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Thread: 30-30 H335 Leading Issue

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    For any heat treated boolit, I would normally size as soon as possible and wait at least 5 days before shooting them. I wait 3 weeks for air cooled boolits.

    Do you trim your cases all to the same over all length for roll crimping?

    Did you change the crimp setting between the .309" and .311" boolits?

    Have you made up any dummy rounds and then pulled out a boolit to see if the boolits being shaved or sized down by the case mouth.

    Try to fit a boolit sized .311" into the mouth of a case fired from YOUR rifle. If it fits, you're crimping too hard and bulging the case neck.

    Are you using a Lyman "M" die or something else like it to expand your case necks and bell out your case mouth?
    A deplorable that votes!

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
    rond's Avatar
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    Try the .311 boolits again, this time trim your cases a little shorter. I have 2 Marlins and there is no throat in the chamber to speak of, I have to trim shorter than normal to chamber. H335 has worked well for me.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProudOkie View Post
    I found several people using H335 for their 30-30 loads. Im shooting a marlin micro groove. I was shooting WW water dropped 170 grain .311 but they wouldnt chamber, switched to 309. I loaded up 23.4, 26, and 28 grain loads. 23.4 had some leading, the other 2 a lot of leading. THey were 1730 fps, 1967, and the third was about 2100.

    Any ideas on why they are leading?
    I don't think there is any mystery here. You sized the bullet too small. These 30-30 leverguns have very little freebore/throat. Often it is little more than a chamfer in the back end of the barrel in front of the chamber neck. This severely limits the types of bullets that can be chambered. Throw into the mix, the fact that Marlin MG barrels often are quite large in the grooves and you can see the problem.

    If your bullet had any full diameter sticking out of the case neck, it would not chamber until you could get it small enough to go directly into the rifling. The bullet was too small and rattled down the barrel. Throw in the fact your bullets are way too hard and won't expand any at all at normal pressure, and there is your problem.

    Marlin 336s in 30-30 will shoot cast bullets very well, but they are special needs children and attention must be given to their peculiarities. If you need a new mold the Ranch Dog 165 was made for such rifles and IIRC NOE has them in stock. NOE also makes 311407 Mod, that works well in these no throat rifles.

    Of course, you can always take a 30 caliber throating reamer and put a throat in front of the chamber like Marlin should have done in the first place.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  4. #24
    Boolit Bub ProudOkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yodogsandman View Post
    For any heat treated boolit, I would normally size as soon as possible and wait at least 5 days before shooting them. I wait 3 weeks for air cooled boolits. - prob my issue its only been 3 days. Do you think water cooled WW can be shot at 1950 FPS w out leading?

    Do you trim your cases all to the same over all length for roll crimping? yes

    Did you change the crimp setting between the .309" and .311" boolits? I didnt think it was possible to change the crimp setting?

    Have you made up any dummy rounds and then pulled out a boolit to see if the boolits being shaved or sized down by the case mouth. - yes, not being shaved down w 309 the 311 wouldnt go all the way in.

    Try to fit a boolit sized .311" into the mouth of a case fired from YOUR rifle. If it fits, you're crimping too hard and bulging the case neck.- ah ok, i sold my 311 mold will need to find another. good idea.

    Are you using a Lyman "M" die or something else like it to expand your case necks and bell out your case mouth?
    - using the lee expanding die for 30-30, but not belling the case mouth.


    seeaboveIansweredthere,thanks!
    If you're 'gonna do it, do it right - Aim small, miss small - Don't Tread on Me

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    You need a bigger sized boolit. It's "rattling down the barrel". It needs to be bigger than the groove size by at least .001". You're sizing it to less than the bore size to get the boolit to fit in that super short throat..

    Air cooled COWW should be good for 1950FPS if it fits right.

    You need to get that boolit into the case straight without any distortion. By adjusting the die up and down, the crimp will be softer or harder. Don't know about the Lee dies, though. A Lyman "M" die will expand the case neck to accept the larger cast boolits and bell the case mouth slightly for the boolit base to start without damage. A regular die is good for jacketed bullets at .308", the neck has to be made bigger for cast.

    With basically no throat in the Marlins, boolits will have to be set back to a shorter over all length to chamber. Cut the cases shorter If you want to crimp into the boolits crimp groove. Cut them to the length you need for your rifle.

    If you've sold your .311" sizing die, try them "as cast" right from the mold.

    Lee Liquid Alox has been used to at least up to 2600 FPS without leading.
    A deplorable that votes!

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub ProudOkie's Avatar
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    I sure appreciate the pointers. Do u think a .356 9mm pure lead is too big to slug it with?
    If you're 'gonna do it, do it right - Aim small, miss small - Don't Tread on Me

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    You can tap it down and round with a hammer so its close to .309".
    A deplorable that votes!

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProudOkie View Post
    I sure appreciate the pointers. Do u think a .356 9mm pure lead is too big to slug it with?
    That's gonna be tough to get started You can drill a hole in a block of wood to cast some more appropriate sized slugs in. Just split the block to get them out. When slugging, make sure the bore is clean, and pay attention to tight spots as you slide the slug through. Even the stampings on the barrel can commonly be felt. All of this stuff is fixable.

    Air cooled WWs shoot totally leading free for me to at least 2,100 fps. once all the little stuff is taken care of.

  9. #29
    Boolit Man Morgan61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProudOkie View Post
    I sure appreciate the pointers. Do u think a .356 9mm pure lead is too big to slug it with?
    Drill a 5/16" hole through a piece of scrap steel and pound your slug through that first and then slug your barrel with it.

  10. #30
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    just drill that 5/16 hole in a piece of scrap wood and pour the soft lead in the hole.
    that will give you a 312 slug to work with.

    I would sacrifice a case and trim it back till the 311 boolit will chamber.
    I'd also wait 3 weeks to load and shoot the water dropped boolits.
    I'd also rub some chapstick in a few lube grooves and give that a go.

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub ProudOkie's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I ll give this a go I appreciate it!
    If you're 'gonna do it, do it right - Aim small, miss small - Don't Tread on Me

  12. #32
    Boolit Master



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    I let my water quenched boolits rest at lest 3 weeks before I size and load them. But I am shooting a big boolit, .441 at 384 grains and that's a fair size slug and requires proper hardening time. My experience anyway, james

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check