Or non-detergent 30 weight motor oil. That's what Crosman Pellgunoil is.
I have a Blue Streak that would not hold air. You could pump it 30 times as fast as possible, and listen to air escaping as fast as it was going in. If you were quick, you could get it to shoot but the pellet would literally bounce off cardboard. So over the course of a few days I kept adding ND 30 oil, pumping and shooting, oiling, pumping and standing it in a corner, over and over. That fixed it completely. Now it will penetrate a raccoon's skull, and it holds air indefinitely.
Last edited by Tracy; 11-30-2016 at 02:06 PM.
This is my '81 Blue Streak with refinished stock and 4X Simmons pistol scope set up scout style.
I don't know if it would work with these Benjamin and Sheridan type air guns , the seal materials may be different, but I've been using the Silicone oil I got for my airsoft guns to lube my pump up daisy 880 and I've noticed a significant increase in velocity.
I suspect its more due to the oil migrating into the bore and reducing friction and drag.
Petroleum based oils will air dry and become slightly gummy after awhile , which will result in drag on the pellet. Oils that are formulated to act as a preservative can also leave a thin coating of a varnish like residue over the years.
While air guns aren't prone to the same sort of fouling that powder guns are it takes very little residue in the bore to slow down a pellet.
I use a one piece cleaning rod made for .177 bores, I used to use a piece of radio aerial for the purpose.
Removing all lead and other residues then lubing with silicone can make quite a difference.
Thanks. I applied a thinned coat of an oil based jarrah stain to add a reddish brown tinge as the base timber was lighter than I prefer.
Then a few coats of 50/50 boiled linseed oil-mineral turpentine mixture.
I've used leather stain thinned with lots of rubbing alcohol to get a similar effect on blonde wood that didn't respond to applications of wood stains.
The thinned leather stain soaks into the most porous parts and those areas remain damp when the rest of the surface is dried. On repeated applications the damp areas don't soak in as much stain so by the time the surface has taken on the hue you want the whole thing is pretty much equally stained without darker spots.
Between applications I de fur the wood with steel wool. On porous wood care should be taken to be sure that loose grain ends don't shred the steel wool leaving tiny metal flecks that could later show in the finish.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |