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Thread: This Has Me Worried. Broken BLK Brass

  1. #1
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    This Has Me Worried. Broken BLK Brass

    Ok, I shot 70 rounds today, have about 300 through the gun. When I got home and started looking at my brass, I found this case, and I dont know what to think really.

    BCM BCG BCM 9" fluted barrel. pistol gas. CMT upper

    The load is 14.5gr H-110 not a compressed load. I am using the Accurate Molds 31-170BG mold. OAL is 1.900" and I'm using WSP primers. Once fired, converted from .223. This one was stamped AGUILLA 223 REM
    (THe Accurate mold doesnt have a point, so it doesnt feed well, Im replacing it with a 150gr NOE spire point gc mold when I get the money. )

    I would buy another one of Toms molds in a half second, if he would make a pointed nose. I am looking forward to getting a new .40-160b mold from him soon as Im done with the blackout project.



    Last edited by BulletFactory; 11-27-2016 at 05:45 PM.

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Looks like the pistol primers are holding up. Man head scratch about what's causing mouths to disapear

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Do you anneal the brass after necking up?
    WHEN IN DOUBT, USE MORE CLOUT!

  5. #5
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    No I dont anneal these. I dint think the slight shoulder warranted it, but now Im thinking I should.

    When I converted 30-06 to .308, I did anneal, because it was such a large physical change to the brass.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Southern Son View Post
    Do you anneal the brass after necking up?
    Was thinking the same thing. Just wondering if annealing would be better before or after. If done before, work hardening might bring it back to proper hardness.

    Oh.....and LOVE your supressor!

  7. #7
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    Anneal your brass, and put some pile (velcro) on the brass deflector. Your brass is being work hardened when you resize the case mouth. Most 300Blk brass gets dented by the brass deflector if not cushioned a bit.
    "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
    ~Pericles~

  8. #8
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    What suppressor? The dragon?

    The gun is called "Dragons Breath" And it looks amazing being fired at night.

    http://www.spitzlead.com/

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omega View Post
    Anneal your brass, and put some pile (velcro) on the brass deflector. Your brass is being work hardened when you resize the case mouth. Most 300Blk brass gets dented by the brass deflector if not cushioned a bit.

    Ok good idea.

    I have glued a piece of leather on the center section of the gas port door (Psalm 144:1) so it doesnt smack the lower.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BulletFactory View Post
    What suppressor? The dragon?

    The gun is called "Dragons Breath" And it looks amazing being fired at night.

    http://www.spitzlead.com/
    Yea. Bad a**!

  11. #11
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    This Has Me Worried. Broken BLK Brass

    Brass should be annealed after all other processes have been done. If a case fails you want it to happen during forming, not when you fire them.

    How much does that flash hider weigh? It doesn't look to be the lightest thing.

  12. #12
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    To be sure it would be best to anneal before and after forming the brass. The before will make the forming easy on the brass and the after will take any work hardening out while doing the forming.
    After firing five times the necks should be annealed again. On the belted cases I anneal after three reloads, this brass is always head spaced on the shoulder not the belt so the brass will last a long time without case head separation.

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    Im not exactly sure about the weight, but it isnt vet heavy.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Foolish Question... You didn't have any fired cases 'catch' in the gun... I mean the action closed on a partially ejected empty case. I've seen 308s with the mouth pushed back like that... but not gone like that..


    just a shot in the dark...

  15. #15
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    On bullet seating, the case mouth was bent inside the case mouth. On firing, it went else where. Flare/bell the case mouth more before seating. Thats my guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by castalott View Post
    Foolish Question... You didn't have any fired cases 'catch' in the gun... I mean the action closed on a partially ejected empty case. I've seen 308s with the mouth pushed back like that... but not gone like that..


    just a shot in the dark...
    Honestly, Im not sure. Since I was setting up the adjustable gas block today. I dont think it was a foolish question, it was actually a pretty insightful one.

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    see post-15.
    I have folded down a couple of cases like that in the loading process.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master yondering's Avatar
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    I'm betting on post #15 as well, caused by not flaring the cases before seating.

    Also, judging from the loaded round in the first pic - that's way too much crimp for lead bullets. Ease that off to just take the flare out of the case, but make sure your cases have enough neck tension to prevent set back.

    Feeding that flat nose bullet shouldn't be a problem with a little massaging of the feed ramps. Speak up if you need some info on that and are inclined to give it a shot.

  19. #19
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    Not to take this thread off topic but I thought to work harden you had to apply substantial heat to a metal. Also when necking the brass isn't it just a die to form the neck?


    Quote Originally Posted by buckshotshoey View Post
    Was thinking the same thing. Just wondering if annealing would be better before or after. If done before, work hardening might bring it back to proper hardness.

    Oh.....and LOVE your supressor!

  20. #20
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    Work hardening occurs when you bend the metal repeatedly. When you bend a paperclip till it breaks, you have work hardened that till it became brittle.

    Correct me if Im wrong guys, sometimes I miss.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check