or premature wear.
Just in case anyone's interested, Brownells will be sending Dean out again this summer as part of our NRA Summer Gunsmithing Program. He'll be here week 1, June 19th to the 24th. Here's our catalog- http://www.mscok.edu/academics/depar...r_program.aspx (Click where it says 2017 Catalog). There's a cool picture of Dean on page 4 painting some stuff.
Last edited by John 242; 01-13-2017 at 01:16 AM.
Oh I would love to take some of those courses. Just to far for me.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
Where are you Boolit Head?Originally Posted by Boolit_Head
There are four schools that have NRA affiliated summer classes: Lassen in CA, Trinidad in CO, MSC in OK and Montgomery in NC.
In Texas on the Coast so Ok is probably the closest.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
We're in southern Oklahoma, about 30 to 45 min north of the Red river and about 2 hrs north of Dallas. We're a small, rural community college, but we've been doing NRA summer classes since 1996 or so. Full-time classes since 1979.
John, I tried to download the catalog in the link you provided but it crashes chrome on my phone. Not sure what is going on and it may be on my end.
"Is all this REALLY necessary?"
Questions that haven't yet been asked: Is either product usable for I.D. of barrels; and is either product usable for lock work? I refer to these products' ability to both protect metal and to provide self-lubricating surfaces. These uses would be particularly useful during a winter like we're having in central west Montana - that is, extreme cold with lots of snow mixed with freezing rain. While I would not expect these finishes to last years in these conditions, lasting the winter would be a godsend.
It’s so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don’t say it. Sam Levinson
I have only used Duracote (the can with the mixer button on the bottom) and Gun Kote. The Gun Kote was applied 18 yrs ago and it has held up well. I did two shotguns, a 110 Savage, and a .45 auto with Duracote about 6 months ago. The jury is out on these but they are all heavy use guns and so far so good. The best part is knowing there's no rust forming on them from the constant wet/dry conditions of living in the barn or the truck. Best, Thomas.
Not sure how Dura Coat would do for the inside of the barrel, as it is sprayed. I know it works fine inside the action, Caution not to apply to thick.
Sorry, I'm on here off and on from time to time. I was at SHOT and then school started. Besides, they keep me locked in the basement and only feed me bread and water. I have to escape to use the internet.
If you still would like a catalog, let me know I can snail mail you one. I'm not sure if I can email them because their kinda big, but I can try.
Last edited by John 242; 01-30-2017 at 12:20 AM.
I wouldn't use any "paint" type finish inside of a barrel. There's some build up and I doubt that it would last long term anyway. We normally plug the barrels. We also plug the bore when Parkerizing or rust bluing as well.
As mentioned, there is some build up. I wouldn't "paint" tight fitting lockwork, the inside of a receiver that has a tight fitting bolt or anything else where clearance might be an issue.
Most factory guns aren't tightly fitted.
You probably don't want to goop paint onto the frame rails of your Les Baer or coat the bolt and inside of the receiver of your blueprinted 700 with .001 bolt tunnel clearance.
Last edited by John 242; 01-30-2017 at 12:07 AM.
30 years ago I had several guns teflon treated at an industrial gear shop. That stuff is tuff as steel, on revolvers the coating did not etch on the cylinders like it does with other coatings. But it is butt ugly.
I don't have much experience with them, but the newer wonder coating like boron nitride are supposed to be the "bee's knees." My boss wants to play with nickel boron but I'm not "into" it.
Here's a nickel plated 94 that's about to go out the door- The barrel is caustic blued. I did the stock work and bluing. One of my students did the nickel plating.
Last edited by John 242; 01-30-2017 at 12:35 AM.
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