weaver scope

[porthos]

i just fitted a accumount base and rings to a enfield mk-4 (savage mfgr.) unfortunately there is NO,0,NADA, adjustment of the cast unit. after installing the 2 base pieces that go on the left side of the reciever; the cast unit screws to it with only the 2 "caps" to hold down the scope. the 2 bsaes are "self centering" they go where they go , no choices for that. hence , the problem. my weaver k-3 vintage scope ; after using the bore sighter is a couple feet low . i have used .025 shims under the rear of the scope and come close to vertical center. the problem is i have run out of "vertical clicks". to the best of my knowledge i'm stuck. i e-mailed cheryl at optical services to see if the elevation can be changed inside the scope; but haven't heard back yet. anyone know if this option can be done?? i'm not going to bother to change scopes at this time because the problem is with the mount. am i disappointed with the mount @ over $240.00 . what do you think. i woun't even go into the installation problems. i'll save that for another thread

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Interesting post. I just finished rehabbing a bubba-ized No.4 Mk. I. This one is unknown manufacturer as it's covered over with black paint. First, based on past good experiences, I purchased and installed a B-Square brand mount. This makes use of the two holes left when the rear peep sight is removed to secure the back of the mount, and the ejector screw in the left side of the receiver wall to secure the front of the mount. They supply a new, longer ejector screw to compensate for the thickness of the mount, and in my case on this particular rifle it proved too long. One can cut it down, but instead I tried using a very small washer to take up some additional thickness and it seemed to work well. Although it's a nice rifle it didn't seem like one I wanted to spend $500 for on a scope, so I purchased a Tasco Pronghorn 3-9X from Midway, on sale for $39.99 delivered.
Took this rig to the range and the scopes's reticle lasted for 30 shots using a load of a 165 gr. CLRN over 18 gr. of 2400, then leaned over to the side and died. When I was taking it off to send in for warranty repair I found that the front of the mount had become a little loose. Meanwhile I had found ATI's scope mount and was regretting not having purchased it, as it is lower to the bore and does not use the ejector screw for attachment. All in all, it is a superior mount. It is slightly windage adjustable at the rear, being a bit narrower than the area in which it is mounted and can be adjusted a bit from side to side. Either of these mount options cost well under $50. You could get additional (quite a bit, actually) of windage adjustment by using the windage adjustable model of Millet scope rings. So between an ATI mount and some Millet rings I think you could solve your windage problems. As for the elevation, if your scope is shooting low, wouldn't you want to shim the front ring? I'd try centering the elevation adjustment by running the clicks all the way down, then all the way up while counting them (let's make it easy and say that there's 100 clicks), then back down half way (50 clicks) which would give you the center. Then put shims under the front ring until the crosshairs are raised to the desired location. In extreme cases you can use, as an example, a low rear ring and a medium height front ring. This doesn't work like the rear sight on an iron sighted rifle where you gain elevation by moving the sight upward. You're dealing with just one focal point, and have to move the front ring upward. Or, so I seem to remember.

[porthos]

i removed a CAD-TECHNIK mount from the gun because it was too high even with the "sniper" cheek piece added. i didn't like resting my chin on the cheek piece. there are many "no gunsmithing required" mounts for military rifles out there. i bought this because it is probably the lowest out there; and, because it duplicates the original sniper mount. it looks like it is supposed to with a short low power scope. frankly for around $240.00 i thought i was getting the best of the best. not so; i got something that can't be adjusted in any way. it does look proper though. when i go to the range i'll just put it in the gun rack and let people admire it. tell them i forgot to bring ammo

[pietro]

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It sounds like the sidemount base might have been mis-fitted................

The position (zero) of the elevation range "window" is regulated by the vertical positioning of the screws holding the base to the receiver sidewall, and a very small difference will result in a much wider difference in the POI - so it IS rocket science ! .

(0.001" of scope movement will cause about one minute of angle of scope reticle movement on the target.)

FWIW, after I D/T for only the sidemount base's front (or rear) screw, I install the scope/rings into the mount & clamp it to the receiver side, then boresight the combo via shifting the front or rear of the base (depending upon whether I D/T for the front or rear base screw) up/down to align the POI with the POA.

Only after the boresighting is completed do I actually D/T the receiver for the 2nd screw (and 3rd or 4th screwhole if the mount has more than 2 base screws).

I would suggest that you first rotate your scope so that the elevation turret become the windage turret & vice-versa, since some scopes are made with a wider adjustment range in one of the turrets.

Failing that, as sad as it would be (Swiss-cheesing the receiver), I would WAG that your easiest solution would be to redeux the D/T'ing by filling all the mounting screwholes except for either the most forward or rearward screw, clamp & boresight as above.


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[porthos]

pietro:
thanks ; good info. unfortunately (my friend reminded me that it is a post recticule) so, turning the scope won't work. before i "swiss cheese" the reciever; i'm going to the range and put it on paper. this enfield is close to impossible to bore sight. best case, it will center closer on paper. if all this fails i'll probably take a cylindrical grinding wheel to the bottom of the front ring. if that gets me high enough; i'll clean everything up and epoxy the ring for a unifofm fit.

[flounderman]

You know weaver makes a side mount that is a lot cheaper?

[porthos]

i really don't care about "cheaper". i took off a cheaper mount. my plan was to get a period correct mount that was as low as possible. this i did. do i regret spending this much money; no, i do regret not planning ahead before mounting the bases. Pietro was very informative in his thread; and i may have to go that route. there are NO instructions with the mount. had there been instructions that adressed potential problems; there would not have been a problem. i will fix this and keep everyone appraised

[Mr Humble]

SK Mounts in PA makes a fine overbore SMLE mount. Yes you need to raise the comb (as was done on real No.4 snipers).

[beemer]

I had a Weaver base installed on my #4, it is D&T and sets on the receiver ring and the charging bridge. It takes tip-off mount like a 22 , the Millet windage adj. rings work well. I made a cheek piece similar to the sniper #4. The rig has been on that rifle for over 20 years and had no problems. I use an old Japanese WC 3x9 that I bought used about 1990 and still works perfect.

I don't hunt much any more, but I got it out to check it over and decided to shoot it a little this week. Guess I'am getting old because it seemed heavier than it used to be.

The S&K mount works very well if you want a no D&T mount.

Dave