If you have one of the older Remington pump rifles (14, 141, 25 etc) and take it down. It won't go back together if the bolt is not cocked.
If you have one of the older Remington pump rifles (14, 141, 25 etc) and take it down. It won't go back together if the bolt is not cocked.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
If you need to re-cock when the bolt is out of the gun, just catch the cocking hook over something sturdy (I use one of the hold down cutouts on the drill press table) and pull the bolt toward you.
First time I took my 141 apart I found that out the hard way too...The bolt is really interesting. I'm not sure I've seen so many machine cuts. It almost doesn't look like a bolt.
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Compared to a Winchester levergun, the Remington pumpgun is a very complex thing to make.
To cock the bolt, I caught the bolt assembly in the padded jaw of a shop vice and using a large screwdriver, pushed on the front of the striker until it caught on the sear. It is pretty easy once your figure out what to do. It took me four hours yesterday to break the code.
None of the literature or videos I have read or seen on the Remington pumpguns, told me the bolt had to be cocked before it would go back together.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Fortunately, before I attempted taking my Model 14 apart any further than just separating the receiver, I had a copy of the two-volumes-in-one "NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly" book. It doesn't come until the very end of the Model 141 reassembly instructions, but it does mention re-cocking the firing pin being necessary before reassembly. That was almost 30 years ago, and my life has been made significantly much easier and less stressful with that book on my shelf!
I think the Model 12 .22 rimfire was a better design since it used an internal hammer.
The designs of both Pederson and Garand were nightmares to produce. That is why none of them are still in production. They had too many parts and the parts were too complex.
That said the first rifle I fired more than 60 years ago was a Remington Model 12. I don't own a model 12 but I do own a mint 141 in .35 Rem.
EDG
I know the 760 is different but it's a Gamemaster nonetheless. It got painted with your broad brush as well. Sounds like your 141 needed a doctor. I shot the snot out of mine and never cleaned or oiled it. We base our comments on our experience don't we?
Best, Thomas.
I saw this thread at just the right time!
I've been planning on doing a complete cleaning of my Grandad's old 14 and maybe this will help me avoid at least one headache.
As for functioning, my 14 is as slick as a whistle. Only caveat I can add is that the action likes to be operated "briskly" for best results.
"Ignorance is curable, but Stupid is forever!"
-Granddad
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |