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Thread: Parkerizing

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    SP5315's Avatar
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    Parkerizing

    I decided to take the plunge. I have a few firearms that I've wanted to refinish. I also recently picked up a couple of new 30 Cal carbine barrels that are in the white for my IBM & Winchester receivers (another project thats been on the back burner). So today I tried my hand at parkerizing.

    I picked up a homely looking Remington 870 Wingmaster a while back that had a bunch of rust pitting on the receiver from being left in a damp gun case. I'm kicking myself for not getting before pictures, it was in a sad state. Needless to say the blueing was toast. I've been wanting to try my hand at parkerizing for a while, so I picked up parkerizing set up. Cleaned it up in the sandblaster to get rid of the rust, pitting, and what was left of the blueing. I got finish to pretty much blend in, and managed not to do any harm to the roll markings or s/n. I was jut playing around with this setup today, so I only did the receiver and some small parts. Picture could be a little clearer. The little discoloration on the receiver is where the oil is thicker. I've got to say I think it turned out pretty darn good for a first attempt









  2. #2
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    Good job! The key a good park job is prep and it looks like you did it right.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    What brand chemicals did you use? I used to do a lot, most folks wanting spray on colored epoxy finishes these days. I used Amerlene, got it from Brownells, they don't carry it any more, was very simple and good finish.

  4. #4
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    I used a lot of the Amerlene form Brownells on parts that had to run in water based coolant at a place I worked at. I got excellent results every single time.

    I found that softer steel takes the park better than hardened steel does and also if you continue to heat the solution until the parts start "fizzing" you'll get better results.

    You absolutely must apply oil after treatment or the surface will rust. The Parkerizing generally turns the surface into a sponge with crevices to absorb the oil. LPS3 is the best stuff to use for sealer as it stays on the job better than most other things. The sealer that came with the Brownells kit was LPS2 and you could tell by the smell.

    Shotgun came out good.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Looks good. As Randy said oil it up good and you will be happy with it. Only time to completely remove the oil just prior to top coating with another finish.
    "Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."

    Je suis Charlie!


    "You won't know until you Actually try it"

    "The impossible just takes longer."

    "Don't let them beat you down with their inexperience."

    "You'll never accomplish what you don't try. " - Moldmaker

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I tryed a DIY recipie that I saw from the net with some modifications.
    Used some phosforic acid (drainage cleaner), steel wool, distilled water and some zink filings from a zink wheel weight.
    Satisfactory results. They use prosforic asid also in rust removing solutions.

    S

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 35 Whelen's Avatar
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    VERY nice job!!

    Parkerizing makes a really nice finish. I did three Ishapore's and was very pleased with the results. but my favorite was a H&R 922 I bought or my wife to carry for rattlesnakes while on her evening walks.

    Before and afters:













    I use a formula/method I found here:

    http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/vie....php?f=80&t=29

    35W
    The biggest waste of time is arguing with the fool and fanatic who doesn't care about truth or reality, but only the victory of his beliefs and illusions.
    There are people who, for all the evidence presented to them, do not have the ability to understand.

    NRA Life Member

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