How Do I Disassemble My 1874?

[Silver Jack Hammer]

My Shiloh Sharpes is 3 years old. The hammer will not fall no matter what I do. I phoned Shiloh Sharpes, Kirk told me to take the trigger bar off. I don't really feel comfortable doing that. My local gunsmith is busy with hunting season, and work from the local military base. I'm thinking I'll just wait until after elk season and send it in.

[John Boy]

http://www.uberti.com/sites/default/...harps_1874.pdf

[Silver Jack Hammer]

When I cock the hammer the spring tension is normal. When I pull the set trigger I get a click. When I pull the front trigger I get a soft click but the hammer does not fall. I'll pull back on the hammer again and don't get a click. I pull the set trigger again and get a click. I apply pressure on the back of the set trigger and pull the front trigger at the same time and the hammer falls.

[Bent Ramrod]

I remove the forend and clamp the barrel in a padded vise. I half-cock the rifle and remove the breechblock/lever assembly. I loosen the screws on the left side of the rifle, slightly and evenly, and very gently tap on them with a nylon drift and a light hammer. As the plate on the other side begins to emerge from the wood, I loosen the screws further, again the same turns or partial turns for each, and keep tapping, evenly on both. Eventually the screws are loose enough so the plate is out of the wood nearly its whole thickness, and the screws can be removed (keep hold of the hammer so the thing doesn't fall out) and the plate is free.

You have to remove the stock to get the trigger plate out. Take the big screw out of the top tang and the smaller screw at the front of the plate out and slide the stock and trigger plate rearwards off the trigger plate dovetail. Then remove the wood screw at the end of the trigger plate and gently pull the plate out of the wood. On the pistol grip model, I remove the stock first, tang screw and wood screw, and then take out the front trigger plate screw and slide the plate backwards and out.

If it was a Pedersoli, you could just remove the plate screws and pluck, rock and twist the plate out of the wood, and similarly remove tang, plate, and wood screws and have the thing come apart in your hands, but the Shiloh inletting is air-tight and I'm always afraid of chipping the wood as the plate comes out. When you press it back in, use the same caution, make sure the plate is started square and don't hammer anything; just thumbs and fingers, good alignment and even pressure.

You ought to be able to see what is wrong in the triggers or sear arrangement yourself. Maybe a wood chip, or frozen lubricant, or some other blockage. Unless you have snapped the triggers unduly with the hammer at half-cock and broken the blade off the front or rear trigger or something.

I'm convinced the old timers liked the "hammer model" Sharps not because it had a hammer, but because disassembly for cleaning and maintenance was so straightforward. With the Borchardt model, you need a machine shop to get it apart and back together.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Bent Ramrod, When you mentioned snapping at half cock you reminded me what I was doing right before my Sharpes broke. I was snapping the hammer from half cock. I was trying to figure out why my Sharpes fired when my thumb slipped off the hammer a year ago. I put a round in the dirt at the 40 yrd line. but my finger was no where near the trigger. On the day my Sharpes broke I had fired 40 rounds, no problem, then I put a snap cap in and was practicing a sight picture dry firing. Then with a snap cap in I let the hammer slip off my thumb at half cock trying to reproduce the accidental discharge which had occurred last year. I let the hammer slip off my thumb a couple of times but couldn't see where the hammer hit the firing pin block once. I wonder if I damaged the top of the trigger internally.

[Dan Cash]

<I>I wonder if I damaged the top of the trigger internally.</I>

I would reckon so.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

The trail before me is clear. Ship the rifle back to Big Timber after elk season is over.
Thanks so much guys!

[Lead pot]

I did a quick Google for the 74 and Larry came up with a 77. But it will give you a idea how to go about pulling the lock plate and what you might see inside. The only thing I don't like to see is how he pulled the lock from the wood. Bent Ramrod gave a good explanation how to loosen the lock from the wood reducing the possibility chipping the wood. Looses the screws slightly like BR said and the lock will slide out straight with out binding on the side chipping the wood. Once the lock is out you will see the triggers and if they are damaged then remove the trigger bar if that is where the problem is.....Kurt
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...55&FORM=VDFSRV

Here is a 74 lock

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...=0&FORM=VDFSRV

[BrentD]

SJH, if you tell us where you are at, you might find that there is someone near by that could help.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

The People's Socialist Utopia of Seattle

[BrentD]

Not familiar with the place.

[Lumpy grits]

On a Shiloh it only takes 2 screws to remove the lock plate. Cock the hammer first, and remove the screws.
It's not brain surgery--
LG

[varsity07840]

Two things about the 1874. Dropping the block without the lock at half cock will cause it to drag on the firing pin and eventually break it. Also dry firing with the lock at half cock can break the set triggers. Both according to Mike Venturino.

[Don McDowell]

The People's Socialist Utopia of Seattle

The Evergreen muzzleloaders shoot a monthly cartridge rifle match. There would be folks there that can assist you with the disassembly of your rifle.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Don, thanks for the info. They might be able to help me and I look forward to meeting these guys.

[Don McDowell]

You're welcome. I think they are shooting on the 19th?

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Last Sunday I took my Sharpes up to the local shooting match, Steve Morris took the side plates off and set the trigger screw. When I got it home the triggers were still not dropping the hammer. I did what Steve told me to do and took the trigger strap off. I went over everything and adjusted the set trigger. All seemed right. Today the Sharpes spit out 50 slugs on time and on target. Looks like I'm back in business. Thanks Don.

[Don McDowell]

You are quite welcome sir. Always glad to help if I can.
Glad you have your rifle running as it should be.

[Remmy4477]

Buy a Rolling Block! A lot simpler!

[BrentD]

I keep thinking a case full of Unique should about do it...


Just kidding...