ADvertise hereInline FabricationLee PrecisionStainLess Steel Media
Graf & SonsTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 61 to 67 of 67

Thread: DIY 100 pound pot/master caster

  1. #61
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    3,870
    Does your cad software run on DOS?
    Yes, it's old as heck the files are HPGL, torch on/off is pin up/down commands.

  2. #62
    Very nice. Wish I had room for something like that.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SoCal, USA
    Posts
    443
    BIG-little update

    The other day, I added a lever to the spru plate for the 30 cal mold. I was trying to figure out where I wanted the pins to activate the plate but wasn't sure if the setup was even going to work right. The only way to find out is to fire it up and try it. The little plastic hammer I use for my hand molds was on the shelf waiting for a workout, so I dropped some ingots of range scrap in the pot and heated it up.

    This was a brand new NOE brass mold and I had not cleaned it or heat cycled it. That is a bunch of work. Instead, I cleaned it with a qtip and brake cleaner and lubed it then hit it with a propane torch. It took a while to get it to run. After a number of tries, I used brake cleaner to get the excess oil out of the cavities and cranked the pot up to 850 degrees. Eventually, some decent boolits came out. This alloy likely needed some tin added to it but I didn't want to sweeten the pot until I knew it would run. Enlarging the primary spout by 1/32nd of an inch helped but the flow was just adequate with the valve adjustment raised up. There was only 2-3" of lead in the pot, so I won't drill the spout just yet. When I get it half full or so, the flow will increase. The arms for the mold carrier needed lube to move freely. The heat made them stick.

    Below is what I have. The GC shanks are plenty big and are a bit of a pain to get the hornady copper checks on and even the aluminum checks from a person here. Hopefully it won't slow me down on sizing. The heater was not turned on for the RCBS LAM I, and it has Cred in it, so very little lube ended up on those two boolits.

    Now, I can make a basket and figure out pins to work the spru plate. It was really nice not holding the mold in my hand and will be better when I don't have to work the spru plate. Automation is in it's future.



  4. #64
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    803
    Those are some fine looking projectiles right there, well done!

    Glad it's all coming together as you had hoped, and its producing some great projectiles.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    3,870
    Been awhile, how is the progress going?

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    SoCal, USA
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Been awhile, how is the progress going?
    Life has gotten in the way a bit. I have multiple positions in the gun club, including a board position, and there has been plenty of drama to deal with. The heat and my neck and back issues have slowed me down, on top of the usual obligations in life.

    The boolits want to stick in the mold. I found an article on here that talked about using vinegar, peroxide, or both to patina a brass mold. I followed the directions and heat cycled it and it has a decent patina, but they still stick.

    The thermocouple went bad on my pot, so I ordered a new 10" version from auberins and got that working last night. The temp was good. When the mold gets good and hot, it takes too long for the sprue to solidify. Moving the handle too early results in lead pouring down into my boolit tray. A fan may be in order to freeze it faster and keep the speed up so the mold stays hot. The bands fill out better when the brass molds are good and hot. The spring on my valve is too weak and I have to baby sit it. The valve doesn't seal perfectly. A catch tray for the drips would help.

    Last night, I ran an aluminum cooking pan under the mold to catch the boolits and sprues, but I need to make proper baskets. The sprue plate moves a tad, when I tap the mold and then the arm is a bit beyond the pin that opened it, which then requires I bump it back. The weight on the sprue plate may need to be adjusted so it is more balanced when the mold is open.

    Out of the last two tries, I got about a hundred usable but not great boolits. They should get me through the lever action match this month.

    I didn't hear back from the guy who I was going to buy the automation setup from and I have not reached back out to him with the slow progress on the machine and with having other bills to pay.

    I might pull the 30 cal mold and cast by hand and figure out why the boolits stick. When I do that, I could run the new 40 cal NOE mold and see if it drops well. There are still two rcbs molds to be adapted, but right now I really needed those Saeco 315 boolits more than anything.

    It sucks that photobucket went to hell. Forums are the only social media I use and threads like this are now screwed up. Hopefully, I'll get some of these little issues mopped up with this machine and be able to rely on it.

  7. #67
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    803
    Glad you made a little progress, shame you still get projectiles sticking. I found an acetylene flame, no oxygen so it's nice and sooty on the mould halves seems to do a good job of making them non stick.

    I'm with you with photobucket, they want like $500 usd to allow third party hosting, they can stick that somewhere unpleasant. I'll need to look for another free hosting site i think, little pic or tiny pic i thought was a site. I'll have to do some hunting, as i use other forums, and his has boned them too.

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check