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Thread: Light rust in bore

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy
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    The Outlaw Kid has put me on to the LA awesome cleaner. It has been very effective for me. I mostly shoot pyrodex with very corrosive home made percussion caps. I clean with this stuff and use Ballistal to finish up. No rust with this. Room temp tap water only.
    n.h.schmidt

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy TheOutlawKid's Avatar
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    Mr.n.h. schmidt, thanks for taking my advice! Worth the dollar huh?

  3. #83
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'll say! Worth a buck. My next best is window cleaner with ammonia.
    n.h.schmidt

  4. #84
    Boolit Buddy
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    I don’t subscribe to the the belief that petroleum based anything in my bore is bad. I use OE black powder with mink oil as patch lube. I clean and dry with hot soapy water and cotton patches until the last patch is not marked. Then I run a wet patch of Barricade through and coat the bore.

    I dry patch to make sure there’s no oil in the bore before shooting the next time of course. Long story short, I never have any rust or residue on the dry patch before the next shooting session. Rust is much worse for a bore than a light coat of rust inhibitor, that is wiped out before its shot.

  5. #85
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    Quote Originally Posted by jjarrell View Post
    I donít subscribe to the the belief that petroleum based anything in my bore is bad. I use OE black powder with mink oil as patch lube. I clean and dry with hot soapy water and cotton patches until the last patch is not marked. Then I run a wet patch of Barricade through and coat the bore.

    I dry patch to make sure thereís no oil in the bore before shooting the next time of course. Long story short, I never have any rust or residue on the dry patch before the next shooting session. Rust is much worse for a bore than a light coat of rust inhibitor, that is wiped out before its shot.
    Petroleum + carbon = asphalt
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Petroleum + carbon = asphalt
    Agreed. Asphalt + bore = Bad.

    However, Barricade doesn’t stay wet. But it does keep rust from forming in your bore. An alcohol patch, followed by dry before shooting and the bore is clear. No asphalt. Lol.

    I wouldn’t use it if the patches came out anything but white. After that, the beeswax and mink oil keeps everything all slickery.
    Last edited by jjarrell; 01-07-2020 at 07:54 PM.

  7. #87
    I use hot water and a brush followed by patches to dry the bore. I mix a tablespoon of Arm an Hammer washing soda in a quart of hot water and add a tablespoon of kerosene to the mix. I can clean the gun several times with this mix.
    After cleaning I dry the bore with dry patches.
    Then I run a lightly greased patch back and forth in the bore to spread a thin coat.
    Just regular gun grease. I follow that with a lightly saturated patch of gun oil.Rub that one back and forth on a cleaning rod. Then one tight fitting patch on a jag just the way the bullet goes thru. Inspect the bore and that's it. I use a pull thru jag for Winchester 94's for the final stroke.
    I never had any rust yet. Guns used in winter can suffer from condensation causing rust after cleaning. I always like to inspect them once every week after cleaning. I inspect the bore and run a patch thru. Sometimes another application of cleaner and ready and regrease.
    Of course if you own a gun safe with a dehumidifier running 24-7, you probably clean it and oil it and lock it in the stable.
    Ideally, all guns should be stored that way, but I spent my safe money on a couple more guns.
    Anyway, handling your guns and checking the bore a couple times a week apart after shooting and cleaning is the least a conscientious gun owner should do. When you check, always run a clean patch thru the bore. There are things the eye to the bore can't see, but a patch is a better tell I think.

  8. #88
    Boolit Buddy TheOutlawKid's Avatar
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    I use Barricade without issue in all my black powder guns. Of course its not used as a lube...just a rust prevention coat, a very thin light coat. I love the stuff, one of the best ive ever used to prevent rust.

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy TheOutlawKid's Avatar
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    I once used mink oil from track of the wolf by instelf and in many different lube mixes...works great as a bullet lube but not as a rust preventer/metal protectant. I used it as arbor lube and all around lube and rust preventer and it always caused a wet rust that mixed with the mink oil. By itself or in mixes it always caused some brown slick gunk that smelt like rust and stained any fabric it touched, washing didnt clean the fabrics either. I really wanted to use it but no matter what it always left that rust film behind, although the rust never caused damage to the metal or seem to "stick" to the metal i still decided on not using mink oil...and if i were to use it as a bullet/patch lube either by itself or in a wax mix...id definately clean the gun very well to get every last bit of it off my guns when i cleaned them and definitely before storage. Now for arbor lube i mainly use a mix of mobil 1 synthetic grease mixed with a little lanolin and canola oil...which suprises me that it hasnt gone rancid over time due to the canola oil. Ive also used the same mix without the mobil 1 synthetic grease...just lanolin with a little canola oil, works great and actually keeps rust away and keeps the cylinder moving after so many shots. Good stuff.

  10. #90
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba.50 View Post
    try replacin' the WD-40 with 91% alcohol for water removal after cleanin' followed by a few dry patches & replace the bore-butter with Birchwood-Casey Barricade for storage lubrication/bore-protection purposes.
    This. Since starting the use of Barricade.................no rust returns.
    "What makes you think I care" ........High Plains Drifter

    Rick C.

  11. #91
    Boolit Mold The Old Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aarolar View Post
    After a thorough cleaning of my hawken and letting it sit a few days I always have a slight bit of rust in the bore. My regimen includes a thorough swabbing with the breech end in a bucket of water till I get clean patches. Then I pull it out and swab it a few more times for good measure. WD40 soaking then let it drip upside down for a few then swab the excess WD out and finish with a well saturated patch of bore butter. This is after sitting a week or so after this regimen.


    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    I don't think what you are getting on the cleaning patch is really rust. Oftentimes the patchlube/conical lube isn't removed during regular cleaning, and as it burns during repeat firings that which your patch is showing is the result.

    Some call it seasoning, but reguardless, it burns after a while. Eventually it can effect accuracy. Getting it out is nettlesome. I've heard tell that 91% alcohol can loosen it for removal, and T/C suggested the elimination of petroleum based cleaners because they hinder the seasoning process of their Natural Lube, but very tight patches on a cleaning jag, (I double patch in my 54) will get a lot of it out by dry patching between the hot soapy water, and clean hot water rinse, then to dry.

    Does it make a difference? Not all the time, so, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

    One more thing, you may have heard that the "seasoning" can hinder accuracy, and a few gunsmiths have made a little money cleaning it out......now you know why.

  12. #92
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    I'm starting to think that color is from the WD40. That's the color it turns when it oxidizes a bit. With that little bit of discoloration showing, I wouldn't even worry about it.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  13. #93
    Boolit Master
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    I wonder if there are any places or facilities, let's call them retreats, yea a retreat. A nice place where one could take a loved one or a friend to a structured, secure place. Professional guidance to help them find another source for their displacement issues and help them get of the WD.
    .

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