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Thread: Barrel nut on SR Mauser

  1. #1
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    Barrel nut on SR Mauser

    I'm going to turn down and re- thread a large ring Mauser barrel to small ring. What do you folks think about doing it the Savage barrel nut method? I'm planning to convert a 93 action to 30-30 using a 98 7.62x39 barrel. I realize I have to cut off the rear for the chambering to be correct.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The barrel nut is in use on the kits that Rhineland Arms sells for SR Mausers. You may find it very difficult to get the 30-30 to feed in a sr Mauser. The feed guides are machined into the base of the receiver and would have to be modified. Also a rimmed cartridge in a Mauser takes a slanted magazine. I rebarreled a 93 to 7.62X39 and even with the Numrich kit it did not want to feed well at all. I did shoot it and it was good with American made factory and my reloads, but the steel case cartridges had a very wide velocity range. I was using a Chrony to measure velocity and the last 7.62X39 I fired in it locked up the bolt. Velocity was about 2,600 fps, almost 300 fps faster than the other 4 cartridges fired. I used a hammer at home to open the bolt and the case showed extreme pressure signs. I rebarreled it to 7X57 and all is well now.

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    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    I've done it for other actions but it ends up being more work than just cutting a traditional stub and chambering it. Only reason I did it was there wasn't enough diameter for a torque shoulder on the barrel blank. Worked fine though.

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    Thanks for the replies. Leadman- this barrel is from a Numrich kit. I had it on a 98 and you are right it didn't feed well. No pressure problems but the feeding issue was a deal breaker. I' ve cycled 30-30s thru the mag and it works- but I'll bet I'll only get by loading 2 or 3 in the mag-no biggy. Best, Thomas.

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    Boolit Master
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    I've re-barreled my Lee Enfield and my Swiss K31 using the Savage barrel nut method and both turned out surprisingly well for me. Both rifles feed and eject as they should.

    The reason I decided to use the Barrel Nut method was because at the time I did the re-barreling jobs I had no hands on experience in re-barreling anything. The Savage Barrel Nut method made it easy for me to adjust the head-spacing involved in the re-barreling of the cartridges I was working with. On the Enfield I went from the rimmed factory 303 case to a rimmed 30-303; basically the same cartridge utilizing a 308 bore barrel. On the K31 I went from the factory 7.5x55 Swiss to the 6.5x55 Swede.

    In both cases, the Savage barrel nut method helped simplify things for this novice do-it-yourselfer.

    HollowPoint

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    Thank you all. I'll decide what route to take once I get started. The 30-30 is one of my favorite cartridges of all. Just the right amount of power for deer and hogs. I love my 1954 Winchester but a light bolt action will be fun and hopefully more accurate. Best, Thomas.

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    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you have a lathe you could turn down the 30-30 case rims to to fit the bolt face and it might help with feeding also. If the standard 30-30 doesn't feed well rechamber it for the 30-30 Ackley Improved. This straightens out the long shoulder and gives the case a 40 degree shoulder close to the neck end. I have a Contender in the 30-30AI if you need to try a case in your rifle.

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    Thanks leadman. I'll be able to tell more when the 7mm barrel is off. I know I'll have to relieve the bolt face nub opposite of the extractor a bit as well as polish a bit off the extractor claw for rim clearance. I prefer to use normal 30-30 chamber but I see your point with the Ackley suggestion. Best, Thomas.

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    After 90 years of marriage, I force divorced the action & barrel tonight. It took my home made action wrench with a copper spacer for the SR action, a relief cut at the bbl shoulder, 14"pipe wrench & 1-1/2" x 60" cheater. Made a definite POP when it broke free. All is well! Oh yes it soaked in PB blast for a week before. It reminded me of a P14 and a 38 Arisaka that took similar measures. 98 Mausers are much easier IMO. Best, Thomas.

  10. #10
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    Both barrels and the receiver are at the machine shop. I did not detect any bolt setback on the locking abutments in the receiver. I will lap the lugs to 100% contact while it's handy.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You may want to check the last 1" of the bore of the barrel for and enlarged bore area. I had bought my 7.62X39 barrel from Numrich also. When I slugged it prior to installing it I found a loose spot just before the muzzle. I sent it back to Numrich and they sent me another barrel, had the same issue. I spoke with a gunsmith/friend that worked for Broughton barrels. He lapped and rifled them and said this is from the button moving as the guide leaves the barrel. He said it is normal to have to cut and inch off the ends because of this.
    The bolt locking lugs should be lapped before chambering the barrel as it can affect the headspace.

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    The plan is to get it all back then lap the action before I rent the chamber reamer. Thanks leadman!

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    I modified the bolt face today and the 30-30 rim fits securely under the claw now. I think/hope it's going to work. I will check the bore by slugging. I think I did before when I did the 98/7.62x39- but I don't recall. Stay tuned.

  14. #14
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    My barrel is back and threaded perfectly. I'm going to lap the action lugs using home made tooling then after Christmas rent the 30-30 chamber reamer. I also need to add a stop on the rear top of the follower to keep the rim of the cartridge from dropping dwn behind the follower. Maybe a weld but probably D&T a screw will be simpler. The barrel has enough shoulder so I won't use a barrel nut. Best, Thomas.
    Last edited by Texas by God; 11-19-2016 at 02:22 PM.

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    The lugs lapped in nicely. It went from about 50% to 90% where I stopped. Baby steps.

  16. #16
    A.K.A. Bullshop Jr. SierraHunter's Avatar
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    I have a theory that the Savage barrel nut helps to line the barrel up truer to the reciever helping with accuracy. I've never had a gun with a barrel nut that did not shoot good.

    I have plans to build a left handed 788 in 6.5 creedmoor with a barrel nut in the somewhat near future.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SierraHunter View Post
    I have a theory that the Savage barrel nut helps to line the barrel up truer to the reciever helping with accuracy. I've never had a gun with a barrel nut that did not shoot good.

    I have plans to build a left handed 788 in 6.5 creedmoor with a barrel nut in the somewhat near future.
    That will be a neat rifle. Is the donor a 6mm or.308?

  18. #18
    A.K.A. Bullshop Jr. SierraHunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    That will be a neat rifle. Is the donor a 6mm or.308?
    I don't actually have a donor rifle yet so which ever I find cheaper.

  19. #19
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    I saw a lefty 788 at a gun show with an ugly home made "benchrest" stock for $150. I still don't know why I didn't buy it. It had a 6mm Shilen heavy barrel and a Canjar set trigger. It was Acraglassed in the stock. I think I was put off by the amount of work I would have to do to make it useful to me. I'm severely right handed but I think left hand guns are cool. Best, Thomas.

  20. #20
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    I have sent off rental funds for the reamer. I'm taking cell phone photos along the way-I'll post them if possible when I can. A "false spring" project- 80degrees here lately! Best, Thomas.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check