How to Clean Lee Aluminum Bullet Molds like NEW!

[ShooterAZ]

I was once given a pile of molds by someone who gave up casting. Most were either iron or steel, a few were aluminum. All were not very well cared for, the iron ones were rusty. I tried boiling them in an old pot on the Coleman stove with some dish soap, it helped a little. What really worked was a small dash of Comet on an old toothbrush and just gently working on them until clean.

[Soundguy]

Irin/steel is a complete different story than aluminum when it comes to caustics and mild abrasives.

[Green Ghost]

When my molds get nasty with beeswax and smoke, I use comet and a toothbrush like ShooterAZ. They come out looking almost new. Works great for leementing too.

[Tom W.]

I don't know guys, if he followed the instructions and smoked the mold every time he used it and every time it didn't drop right there could be serious build up especially if he didn't cut the match heads off first and got all those "extra chemicals. You would think the bullets would be dropping smaller with all that extra coating. He had a problem and he found a solution. I would be curious to hear how his molds are performing in a few months.If all is well then the damage is not adversely affecting the mold and this could be a viable option if none of the cleaning methods we normally use work.

Whatcha mean " cut the match heads off"?

[Maven]

Tom, If you smoke or mold [cavities] with wooden matches, it's better to let the match head burn off before doing so in order to avoid depositing the "extra (and unwanted) chemicals" in said cavities.

[OS OK]

My molds, including Lee 'cheapos' are all clean to the bare metal and free of microscopic burrs and edges that cause boolits to stick. When they are at the proper temperature, most all of the boolits actually fall out when they are opened and gently given a slight shake, stubborn cavities for some reason only need a slight tap with the wooden dowel.
I wonder why other molds need all these remedies of casting releases, smoot and whatnot in the first place?

[Soundguy]

I've never used those release sprays. When I get my molds I check for burs and leftover machine chips, lightly candle, wipe down and go. I havnt recandled any of my molds yet. My most used mold is a .454 round ball, and it has made literally thousands of balls with just the initial smoking.

[longbow]

There's only 4 things I can think of that can cause boolits to stick:

- burrs around cavity edges
- off center cavity/poorly machined
- not enough draft on lube groove angles (think Keith style square lube grooves)
- tinning on iron or brass moulds ~ not an issue with aluminum moulds

Burrs can be easily checked for and normally if present easily removed.

Tinning is the result of running things too hot and possibly tin oxides building up on a clean brass mould but shouldn't be an issue on a blued iron mould.

Off center cavity/poor machining is a defect.

Personally I think square lube grooves without enough release angle is just plain poor design. A mould release may help here.

Other than that there should be no need to smoke or use mould release.

YMMV
Longbow

[waco]

There's only 4 things I can think of that can cause boolits to stick:

- burrs around cavity edges
- off center cavity/poorly machined
- not enough draft on lube groove angles (think Keith style square lube grooves)
- tinning on iron or brass moulds ~ not an issue with aluminum moulds

Burrs can be easily checked for and normally if present easily removed.

Tinning is the result of running things too hot and possibly tin oxides building up on a clean brass mould but shouldn't be an issue on a blued iron mould.

Off center cavity/poor machining is a defect.

Personally I think square lube grooves without enough release angle is just plain poor design. A mould release may help here.

Other than that there should be no need to smoke or use mould release.

YMMV
Longbow

^^^^^^^^ This........

[mac1911]

Also avoid simple green and purple power cleaner. Both will etch aluminum.
My dad proved to me many many times just how well warm dish soapy water can clean stuff. Then there was kerosene for everything else!

[Eddie Southgate]

On iron I use the rust remover they sell at Tractor Supply in the gallon can. It's about $20 a gallon and is completely non toxic . I set the mold in a container and pour enough to cover it and it soaks the rust loose . You can re use it a few times before it wears out . Never used it on flaky rust just surface rust , lucky and never got one with bad rust . You need to lightly oil it afterwards or it will flash rust . I do that and fill the mold with hot lead and store it loaded as usual .

Eddie