Copper tubing for jackets

[BT Sniper]

Starting a new thread for what it takes to make jackets from copper tubing....

Here is a look at the tooling necessary to make 3 different length 30 cal jackets from 5/16" copper tubing, the process and tooling is similar, if not exactly the same for 1/4" and 3/8" tubbing as well. It does take more pressure the larger the tubing is.

I use the soft rolled copper tubing with these dies.



3 separate length copper tubing jacket forming base punches ($249.00 ea.)
1 copper tubing jacket form die ($499.00)
1 draw die to reduce the jackets from .316-.305 ($249.00)
1 draw die for the lead cores to take them down from nominal .250" to .233" ($249.00)
2 draw die push through base punches that double as flat end finishing to jackets ($69.00 ea.)
1 lead draw die push through base punch ($69.00)
1 core seat base punch for the thicker walled copper tubing jackets ($69.00)

all set to exact diameters and lengths..... a bit of labor on my part.



Brian

[35whelenshooter]

Brian,

They look absolutely stunning, is 30 caliber the only set that you are making??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BT Sniper]

I have supplied tubbing jacket dies for 1/4" 5/16" and 3/8" tubing sizes. Once the jacket is formed in these sizes it can be drawn down to any smaller caliber.

Also have some dies on order for 1/2" copper tubing for pistol jackets.

BT

[MUSTANG]

I purchased a set of dies for making .308 jackets from BTSniper several years ago and made thousands of Jackets with them.

The display in Post #1 does not call out what I would consider the “First Step” equipment requirements. That being the cutting of 5/16 (or other Tubing sized) to make jackets. Some thoughts based on my Copper tubing Jacket making efforts for a few years:

1. Copper tubing. I use 5/16 inch Refrigeration Tubing in coils of 50 feet. A 50 Foot roll will make slightly over 500 Jackets for my 175 Grain Full Jacketed .308 needs. Easiest place to purchase is Amazon. The outside diameter is 5/16 inch; with the walls being about .030 to .032 dependent upon the manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration...5&sr=8-11&th=1


Used to be I could get “Free Prime Shipping”; not sure on current purchases. There are other potential vendors to be found on the Internet.

2. Cutting the Tubing to size to make Jackets is the next step. This will require a Caliber and knife (cheap kitchen paring knife or pocket knife – will require sharpening every 30 or 40 scoring efforts). I use the caliber to precisely locate the length; and score a mark on the copper tubing to show where the next cut of the tubing will occur.

3. Many will cut sections of tubing, roll them on a flat surface to get the cut section straight. Then cut jacket blanks from these sections. I do NOT follow this process as I believe it leads to considerable wastage. Instead, from the 50 foot coil I carefully straighten about a foot of the coil end, and then cut a few jacket blanks off using the measurement process described in #2 above. Lengths of the cut copper tubing are dependent on the caliber, nose profile, desired bullet weight, and potentially other factors. For a 175 Grain bullet using my set up; I cut my Jacket Blanks to 1.130 inches.

4. Cutting the Jacket Blank. There are two principle methods for cutting a jacket blank for making Copper Tubing Jackets. The use of a Mini Chop Saw or a Tubing Cutter.

a. Mini Chop Saw – This seems to be the choice for many. If one choses this; then a “Length Stop” is required. Harbor Freight carries an inexpensive model that is currently $29.00; regular price $35.00. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-m...saw-62136.html

Attachment 319270

I fabricated a “Length Stop” for cutting jacket blanks using a small metal “L” bracket from Ace Hardware that had two holes predrilled on each arm of the L. Bracket. One side was secured with screws to a board and the other arm was my Stop. I used a machine screw with double nuts so that the 5/16 copper tubing would go over the free end of the machine screw, the length of exposed screw was adjusted with the cut of the blade on the mini saw to result in a jacket blank meeting my cut length requirement of 1.130 inches.

There will be a minor variation on cut lengths. These cut blanks will need inside of the mouth and outside of the mouth “Deburred:” similar to deburring a trimmed brass case. because of roughness and small lips at the final cut section.

b. Tubing cutter: This is my preferred method; but seems to be less popular than others. Originally I used a Mini Tubing cutter similar to the Ridgid brand 3/16 to 15/16 mini tubing cutter, cost is about $16.00. These can be found at Home Depot or other hardware stores. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-3...2985/100021967



I prefer a larger tubing cutter, in particular the Home Flex tubing cutter because of roller support being much wider; providing a very good surface that actually rolls out some surface imperfections remaining from unwinding the copper tubing roll prior to cutting. The larger size also makes it less cumbersome to use for me, and less tiring when cutting jacket blanks while “Multi-Processing watching the news or a Movie. These can be found at Home depot or other hardware stores for about $45.00. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HOME-FLE...2125/204767432



The same method for marking/scoring the tubing where the cut will be made is used as described in (a) above using a knife to mark, and then placing the Tubing cutter exactly on the score mark. Cuts should be 360 degrees one way (i.e. Clockwise), and the Reversing direction 360 degrees (i.e. counter clockwise). Incrementally screw the cutters in for cuts until the newly created Jacket blank falls from the end of the copper tubing coil.

Using the copper tubing cutter will result in the inside sidewalls being pressed slightly inward, as well as an inward beveled outside at the mouth. Placing the Jacket blank onto the rounded punch will be more difficult than the Mini Chop saw route, but holding it on the rounded punch while cycling the press handle results in it going into the doming die is not that difficult. I feel I get a better “Dome” on the Jacket with the Tubing cutter compared to the Mini Chop saw; - but to each their own.

c. After the Jacket Blank is “Domed”; it then will need to have the Dome Flattened to a square base where a very small center hole (pin Sized) remains on my jackets. The flattened jacket Blank is then sized to about .307 in the sizing die where it “Grows the Length” of the final jacket; for my 175 grain Bullet Jackets this is about 1.165 Inches long with a flat base on the jacket. It is then further processed in my Corbin .308 Swage dies.