Do you decap as a separate operation?

[375supermag]

Hi...

I generally clean brass first, either wet or dry depending on how I feel at the moment.
I re-size and de-prime on my Rockchucker in one step and then clean primer pockets on an electric RCBS case prep center. I just enjoy doing it that way...I can clean thousands of primer pockets pretty much mindlessly.
I re-prime on an RCBS APS bench-mounted priming tool and then bell case mouths on the RockChucker as a separate step.
When I need more ammunition, I will set up the powder measures and charge cases and seat bullets generally in batches of 500 for generic plinking/target rounds and 50-100 for hunting/testing rounds.

Once I get past this latest little cancer thing I am dealing with and am able to retire, I may need to change some of my processes to reload rifle ammunition more quickly and efficiently as I will have more time to spend at the gun club.
No sense sitting at the reloading bench, when I could be shooting, right?

[marquitawatts]

I like to decap while watching movie. Also can clean primer pocket. Getting work done while setting still


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[LabGuy]

I decap then wet tumble.

[mozeppa]

for my handguns i size and decap in the same operation.

then i wet tumble in a concrete mixer with dawn & citric acid....using pins that won't get stuck in the flash holes.
rinse and let dry.

next operation, i use a lyman "m" die to expand & bell the case mouths.

next, i prime them all and put them in jars....now they are ready to load anytime i wish....no matter if
want to load a few by hand, on a single stage ...or...if i want on the dillon 650 progressive press ...or a lyman turret.

[Walter Laich]

since I wet tumble all my brass I want the pocket open so it gets clean too

[RogerDat]

That wet tumble may get some investigating next spring, nice looking brass from what I have seen and no primer dust to breathe in lead from. Cleaning the primer pocket is a plus.

I find with military brass that I pre-process the primer pocket tends to get vibrating media caught in it. Stopped doing brass open primer pocket after a couple of times. Just give the pocket a twist or two with the primer pocket tool after sizing and depriming polished brass and call it good. AFTER the polishing is done because sticking a paper clip in every other primer hole to clear it is a PITA.

[XDROB]

I reload mostly straight wall pistol. Tumble with primer in, decap and size
Sonic clean after. Everything cleaner, including dies.

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[Bullwolf]

I use a Lee universal de-prime die and de-cap my brass now before washing. Once brass is de-primed, I wash it in citric acid, and either Dawn dish soap, or automotive wash & wax.

By doing this I end up with super clean cases that don't leave any black grit on the press, my fingers, or my sizing dies. The benefits of de-capping as a separate operation become even more noticeable if you are using outdoor range pick up brass.

My tumbler media also seems to stay clean for longer, but yes it is a little more work. Another pleasant bonus is you also end up with very clean primer pockets.

If it sounds like a big hassle or extra step to you, remember that it's not a requirement. However, if you really enjoy loading new unfired brass, or brass that looks like it hasn't been fired... This might be something for you to try.

I think of it this way, I can either wash my brass first... Or I can clean the press, dies, tumbling media, and my hands more often.

I can see everything much easier when loading clean brass. It helps me visually identify problems like case splits & defects, powder levels, (or no powder) off center flash holes, and the like. For me it's definitely worth the extra step.



I've also loaded stupidly large amounts of regular old tumbled brass. It all shot just fine as well.

I personally enjoy the added cleanliness that de-capping separately and washing brings to the reloading area and finished product.

If it matters any, I load for more quality than quantity these days. I enjoy the little details and perfection more than cranking out as much loaded ammunition as I can, as fast as I can with progressive or automated loading equipment.



- Bullwolf

[EDG]

I always decap first even if using a progressive.

There are several reasons for it.

1. I will shoot brass from any source as long as it is sound quality brass. That does not mean it is always clean and free of mud, dirt, insects and spider webs.
I can clean and inspect the brass. Military brass that needs the crimp removed can be processed. Brass that got wet leaving water in the primer pocket will be cleaned and dried.

2. Tumbling with stainless pins will clean the primer pockets or if the quantity is small I can clean the primer pockets by hand.

3. I use a Lee hand punch and base so I never break a decapping pin, never bend a decapping rod and I never get the primer ash in my press or any where around the loading bench.

4. Even using a progressive I will decap by hand and size the brass as a separate step. Then the progressive is used to charge, seat and crimp only.

[noylj]

This is one of those questions that is entirely up to the reloader.
I usually shoot several different cartridges at the range, and pick up any cases for cartridges I have that I find on the ground.
Thus, when I get home, it just makes sense to me to inspect, deprime, and sort all the cases I bring home. All cases must be inspected, and I can inspect while sorting. I'm there at the press so why not decap also?
I also sometimes like to play with ultrasonic or SS pin cleaning, and decapping is "required."
So, you do what works for you.

[Sasquatch-1]

If you are using the media that you buy from sporting goods store stop using it and try some Lizard Litter that can be picked up at most pet stores. (Just a suggestion, not a demand.) If you are not familiar with it, each granular is about a third the size of the reloading product and is still walnut shell. Shake vigorously in a small bucket with a lid and you should not have any media stuck in the pocket. Add a tablespoon of brass cleaner to the media and the brass will stay bright and shiny for months.

I find with military brass that I pre-process the primer pocket tends to get vibrating media caught in it.

[toallmy]

Pet smarts lizard bedding makes stopped up flash holes a thing of the past , love it .

[6bg6ga]

I decap rifle brass only. I changed the tumbling media to lizard litter which doesn't clog the flash hole unlike other tumbling media. The only Lee dies I own are a universal decapping tool. My steps are as follows....decap rifle brass, tumble brass to clean, lube and FL resize, tumble again and run thru the Giraud tool which trims the brass to length and then to the Hornady three way tool which reams the primer pocket if needed and if making 300 blkout brass the inside and outside reamer. Once all this is done I prime and load on a Lyman T-mag for the rifle stuff and small runs of 45LC, 9mm, and 357/38 other calibers are done on the 650 Dillon.

[gnoahhh]

Another reason to de-cap by hand is in the domain of we breech seaters, who essentially shoot all day at the range using one cartridge case. I sometimes also go the range with but a handful of brass, a can of powder and a dipper, and bullets sized to snugly thumb seat in the case neck. De- and re- capping being the only mechanical aspects of that shooting technique.

Lots of valid reasons for separate de-capping exist. I don't grok the reason for the OP's poll, unless it was his way of resolving something for himself.

"I don't often clean brass, but when I do I use lizard litter in my tumbler." Says The Most Interesting Man in the World.

[dverna]

Gnoahhh,
Fair question

My reasons are simple. First I have never deprimed first when using a progressive (loading pistol) but am willing to change if there is a good reason to change. So far, I see no advantages worth the extra effort.

One never knows what he doesn't know. Now, I know lizard bedding is better than the media I have been using for rifle cases that I tumble after depriming.

[Don Fischer]

I got a question for the liquid cleaner guy's. What difference does it make if the inside of the case and primer pocket is squeaky clean? I've got a rather old midway vibrator and use cob in it. The cob I'm using has been in there several years and still makes my case's look great. Someone had mentioned using a small bladed screw driver to clean primer pocket's. In the service we called it a 7 level. Biggest tool a 7 level radar maint guy ever used! I had one for years and keep thinking I need to get another but haven't done it yet. Nice thing about a 7 level is it has a clip on it and just clips into the inside of a shirt pocket! I do like clean case's but at what point do you actually get cleaner than clean and what difference does that make. BTW, I seldom let a rifle case hit the ground. Once in a great while I get sloppy and drop one and it make's me cringe! Target or hunting makes no difference to me, case's should not hit the ground!

[Don Fischer]

I've got one pregressive press, don't care for it. I have a lot of trouble with it either missing a primer or seating one sideways. Though I had the answer. I'd simply prime before running the case through the press. Then it occurred to me that that wouldn't work because the first station resizes and de-primes. Tried to figure out how to get the depriming pin out but no luck! My though was then to prime them first which meant sizing first. But then the case is started into the system and if you let the handle go down past half way, the turret moves the case enough you can't just take the dase out and prime before it get's to the next station! If it does get to the next station, it should have a primer in it already for when the case is raised to drop powder, the primer needs to be already there. My problem is I believe I've used a single stage press close to 50 yrs now and am used to the idea that at any point I can fix an error or mistake. Ever on my shotgun press's I can stop and do a do over at any time! recently got a set of dies for that ammo that go in my Rock Chucker!

[Gillie Dog]

I got a question for the liquid cleaner guy's. What difference does it make if the inside of the case and primer pocket is squeaky clean?

None according to most. For me, I just like to clean and inspect. I have the time and like doing it.

GD

[Scorpion8]

I am interested in understanding the benefits of decapping before a case is sized.

I de-cap before sizing because I tumble clean before sizing, and having the primer pockets de-capped makes the primer pockets and cases get relatively clean(er) before I resize. Never had truly filthy cases but don't like to run dirty cases into the sizing die. So if I'm going to tumble clean them, then I might as well de-cap prior to that step.

[OS OK]

I've got one pregressive press, don't care for it. I have a lot of trouble with it either missing a primer or seating one sideways. Though I had the answer. I'd simply prime before running the case through the press. Then it occurred to me that that wouldn't work because the first station resizes and de-primes. Tried to figure out how to get the depriming pin out but no luck! My though was then to prime them first which meant sizing first. But then the case is started into the system and if you let the handle go down past half way, the turret moves the case enough you can't just take the dase out and prime before it get's to the next station! If it does get to the next station, it should have a primer in it already for when the case is raised to drop powder, the primer needs to be already there. My problem is I believe I've used a single stage press close to 50 yrs now and am used to the idea that at any point I can fix an error or mistake. Ever on my shotgun press's I can stop and do a do over at any time! recently got a set of dies for that ammo that go in my Rock Chucker!

What kind of size die do you have that will not allow the de-prime rod to be removed?