Galling under sprue plate on lee mold

[Strtspdlx]

so I recently got this mold. I have casted with it 3 times. I was trying to heat cycle it to break it in so each session was about 2-300 bullets total. I did use beeswax for lube on the pins and the sprue plate bolt and hold down. and I deburred the edge of the sprue plate with a stone when I first bought it to try and prevent this as it started scraping the top of the mold lightly and now its galled enough to lift the sprue plate a little and causes a little ring around the base that probably doesn't cause anything bad but I can see it and it aggravates me. I don't know what I'm doing wrong and causing this but if I can figure it out id be happy. Thanks

[turtlezx]

id grind a little more off the sprue plate where its hitting

[Dusty Bannister]

Did you also lube the bottom of the sprue plate? Looks like there is something that needs smoothing on the edge of the plate that has created the mark on the mold top.

[RogerDat]

Well you can pretty clearly see where it needs more stoning from the drag marks. Might even be worth a bit of draw filing with a fine file before stoning. Any chance the sprue is getting cut before it is quite fully hardened?

NOE makes a base chamfer tool that will trim any flash off of those bases if you want or need to. They have one that fits in drill or power screwdriver and one that has a handle for doing by hand.

Seems to me I sometimes have trouble with the Lee pivot screw for the plate backing out a bit if it has no set screw to lock it.

[Bzcraig]

Those marks are very symetrically spaced between each cavity, which is odd. I sure can't tell by looking at the photos. Have you tried to lightly rub a cotton ball over the mold/sprue plate to see if there are burrs? That's all I've got.

[retread]

I had that trouble with Lee 6 bangers. Aluminum on aluminum galls. As soon as your disturb the anodizing on the sprue plate you are really in for more galling. I ordered machined steel sprue plates for all my 6 bangers. End of problem. I do not remember the name of the outfit that makes them but as I recall the were about $17 each. Well worth it!

[retread]

OOP! Duplicate

[retread]

KAL Tool and die. They are still a Vendor Sponsor here. Great parts. They also have the lever that can snap when trying to open the sprue plate when your mold is too cold.

[Jeff Michel]

Cast with your mould until it's up to temperature, leaving the bullets in the cavities and lubricate the sprue plate and the top of the mould with a cotton swab dipped in two cycle synthetic oil. You hit the pins and hinge at the same time. Just the barest amount will serve. You won't get rid of all the galling but it will mitigate it considerably. Excessive tin will lead to smearing on moulds as well.

[TXCOONDOG]

Cast with your mould until it's up to temperature, leaving the bullets in the cavities and lubricate the sprue plate and the top of the mould with a cotton swab dipped in two cycle synthetic oil. You hit the pins and hinge at the same time. Just the barest amount will serve. You won't get rid of all the galling but it will mitigate it considerably. Excessive tin will lead to smearing on moulds as well.

+1 ......the two cycle synthetic oil is what I use to season my moulds.

I also deburr a new mould and sprue plate before casting, if needed.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I know some that have claimed success with beeswax, I have never tried it, but I know it will scorch. I use full-synth 2 cyc oil...as per these instructions.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...BullPlate-too)

[longbow]

I'd go with polishing the bottom of the sprue plate using valve lapping compound or fine emery cloth on a flat surface then chamfer the edges of the sprue plate again using fine emery or a diamond hone so it is smooth and shiny. Then use sprue plate lube or synthetic 2 stroke oil to lube the bottom of the sprue plate/top of the mould... just a very light coating. Graphite may help too. And make sure you get lube right to the pivot as well as that is a prime place for galling if not lubed.

Lee moulds are fairly soft aluminum so any dragging is asking for galling but that looks easily repairable at this stage. You might have to lightly polish the top of the mould to flatten off any raised aluminum as well. Again, fine emery on a flat surface should do it. Be careful to keep the mould flat as you polish as you do not want to round the surface. Fine to me = 240 grit or finer and preferably finishing with 400 to 600 grit.

[Idz]

I solved the problem on my Lee molds by spraying the plate and mold top with Frankford Arsenal mold release spray. It also greatly reduced lead flash on the bullet bases.

[Freightman]

I had a old LEE do that I got used took the plate off put it on a flat firm serface with 600 grit emery cloth and oil and smoothed it out the plate and top of the mold to get rid of the marks . Never did that again .

[Strtspdlx]

I did read the link and that was very helpful. I was always afraid to get the lube under the sprue plate as I have had beeswax get into cavities before and leave a nasty coating. I will have to try the 2 stroke oil, also the mold blocks scratched when I first bought the mold the very first time I opened them out of the packaging and went to inspect them. when they shear the material for the sprue plate the pressure leaves a burr, I took my stone and removed that burr on the entire side the sprue plate contacts. I also deburred the mold and it still happened. I had one lee mold this hasn't happened too. all the other molds I have, have done this after minimal use. Then I set out to correct it and it either stops or I cant control it and then the mold is junk.

[John Boy]

I don't know what I'm doing wrong and causing this but if I can figure it out id be happy.

The sprue plate is clamped down too tight. Loosen the screw until when you flip the mold the sprue plate swings open easily. Then smooth the bottom of the plate on a sharpening stone or diamond plate

[ShooterAZ]

Before I even use a Lee mold, I will carefully de-burr the leading edge of the sprue plate with a dremel tool. I also religiously use Noe's sprue plate lube. http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...hqsmnpakeqpre6 . One drop on a q-tip is all you need. Swipe it on the underside of the plate, and wipe any excess off of it with a paper towel or cloth. A little bit goes a long way.

[gwpercle]

Get both the underside of the sprue plate and the block top clean and smooth .
600 grit Wet-or-Dry with oil backed with a flat surface. Remove any burrs , rough edges or galling smears. If you don't things just go from bad to worse.
Whenever you see galling stop and clean it off. Course cloth and steel wool work for me.
Lee moulds should be deburred , de-rough edged and smoothed before ever trying to cast with them. Lee can't afford to do much TLC to them so they get to you in a rough condition.
Clean it up , smooth out surfaces and sharp edges and things will be OK.
I keep a hard flat oil stone just for this kind of work and wrap 600 grit paper around it for a flat backing.
The underside of your sprue plat needs a good cleaning and smoothing out flat and level.
Gary

[flyingrhino]

I had that trouble with Lee 6 bangers. Aluminum on aluminum galls. As soon as your disturb the anodizing on the sprue plate you are really in for more galling. I ordered machined steel sprue plates for all my 6 bangers. End of problem. I do not remember the name of the outfit that makes them but as I recall the were about $17 each. Well worth it!

+1. I had the same issue and resolved it by going to steel sprue plates.

[Tackleberry41]

Lee molds do it easily, its the cheap aluminum alloy they use for molds. I lube my Lee the same as my NOE, Lees still gall alot. Ive even tried swapping sprue plates, to know its not a burr or something. Its just hard steel rubbing on a cheap AL alloy.