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Thread: Need Chevy truck Advice (year 2000)

  1. #41
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    First I've heard about this "piston slap". On my 2000 Silverado, I figured it was just a sticky lifter.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Overall, I've good service out of my GM products. I had the 6.2L in my wife's 2013 Yukon Denali drop a rod through the block at 6x000 miles and replaced under warranty. Had several small issues and some fuel pump and line issues. We traded it on a 2016 and so far so good but I just did its first oil change.

    I've typically bought Ford products and I've had overall fewer problems with them and within our family.

    Every manufacturer has had teething problems. Every model has its quirks however I feel all 3 domestics build a decent full size truck. In that early 2000's model id look at GM or Ford with the 4.6L. The 5.4L has had issues over the years including shallow spark plug threads in older 5.4L and cam phaser issues in the 2004+ years. The new 5.0L coyote motor has been stellar.

  3. #43
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    The new 5.0L coyote motor has been stellar.
    have to agree. The coyote is the best motor ford has ever made.

  4. #44
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I bought the 2000 Chev C2500 from my friend today.

    Both doors have a little rust on the bottom, but the Cab, Rockers, and cab corners are clean.
    The Driver side front fender has a bit of rust showing through the paint in "front" of the wheel well, by the bumper (I thought that was a strange spot?)...but the rest of the fender well is clean. The passenger front fender is clean as well as the rear fenders are clean.

    The 5.7 starts easy, cold start this morning at 15º, Popped right off and runs nice and quiet. Drives great too, almost like a car. The transmission shifts smoothly. The 5.7 and it's Vortec fuel delivery (throttlebody injection?) is a bit doggy compared to my 71 with the hot rod engine...but then again, I didn't stomp on the accelerator either. also, it has a good solid feel on the brake pedal (I've had plenty of vehicles with poor brakes, beside the recent "complete" brake line replacement, it had a full brake job about 12k miles ago. The tires have about half tread, so I should be good there for a while. It's a 17 year old "plain" truck in otherwise terrific condition.







    Driver side door



    passenger side door
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    New vehicle to start the New Year. Way to go.

  6. #46
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    well shucks, Dead battery in this truck yesterday morning (-10º).
    one of the battery terms had some corrosion and it was a tiny bit loose.
    It's a Diehard. Do They still make Diehard batteries?
    there is no Date of purchase on it? I wonder how old it is?

    Anyway, that morning, I cleaned both connections and put a thin layer of grease on the cable ends and sideposts and bolts, then charged it for a an hour and then used it for running errands for an hour or so.

    It's snowing today, so I'll just let it sit...and will try starting it tomorrow.
    I suppose it'll be best to replace it...I hate walking home
    The good news The farm store has a "Friday the 13th" sale on Friday, everything in the store 13% off.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #47
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    I sold my old truck tonight (1971 Chev C20 Camper Special). So if any boolit casters see it driving around the Owatonna, MN area, it's not me.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post3885782



    edited: Oh, I bought a new battery for the 2000 C2500...didn't seem worth the risk of running aorund with a 'suspect' battery.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    The Chevy 5.3 and 5.7 are good motors.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master MarkP's Avatar
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    Nice looking truck; Your 5.7 will be port injection (Vortec) 87 - 95 had the throttle body injection.

  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have a 2000 Silverado 4x4 2500 standard cab and 8 foot bed with 160,000 that I bought new. The engine should be either the LQ4 6.0 litre (the last Chevy V8 with iron block and heads), the 8.1 litre big block or the 6.5 litre turbo Diesel, these three engines were the only ones offered for the 3/4 ton that year. It's also a single year model as the following year Chevy started calling the 3/4 ton trucks the HD model and some of the parts changed. Despite what some internet parts catalogs show, the 1999 3/4 ton was the previous truck generation with the 5.7 litre (350 small block) and nothing interchanges properly. The 5 speed manual transmission is the NV4500 (all engines), this tranny has a syncro granny low gear and fifth is an overdrive. An automatic transmission is the 4L80E if gas engine or the Allison automatic if a diesel.
    This engine does have the piston slap problem, and yes, the gas gauge lasts 1-2 years then goes crazy and it's easier to replace the entire pump assembly than it is to just replace the sender unit. I never bothered replacing my sending unit etc because it was all over the internet that the "fix" was temporary. My gas gauge currently shows empty when the tank is full, when it gets down to about 7/8 the needle will very slowly - repeat very slowly - climb to show the correct reading, then instantly fall back to empty and again start slowly climbing. This cycle takes about 10 minutes when the tank is half empty. Yes, the brake lines will rust out and some trucks got recalled for new brake lines if it was sold in the upper mid-west where they salt the roads in the winter, other parts of the country didn't get the recall.

  11. #51
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    Little advice for you conserning the rust. Just take a DA or for that matter any kind of sander and remove tape off and scuff up about 6 inches all the way along the bottom of the truck and repair any rust through holes. Then buy yourself a upol raptor bed liner kit from ebay or amazon. It even comes with a spray gun and is real easy to get professional results with. If you leave it your going to shortly have holes in the truck. The kits only about a 100 bucks and would be a good investment for you if you plan on keeping it for a while. Theres enough in the kit to do 3 coats on an average truck bed. It comes in a couple bottles so you can mix enough to do 3 coats on your lower body and have enough left over to do another truck or to redo it down the line. Ive done 4 trucks like that, two truck beds and the whole inside of my 2000 jeep tj. Its so easy to get good results with I think a monkey could spray it. You will need at least a 3hp compressor to do it right.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    For the rust, consider a product called Ospho, which is just phosphoric acid. It kills rust by converting it from iron oxide to iron phosphate, turns it black. You can then paint over it. Can pour it inside the doors too to kill the rust from the inside. Check it out.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    Little advice for you conserning the rust. Just take a DA or for that matter any kind of sander and remove tape off and scuff up about 6 inches all the way along the bottom of the truck and repair any rust through holes. Then buy yourself a upol raptor bed liner kit from ebay or amazon. It even comes with a spray gun and is real easy to get professional results with. If you leave it your going to shortly have holes in the truck. The kits only about a 100 bucks and would be a good investment for you if you plan on keeping it for a while. Theres enough in the kit to do 3 coats on an average truck bed. It comes in a couple bottles so you can mix enough to do 3 coats on your lower body and have enough left over to do another truck or to redo it down the line. Ive done 4 trucks like that, two truck beds and the whole inside of my 2000 jeep tj. Its so easy to get good results with I think a monkey could spray it. You will need at least a 3hp compressor to do it right.
    Quote Originally Posted by rondog View Post
    For the rust, consider a product called Ospho, which is just phosphoric acid. It kills rust by converting it from iron oxide to iron phosphate, turns it black. You can then paint over it. Can pour it inside the doors too to kill the rust from the inside. Check it out.
    About a decade ago, I used a product called Neutrarust on a couple different rusty metal outdoor projects and worked well, goes on white, then turns black. Sounds like Ospho, maybe? (I don't know the details, just knew it worked).

    My close friend who is a veggie farmer in the summer and does auto-body in the winter, self-employed since 1975, doing antique cars and tractors mostly. He has used Neutrarust with mixed results, as well as many other products like it. When I showed him the truck, he suggested Chassis Saver. He says this stuff is incredible. He said for a truck like mine, that'll never be a beauty queen, he said, just brush it on and pour some down inside the door. Precautions need to be taken, as this stuff doesn't come off. He said avoid contact with skin or clothes you don't want to throw away, and/or any surface of the truck you don't want it on. For a auto-body guy, who's been in the business for 4 decades, I suspect that statement means something.



    http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird View Post
    I have a 2000 Silverado 4x4 2500 standard cab and 8 foot bed with 160,000 that I bought new. The engine should be either the LQ4 6.0 litre (the last Chevy V8 with iron block and heads), the 8.1 litre big block or the 6.5 litre turbo Diesel, these three engines were the only ones offered for the 3/4 ton that year. It's also a single year model as the following year Chevy started calling the 3/4 ton trucks the HD model and some of the parts changed. Despite what some internet parts catalogs show, the 1999 3/4 ton was the previous truck generation with the 5.7 litre (350 small block) and nothing interchanges properly. The 5 speed manual transmission is the NV4500 (all engines), this tranny has a syncro granny low gear and fifth is an overdrive. An automatic transmission is the 4L80E if gas engine or the Allison automatic if a diesel.
    This engine does have the piston slap problem, and yes, the gas gauge lasts 1-2 years then goes crazy and it's easier to replace the entire pump assembly than it is to just replace the sender unit. I never bothered replacing my sending unit etc because it was all over the internet that the "fix" was temporary. My gas gauge currently shows empty when the tank is full, when it gets down to about 7/8 the needle will very slowly - repeat very slowly - climb to show the correct reading, then instantly fall back to empty and again start slowly climbing. This cycle takes about 10 minutes when the tank is half empty. Yes, the brake lines will rust out and some trucks got recalled for new brake lines if it was sold in the upper mid-west where they salt the roads in the winter, other parts of the country didn't get the recall.
    Thanks for your input firebird, if you've read the whole thread, you'll find out (as I did), Chevy also put out a C2500 in the older C/K body style in 2000, besides the Silverado. Photo's on post #44 and yes, it's a 5.7 (350). I'm not sure if it was mentioned in this thread or other places on the interweb, where I have been discussing this, but some knowledgeable chevy aficionados claim Chevy had extra parts, so even though they came out with the Silverado, in 2000, they also cranked out a bunch of basic "work" trucks with the old body style parts they had laying around...and my truck is basic, hand-crank windows, no Key Fob...manual door locks, an after market radio has been installed, so I'm thinking it came without a radio as well...Also, I was really surprised when I discovered it has the old style "sealed beam" head lights.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  15. #55
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    Ive used the rust stop products but to be effective you cant just brush over rusty metal. Ive done it and up here in salt country it might buy you a year and youll find it flaked off and rust trapped underneath. You also can get inside of rocker panels or frame rails with it to stop rust from that's on the inside coming out. If you do use it you about have to wire brush the metal to bare removing at least 99 percent of the rust. What ive found is your better off wire brushing, using an acid etch primer and putting coating of bed liner on top. The bed linner is a much tougher finish that resists rock chips and scratches which expose bare metal and allow rust to start. An acid etch prime will stop rust as well as any of the rust stop products and is a heck of a lot less messy to deal with. Either way both need a durable top coat or you wasted your time.

  16. #56
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I cut up a Hackberry tree and a downed Elm log today, and got to make the first haul with the new truck.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check