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Thread: .22 rimfire alternative

  1. #201
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    I like bolus. Yup, good word. "Ill take one bolus of 16" Naval Gun Powder Please. Don't bother wrapping it I'll eat it here"
    I think we have a winner here folks. In my mind from this time on a "granule" of 16" Naval gun powder will be known as a "Bolus" of propellant.
    Thank you Texas by God.
    You are welcome. A bolus will teach you where the molars of a bovine are.

  2. #202
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    Thank you very very much. What a great advantage it is to get advise from an expert. I have to restate this to make sure I understand what you are saying: Basically 3/4-20 would meet the strength needs of this project. And the conventional reasoning in tapping and threading says that the same length of threads as the diameter is as strong as it gets. 3/4 the diameter may be strong enough. And turning a groove at the end of the threaded area to the root depth of the thread will give me a square end to tighten up to. In my mind I see the threaded area having the threads matching the die being not quite as deep at the end of the threading as the beginning. and I see this as a good thing causing a very tight fit on the last half turn or so of the tightening. I can also increase the width of the cut root diameter groove to allow me to cinch the receiver to top dead center to get the sight and tap holes on the barrel to be in the right spot. I am going to go with the full diameter of the barrel as the length of the threads. I already priced out the 3/4-20 tap and die on eBay. I can get them both for a total of $18. Please correct any of this that I may have misunderstood. This is exciting. You just took 90% of the uncertainty of this project out for me.
    Traffer,
    your recapitulation reads like you understand correctly.
    Best Regards,
    Chev. william

  3. #203
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavyVet1959 View Post
    When I used the gradually tapered nail in the (non-rotating) drill press to open up the .25 caliber power load, it just opened it a small amount, so it took a few taps to get it all the power into the powder measure tray. I was thinking that if I had wanted to add powder to the power loads for even more power, I would need to make a very small powder funnel and the opened up crimp could be resealed with a small drop of hot melt glue from a glue gun.

    I measured one of the .25 caliber power loads and the body of it was 0.242". I searched through my miscellaneous drill bits and came across one that measured 0.246". I think that means it's a size #D. I have no idea where I came across a drill bit in that size. I don't remember ever having a set of drill bits that were *that* extensive in their sizes. The #C drill bit is 0.242", so it would probably be better and then if I needed a bit more space, a bit of 600 grit paper on the chamber walls of whatever I was building.
    NavyVet1959,
    In my experience twist drills seem to make holes slightly larger than their Measured drill body diameter.
    Best Regards,
    Chev. William

  4. #204
    Boolit Master Traffer's Avatar
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    Letter drills are available at a good hardware store for not much money. You should be able to get a "C" or "D" size for a couple of bucks each. What I would do is cut the hole smaller (if you are making a new hole) and enlarging it with a hand reamer. I plan to open the bore of a 22rf with reamers to the correct size. I have purchased many reamers in the size range of .195" to .226" and some metric starting at 5mm, I think i have 5.2mm. 5.6mm, and 5.7mm along with the decimal sizes. I think the most I have paid for a reamer is about $5.50 delivered. That is bought on eBay usually from China. It is probably easier to get metric sizes at cheap money because being made in China that is the standard there. I am including a really handy chart that I use all the time for working on making dies for the .22rf that I use. This chart is extremely handy. I must use this at a few times every day.

    https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf...DrillChart.pdf


    QUOTE=NavyVet1959;3997039]When I used the gradually tapered nail in the (non-rotating) drill press to open up the .25 caliber power load, it just opened it a small amount, so it took a few taps to get it all the power into the powder measure tray. I was thinking that if I had wanted to add powder to the power loads for even more power, I would need to make a very small powder funnel and the opened up crimp could be resealed with a small drop of hot melt glue from a glue gun.

    I measured one of the .25 caliber power loads and the body of it was 0.242". I searched through my miscellaneous drill bits and came across one that measured 0.246". I think that means it's a size #D. I have no idea where I came across a drill bit in that size. I don't remember ever having a set of drill bits that were *that* extensive in their sizes. The #C drill bit is 0.242", so it would probably be better and then if I needed a bit more space, a bit of 600 grit paper on the chamber walls of whatever I was building.[/QUOTE]
    Jedediah Morse
    "To the kindly influence of Christianity we owe that degree of civil freedom, and political and social happiness which mankind now enjoys. . . . Whenever the pillars of Christianity shall be overthrown, our present republican forms of government, and all blessings which flow from them, must fall with them.".







  5. #205
    Boolit Master Traffer's Avatar
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    I opened up one of these so far. I drilled a 3/32 hole in the tip to start and inserted a pic to open it up. That worked pretty well. I have figured a way to attach a bullet to these things, I think. I am going to drill a hole in the tip as big as I can and still maintain the integral strength of the crimped area. Then I am going to fashion a die to swage bullets that have a shaft or tail on them that is slightly larger than the hole and stuff them in. They should hold good enough to be a one piece round. I love doing stuff like this. lol.
    Jedediah Morse
    "To the kindly influence of Christianity we owe that degree of civil freedom, and political and social happiness which mankind now enjoys. . . . Whenever the pillars of Christianity shall be overthrown, our present republican forms of government, and all blessings which flow from them, must fall with them.".







  6. #206
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    I opened up one of these so far. I drilled a 3/32 hole in the tip to start and inserted a pic to open it up. That worked pretty well. I have figured a way to attach a bullet to these things, I think. I am going to drill a hole in the tip as big as I can and still maintain the integral strength of the crimped area. Then I am going to fashion a die to swage bullets that have a shaft or tail on them that is slightly larger than the hole and stuff them in. They should hold good enough to be a one piece round. I love doing stuff like this. lol.
    I think you could open them up to 3/32" easy enough without drilling and thereby adding brass chips to your powder. Just taper a 1/8" diameter nail very gradually and push it down into the center of the crimped area with a drill press. You might need to make two of them and on one of them have the starting diameter a little greater. Of course, set the stop on the drill press so that you don't end up hitting bottom on the brass with the point of the tool.

    If we're talking single shot guns, I don't really see the advantage of reloading .22LR with the bullets attached to the power loads vs just loading them separately when you are shooting them. If you factor in the time it takes to create the rounds at home, then just having the separate and putting them together right as you are shooting them probably takes less time.
    Last edited by NavyVet1959; Today at 01:51 AM.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check