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Thread: Imperial sizing wax. Has anybody tried making it better ?

  1. #61
    In Remembrance
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    Been using lanolin and alcohol mixture for forty years. Put cases in bread pan over folded paper towel spray lightly, shaked around spray again set aside to dry. Ready to work in a few minutes. After loading if one is sticky wipe with rag or paper towel.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master 6622729's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLYCUTTER View Post
    Has anyone tried to duplicate or improve on Imperial die wax ? That stuff is over $4. a ounce and I know there are a lot of intelligent minds out there that can make this stuff cheaper.
    I don't know how you make Imperial better. As for the $4 an ounce, are you serious? This is where you chose to try to save money or make a change? I have loaded thousands of 223 and 300AAC rounds and still using the original tin of Imperial and not a stuck case yet. Also not a dented case either. How heavy is that guy applying this stuff? It takes very little and is THE case lube for me.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6622729 View Post
    I don't know how you make Imperial better. As for the $4 an ounce, are you serious? This is where you chose to try to save money or make a change? I have loaded thousands of 223 and 300AAC rounds and still using the original tin of Imperial and not a stuck case yet. Also not a dented case either. How heavy is that guy applying this stuff? It takes very little and is THE case lube for me.
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  4. #64
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    I bought some lanolin and beeswax from Randy a few months ago. I mixed up some lanolin/beeswax and added enough olive oil so it didn't get overly hard and use that. A small plastic jar full should last for quite some time. Yesterday I loaded up 50 rounds of 30-06 and used it to full length size them. Works like a champ.
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  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ola View Post
    Bag Balm... we don't have around here. But we have a legendary product for similar use called Tummeli. The incredients are:

    Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Paraffin, Cetyl Alcohol, Cera Microcristallina, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyamidopropyl Biguanide, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

    Would that be usable as case lube?
    No Bag Balm? It's my hometowns most famous product and is great for about everything skin related and I did try it as case lube. Works fine for that too.
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  6. #66
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    Imperial seemed like a nuisance to me at first, but its SIMPLE and the most affective lube ive ever used! A little goes a LOOOOONG way!!

  7. #67
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    I loaded a few rifle rounds today, using the imperial lube. I know I've had it for more than six years but it looks like I just opened it today. It lasts longer than the Energizer Bunny.
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  8. #68
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    If you buy two cans, the shipping in a small Priority Box will cost almost as much...
    By time you use the first one up you will have spent about $600 for powder and primers.

  9. #69
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    A can (Imperial) lasts so long I was beginning to think it replenished itself. I once lost the lid for over a year and found it on the bottom of the can. It fit so well I didn't see it.
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  10. #70
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    4 bucks for a tin of something that'll last for years sounds like a bargain to me. Amazes me the monetary expectations some folks have, like demanding 20+ reloads from a piece of brass they paid 3 cents for.....

  11. #71
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    Improving on Imperial Wax? I think that is an exercise in futility.

    I've stuck cases using RCBS lube and a few other lubes. I almost stuck cases using petroleum jelly. I have never stuck a case since learning about the existence of imperial wax lube and that was a loooong time ago.

    $4 might seem expensive for such a small amount - but it will last for several years and if you've ever ruined a sizing die - well, for the price of a die, the struggle prior to ruining the die and just the frustration of resizing with squeaks every now and then - knowing that sooner or later ?/#*#.

  12. #72
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    Not needed for regular sizing, but havn't ever found anything better for case forming & other hard, brass stressing sizing.

  13. #73
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    Imperial wax is plenty affordable and does all I need it to do , but I still like trying new stuff , so I don't mind if you all keep trying . at one time I thought the lee past was all I would ever need , then to rcbs with a pad , once I started on some military surplus a friend recommend Imperial wax , then a member hear suggested lanolin and Vaseline , on and on also don't forget mixing up spray on case lube . Please go on to all the mad scientist looking for a bigger better invention .

  14. #74
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    Hornady has a tub of something, but I'll stick to Imperial. I just looked, and I have at least three bottles of the RCBS lube. I have used it before, but my handgun dies are carbide, and I seldom load rifle cases much anymore.
    Last edited by Tom W.; 01-03-2017 at 08:06 PM.
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  15. #75
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    FWIW - I have two tins of Imperial, one is untouched, the other is barely touched although used a lot. But when I get into a loading mood I'll size several hundred cases at once, so I usually use my lanolin/Heet homemade mix. Sprayer is clogged, so I just pour some in my hands, rub together, then paw through a tubful of several hundred rifle cases. Works great! After sizing them all, they go in the tumbler & corncob for a bit. Then I have cases ready for many sessions.

    But for short runs, the Imperial comes out.

  16. #76
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    I have stuck cases with Hornady's Unique, LEE's White paste Lube, RCBS's clear snot lube and then a decade ago I bought my first little tin of Imperial. I've never stuck a case with Imperial or the Kiwi Mink Oil substitute since. But if I was to go back to a commercial lube if I couldn't find Mink oil or Imperial again, I would go back to Hornady's Unique Lube. Its good enough to do most everything Imperial does but you just have to use a bit more to achieve the slickness that Imperial/Kiwi provides.
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  17. #77
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    I don't remember when I began using Imperial, but it's been a good while. I've used it without complaint, but tried several others previously that may have worked as well as Imperial. One of those was a water soluble lube that Redding marketed; they may still sell it. Anyone else try that one?

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6622729 View Post
    I don't know how you make Imperial better. As for the $4 an ounce, are you serious? This is where you chose to try to save money or make a change? I have loaded thousands of 223 and 300AAC rounds and still using the original tin of Imperial and not a stuck case yet. Also not a dented case either. How heavy is that guy applying this stuff? It takes very little and is THE case lube for me.
    I am all about experimentation, but really $4-5 for a supply that will last years? I don't think you can beat that.
    That said, I enjoy reading this type of thread. I have tried JY jelly, it works but a bit thin. I like the RCBS stuff as it is water soluble, as is the Lee, which I also like. I also agree the the "lube pads" are about the most useless thing on a reloading bench. You squirt some on the pad, it does not work in, so the first few cases are gobbed with the **** and need to be wiped off.
    Mostly I use a rag with gun oil on it, throw on some cases, run one in the die, then 4 - maybe 10 until the next lubed case goes in. They all get wiped off after bullet seating. Been doing that for years, never seen any sideaffects.
    Imperial wax I use for cases forming. It works very well, I have had two tins for about 40 years. I will not use them up in my life time. I can't see saving any money running around, collecting ingredients, brewing and testing some new recipe.
    It's a bit like the "best bullet lube" discussion.
    That said, I can't understand why eveybody who might know says use ATM to free up a stuck engine. It work very well.
    Carry on

  19. #79
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    I have used Bair, Pacific, Hornady, Lyman and RCBS mineral oils. I much prefer Imperial except for severe case forming operations.
    I found that Mystik JT-6 High Performance grease is much better for case forming.
    Mystic is an easy to find grease in a 1 lb tub or a 14 oz tube for about $4.00 each. One tube will last a lifetime but it is also a water proof grease mainly used for boat trailer bearings.
    As such it takes a bit of solvent to remove it from cases. However it works much better for forming cases than Imperial.
    EDG

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by lotech View Post
    I don't remember when I began using Imperial, but it's been a good while. I've used it without complaint, but tried several others previously that may have worked as well as Imperial. One of those was a water soluble lube that Redding marketed; they may still sell it. Anyone else try that one?
    I was of the impression that Redding bought the rights to Imperial sizing wax back in the early 2000's - I think all Imperial Sizing Die Wax today comes from the Redding Reloading Equipment Division - I think the 1 oz tin has the green colored label, while the 2oz tin has the white label.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check