Where did I go wrong?

[halvey]

Let me preface by saying I've reloaded LOTS of rounds of .380, 9mm, 45 ACP and .223 and .308

I've used the following presses:
progressives: Dillon Square Deal, 550 and 650
single stages: Hornandy lock N load, RCBS (the junior one), and the cheap flimsy Lee reloader (loaded lots of .380 and 9mm on this press)

I've been away from reloading for a few years, but reloading .410 brass cases piqued my interest. So, I got some .444 Marlin brass and a Lee Challenger to give it a go.

I used Lee steel .444 dies, used a good amount of lube, ran the brass up into the die about 2/3 way and it STUCK. Couldn't get it out. I tried and tried, used all the tricks and this isn't the first time this has happened. But, it is the first time I couldn't get the brass out.

So, my question
1) is the Lee Challenger not a good setup for larger calibers like the .444? Perhaps I needed more torque like a larger cast press would give me? I didn't think the footprint of the Challenger was all that large like the presses I've used in the past.

2) or should I have used a carbide sizer? I think Hornandy makes a carbide .444 FL die

[r1kk1]

My only complaint about the Challenger was the linkage. Lee upgraded to steel linkage on the breechlock versions. I have done various Case forming on that same press making 411 JDJ, 375 JDJ and 309 JDJ using 444 Brass. What lube are you using? I would take the dies apart, clean and relive them. There are no carbide dies I know of for the 444.

Take care

r1kk1

[Guesser]

I've loaded many, many hundred 444 Marlin and several hundred 410 using 444 cases. Never had that problem with Lee press or Lee dies. I do roll crimp the over shot card using a 44 magnum seating die.

[Mk42gunner]

The brand of press you use has very little to do with a stuck case. Type and quantity of case lube and the interior finish of the die have a lot more to do with it.

Robert

[Rory McCanuck]

I had no problems sizing 444 on a Lee Breechlock Challenger.
Actually, a pretty nice press for what it is.

I think CH4D will make a carbide die for it, but I don't think anyone else does.
They aren't needed, just use a good lube.
Imperial sizing wax is a wonderful thing.

[Shawlerbrook]

Rory hit the nail of the head, you can't beat Imperial Sizing Wax!

[rototerrier]

I've found a new die will try to stick on the first case. I always over lube the first couple cases until I can get a feel for how the die reacts.

[tward]

I haven't tried the 444 but I have used Magtech 410 cases, I found that a 45 acp die with the top cut off is a perfect size. You end up with a carbide ring in a short piece of 7/8x14 die, with the top cut off there are no limits on case length. Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress . Tim

[country gent]

Lube is important when sizing new brass as it may not be as close to finished size or as round as is needed. Another is the finish of the dies surfaces a die on the smaller side and or slightly rough will take alot more force and effort to size cases coupled with new brass that may be slightly large. I use alot of imperial sizing die wax also Its very good stuff. Anahydrous lanolin also works good. One thing I alwys do with a new die set is to disassemble the dies and clean them good with a appropriate bore brush and solvent, this removes any dirt or grit and left over preservatives manufacturering lubes. I then patch dry and relube them to start out with a light coat of imperial sizing die wax on a patch. The snug fitting patches will give an idea of the surface finish of the die. WIth lee dies you should be anle to pull the decap rod and collet and reach in with a punch and drive the case out. Ideally putting the die in from the under side upside down and use the press ram to drive the punch may do it. Then once the case is out measure the dies inside dia and compare it to the cases dia. ALso look into the die with a good light source and check the finish. The dimension diffrences are the most important though.

[Harter66]

There is a stuck case kit also .

Over lubing a straight case isn't a problem . I'm partial to viscous films for lube because they will migrate in a die . They also fill up places where stuff can hang up .
Not a perfect solution but maybe a 460 carbide die would work .

[jmorris]

If your using Lee dies you don't need a stuck case remover, just a wrench or two and a punch and or brass hammer.

[220]

I reload brass magtec and some 9.3x74r I have fire formed into 410.
Never had the need to full length size them, after 5 or 6 reloads they do get slightly tight to chamber but it is only the case neck. Running them 1/4-1/2" into a 308 die brings them back to size.

[EDG]

Sounds like the first case in a new die syndrome.
A new die needs to be cleaned with solvent to get out any preservative grease or oil.
The first case or two needs to be fed in a little at a time then pulled out and relubed. Each pass can go into the die a little deeper.
It may take as many as 2 to 4 relubes to get the case in without sticking.

This can occur with almost any new die set in any caliber.
I do have one 7X57 Herter's FL die that has a coarse factory finish inside and the die is about .004 smaller in diameter than a RCBS or Forster die. It is a major hassle to size any case in that die without pulling the rim off.

[1hole]

Cases get stuck in sizer dies for ONE reason; poor case lubrication.

I've made a lot of .22-250 cases from .30-06 and you can't get much more demanding than that no matter what brand of dies are used -- a good case lube properly applied matters.

[r1kk1]

Cases get stuck in sizer dies for ONE reason; poor case lubrication.

I've made a lot of .22-250 cases from .30-06 and you can't get much more demanding than that no matter what brand of dies are used -- a good case lube properly applied matters.

I believe 1hole has a sticky thread on case lubes. Worth reading if you have not. I necked 405 Winchester brass to 25 caliber but the worst for me was swaging belts on 30-06 cases necked down. Some wildcats deserved to die.

take care

r1kk1