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Thread: NOE 311-202-RN--Mixed Feelings...

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    412
    I had the same problem today with my NOE 5 cavity HG34 clone . I got mine to putting out good bullets by turning the lead up to 700 and really heating the mold on a hot plate . I'm used to Lyman steel molds and this is a different beast . Run the mold hot and fast with a generous spruce seemed to work for me . When they started to wrinkle I would put it back on the hot plate and grab another mold .

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,941
    As said already... cast hot and fast. Pre-heat the mould until sprue plate lube just starts to smoke which is a bit hot for casting but is a good starting point. The first few pours will take a few seconds for the sprue to harden then the mould will cool a bit. keep casting fast and steady with hot alloy.

    I have the same mould in 0.316" and it acts like a brass mould ~ likes hot alloy and fast steady casting to keep the mould blocks hot. If you keep the mould blocks hot you should have no trouble with stickers.

    I cut the sprue while the alloy is still a bit soft then drop boolits out onto a soft towel.

    It works for me.

    Longbow

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA
    Posts
    2,138
    Well, I thought I would just follow-up on this topic I started so the thread doesn’t necessarily hang there…

    The final boolits I cast at a quite high temperature--800°+ and most were good…

    I continue to have the problem with the boolits sticking on the side under the sprue plate…

    Before I put the mold away, I did use a bit of steel wool on a dowel to polish the cavities. I also cleaned the mold with brake solvent and then thoroughly cleaned with Dawn and hot water using a toothbrush. This is my normal cleaning method on all dies. I then put it on a hot water heating run in my house and left it dry completely…

    Now we will see what the next casting session brings!...

    Just a couple of comments on the boolits:

    1. They are of ample diameter to size to 0.311”. That is what I am doing…

    2. The front section of the boolit is 0.301+ so it fits the bore nicely. It won’t enter the end of the
    Barrel so it probably actually grabs the grooves slightly…

    3. I loaded some for my T/C Contender in 30-30 Winchester. It shoots amazingly well—actually
    Better than the 311041 and it was very accurate. The 311-202-RN will rattle my 5.5”x11”
    Steel at 250 yards from a good bench rest—I can’t ask for better than that…

    Now, if it will just perform in my 30-40 Krag barrel I have on order from MGM…

    Thanks all…BCB

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy 3584ELK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    S. Dakota
    Posts
    130
    I too have had issues with the first couple of sessions with NOE moulds. Nonetheless, as stated above, a couple of hundred bullets will solve the problems and you will be another loyal NOE customer. I only wish he carried more stock on hand...
    An Honest Man Keeps His Horse Saddled
    http://www.cardinalguns.com
    http://www.riflehunter.net

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check