WidenersSnyders JerkyRepackboxTitan Reloading
Load DataReloading EverythingInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters Supply
RotoMetals2 Lee Precision
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 35

Thread: Just Wheel weights lead ok for hunting boolits?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Hubbardton vermont
    Posts
    111

    Just Wheel weights lead ok for hunting boolits?

    Usually in my 3030 I cast 5050 wheel weight, pure lead. Now I have a 357 carbine and am wondering if I would be ok using just wheel weight lead to make the hunting boolit? Sorry if its a dumb question but Im wondering the difference, I've only done the 3030 before and I have a lot more wheel weight lead than pure. Thanks, Craig.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    N edge of D/FW Metromess
    Posts
    10,502
    I've been experimenting with pure WW's in a couple of hunting rifles, two deer in the freezer and very short tracking jobs this season. I think the 50/50 may be a better alloy but on our tiny S TX deer I'm not really looking for expansion. I think a big meplat has more influence than the alloy but I'm still gathering data. I don't want to go too soft because every now and then I want to anchor a big hog and sometimes that involves breaking major bones.
    Endowment Life Member NRA, Life Member TSRA, Member WACA, NRA Whittington Center, BBHC
    Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
    I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call, Lonesome Dove
    Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of depleted counterbalance devices.

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    wainwright AB
    Posts
    74
    Alot of guys here advocate 50/50 wheel weight and pure, i switched to 50/50 using clip ons and stick ons for hunting and found it preformed great, however the deer still died when i used straight acww and while i didnt recover the bullet, it did made a big hole on its way out.

  4. #4
    Perma-Banned



    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    2,712
    I am in the process of resolving this for myself. I know for a fact that the WW alloy will anchor them...seen it work on a pile. But, of late, I am thinking that a little expansion will work better at DRT...no run off. I hunt some places that if a deer runs 50yds...the recovery difficulty is greatly increased. We have only killed a couple of deer with straight WW bullets, that dropped at the shot, regardless of where they were hit (generally, we don't do neck shots)

    Now, I may be chasing my tail on this...but I am going to try to get some better results.
    Last edited by shoot-n-lead; 12-28-2016 at 01:03 AM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master





    SSGOldfart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    2,178
    You might need a little tin to help fill out your mold and go little heavy on your lube,watch for leading in your rifles.
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    4,506
    Yes..
    Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.

  7. #7
    Banned



    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    7,068
    I only ever killed one with wheel weights plus two ounces of tin to a ten pound pot. One of the more dramatic kills terminal performance wise, but the deer was very, very close, like ten yards from the tree I was in. It did make a big exit hole with a lot of bleeding and the deer only went 50 feet or so. Bullet was an old Ideal 31141 from a .30-30.

    Something to consider; while eating the heart from that one which the bullet had grazed, I found a sliver of lead. It was the only deer I ever killed with cast that I found a piece of the bullet in and it led me to believe the bullet fractured somewhat, so I took Larry Gibson's advice on the 50/50 and it hasn't done wrong by me yet.

  8. #8
    In Remembrance - Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist

    RP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nahunta NC
    Posts
    3,410
    A big factor to consider is what rifle or pistol your using it in not a one answer ? for all casters. I have a 357 rifle and pistol the same round in the rifle is faster and the results on deer show how much the added speed helps. I was using a different rifle with cast to hunt with the speed was on the low end and using wws alloy the bullet went in and out very little damage. I did some testing on wet paper and found my bullets were not expanding at all. I put the rifle up and been working on rounds with softer alloy before I shoot a deer with something that is not up to doing the job.
    So kind of what I am trying to point out is speed and size of bullet kind of dictate the how hard or soft your bullet needs to be for the best results. To fast and to hard they explode to slow and to hard they poke a hole in and out so I always want my bullet to expand. But that is my thinking and what I have seen in my experiments so far.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  9. #9
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,088
    lots of good ideas so far.
    my buckets have pretty much all come with about 3 parts clip on ww's and 1 part stick on ww's.
    [well,, since they started using stick on ww's anyway.]
    so I started mixing my alloy with that proportion rather than try to figure out what to do with a bunch of extra lead.
    it's worked out pretty good up till now.

  10. #10
    In Remembrance


    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan Thumb Area
    Posts
    5,948
    I only have 1 deer kill using ACWW. Using a 7 1/2" Blackhawk .44 Mag. with a RCBS 245 gr. boolet it took 1 shot at 30 yds on a fork horn. I don`t think he went 20 yards with the damage it did to him. Since then I have gone pretty much in all boolets with 50/50.Robert

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Quilcene, Washington
    Posts
    3,668
    I wouldn't be too committed to using WW's given that most liberal states are banning lead wheel weights. My experience from casting bendable lead fishing jigs to sell for the last 35 years has been that one batch of WW's will produce a nice product while the next would be so brittle that the jig would crack at the first attempt to bend. One batch could shoot well and be excellent for hunting while the next, not so much. Plumbing and roofing lead are more consistently pure so doing a 50/50 will probably give you a better and more trustworthy product over the long term.

  12. #12
    Boolit Man
    Bomberman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    97
    The doe that I took this year with the 311041 was with water quenched WW...that's really all I use in my rifles. Small hole going in, inch wide hole coming out. So to answer your question, yes they work quite well.
    Chuck

    Any problem can be solved with the correct application of explosives.

    The 2nd amendment was never intended to allow private citizens to 'keep and bear arms.' If it had, there would have been wording such as 'the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -Ken Konecki, July 27, 1992

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Soda Springs, Idaho
    Posts
    1,093
    Here's what I've done for 50 years & it's worked pretty well for me, your results may vary. I'll start with what I use most often & that's 70/30. That's 70% WW's & 30% lead & I'm looking for about 1000 fps or slightly faster, it has to be accurate. If I need more speed I change to 80/20 & look for around 1100 fps, if I move up to 1200 fps I change 90/10 alloy. If I go beyond 1200 fps I use straight WW's, air cooled, again accuracy has to be there & I might have to "tweak" this a bit. When I go the other way "down" in velocity I use 60/40 WW & lead & I'm looking for around 900 fps, if I want 800 fps I use 50/50 alloy.

    This has worked really well on moose, 11 elk, several bears, antelope, no ideal how many deer, small game, in Africa, Alaska, on my lion. Many, many hunters have used this alloy with the Miha 385 gr. bullet in their 480's & 475's to take came all over the world with great success & some bullets start out at 390 grs. & weigh 388-389 grs. when recovered from large Bison, huge feral hogs etc & expansion close to .8-1".

    Not saying this is the way to go, saying this is the way I go & it has worked very well. If your alloy works for you, use it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Marion, NC
    Posts
    232
    Answer is: It depends. On boolit speed, shape, toughness of target, etc; Read blammers posts on his Whelen adventures. At 1900 fps. 50-50 is the stuff. Push to 2500 and you have to use COWW and water drop. I use 50-50 and run slow. The whelen or the 35 Rem. either one leaves 2 inch exit holes and really dead critters. Trajectory suffers but I hunt thickets so it don't matter to me.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    144
    I've noticed that the hardness and alloy quality has changed over the years. I started casting in 1954 loading for the 30-30 and 30-06. For some reason never hunter deer with the 06 and cast but did take 15 deer with the Lyman #311291 and two more much later on with the RCBS #30-180-FN. Both bullets loaded to about 1900 to 1950 FPS (estimated). Deer shot, deer dies. I did recover a few bullets but most exited. Last really big batch of WW I bought was in 1973 and they cast very beautiful bullets with ease. No need for extra tin. A few years back I was given several very full buckets of wheel weights, so ran a batch of bullets for the .357 Mag. I still had some of the 1973 weights so I ran some bullets with it as well. Broke out the old LBT tester and it was very interesting. The 1973 weights had an average of 14 BHN according to the tester. The freebies ran at 10 to 11 BHN according to the tester. They needed a bit of tin to cast as well as the earlier batch. Both sets of bullets shot very well with the best groups coming from the newer batch of metal.
    At my age, I seriously doubt there are very many hunts left. Probably most shooting I'll do now will be at paper at the range. Most of that will likely be cast.
    Paul B.
    POLITICAL CORRECTNESS IS AN OXYMORON PROMULGATED BY MORONS.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Markbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Tomball, Texas
    Posts
    1,169
    If sixshot says it, I believe it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    The deep south,... of Vermont!
    Posts
    4,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Markbo View Post
    If sixshot says it, I believe it.
    Not many with his level of experience on here, and yep, he has the pics to back it up. I'd listen to what he has to say.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,597
    I have found that wheel weight alloy has changed over the years. It used to be about 14 bhn, now it is about12.Since I use both handguns and rifles, I use different alloys. For varmints with rifles ,linotype is used. For deer with revolvers a softer 50/50 ww/lead is used. With rifles on deer, straight acww is used for velocities around 2000 fps.

  19. #19
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    windber, pa
    Posts
    1,298
    i've only killed two deer using a cast boolit, so take it for what its worth(i don't, but you can). last year, i shot a doe that was measured by a laser range finder , at 93 yards. i was using my 30-40 krag with 165gr ranch dog with clip on wheel weights that goes 1800fps. it went straight down and didn't run. this year i shot another doe at 20ish yards with my 444 marlin and a 275gr ranch dog with clip on wheel weights that goes 2000fps. it went straight down too.

    both boolits exited, the 30-40 krag looked like a 1" exit, while the 444 looked around 3" exit. the 30-40 did go thru the leg/shoulder? and then it destroyed the upper lungs. the heart, while hit, seemed as if you had put a pencil thru it. the 444 just went into the deer, no bones(except for a rib or two) were broken. both lower lungs and the lower heart have been destroyed.

    now i can do at length what bullet(nosler, hornady...) can do. i am a novice on what the cast boolit can/cannot do. so far, the boolits work good.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Markbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Tomball, Texas
    Posts
    1,169
    And THAT is why I listen to sixshot! I could smelt, mix and cast 4 different alloys and make 5 different bullets out of the 4 alloys and shoot that many deer to get results. Legally that would take me 4 years. And that is for only 1 caliber!

    Or I could learn from a few of the oldtimers that I really respect their opinions because I dont have the time left on Earth to test everything they have already tested first hand over the years.

    If I can gleen information that is important TO ME and get just 1 or 2 great options per caliber I can do what I have time left to do. Hunt deer with 1/2 dozen different handgun calibers (I dont cast for rifles) and another 1/2 dozen rifle calibers that I reload for.

    This is what separates us from other animals-the ability to learn from others experience. And I for one try my best to hang onto all those tidbits that interest me.

    Thank you Oldtimers. I couldn't do it without you!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check